VW Super Beetle

To adjust the tow in and tow out you must adjust the tie rods. You must first break loose the nut then twist the tie rod until the right adjustment has been made.

There is a steel tube inside your hump in the floor. The clutch cable runs through it from the pedals to the rear of the car. It is welded to secure it from moving inside the tunnel. When one of these mounts breaks loose, you'll hear a popping sound when you push the clutch. you might also feel the pop through the pedal.

wire into the tail lights at the back of the car

i own a 1973 super beetle and when i bought it i had the same problem. we fixed it by replacing the speedometer cable on it. the cable runs from the front, driver-side tire and goes in to the back of the gauge it gets a little tough unless you have tiny hands but that fixed it for me.

Use a feeler gauge to set the point gap at .016.

.016 inches using a feeler gauge, 50 degrees dwell on a dwell meter using a 4 cylinder scale plus or minus 2 degrees (8 cylinder scale set at 25 degrees plus or minus 2). If the dwell is too high the points are too far closed. A dwell meter is by far the best method, but the feeler gauge is good to get you in the ballpark with new points.

More-likey-than-not it is a bad ground. Check your ground wire for rust or corrosion, clean and replace.

remove all carb (it makes life easier) remove the screws thea hold the cylender tins to the dog house also thereis a screw on each side. the dg house should be loose remove the hood and brackets remove alt strap and wires pull dog house streight up and tada

the fuel gauge is incorporated inside the speedo meter in the super bug.

The upper pulley is a two piece setup. There are shims that you use to widen up or narrow down the gap between the two halves of the upper pulley on the Alt/Gen. Too tighten, you take the nut off the outer pulley and there should be a few shims between the nut and the pulley. Put them down for now and take the outer pulley off and there should be a few shims in between the halves. Depending on how loose the belt is you start taking the shims out one by one until the belt is tight. Then you put the extra shims and add them to the others that were already on the outside and retighten the nut. It may take a few tries to get it right. If you can't get the belt tight then either the belt is worn out or the wrong on is on it.

Get the Bentley manual as you will need it for future answers.

The auto stick transmission you are speaking of still shifts like a manual. The gears are moved around slightly so check your ash tray for the shifting patern. start the vehicle in neutral with your foot on the brake slide the shifter into low and let go of the shifter. when you release you should feel the clutch slightly engage. Release the brake and slowly step on the gas and your off. You can shift into the higher gears simply by letting off the gas and moving the shifter to the desired point.

If it will not open, your door may be jammed by a sagging body pan. You'll notice that your running boards have long since rotted off and your heater hasn't worked for a long time.

Chock, jack and block the car up at the passenger rear. Scrooch under the car and slide under the the engine end at the front of the car. Look up. At the 2 O'clock position you'll see the starter bolted to the tranny adapter.

VEHICLE: 1968 VOLKSWAGEN Beetle

Standard 560-15 155R15 Radial Recommendation: 165R15

DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (but NOT DOT 5, which is silicone brake fluid) can be used in your car.

Gasoline.

I know, this sounds a little flippant...but I remember being almost out of gas on payday and COMPLETELY out of money--so I put the gas for the weedeater (which had two-stroke oil mixed into it) in my car and drove to work. It smoked some, but for some strange reason the car ran better after I did it.

Of course, when I got home the first question was "where's all the gas for the weedeater?" but it got me to work so I'm not complaining.

Use regular gasoline in your 1971 VW beetle.

Handbrake on a '71 VW bug, is frozen? !) the botton on the handlever is frozen, stopping the disengagement of the lock cam, so oil the rubber seal around the botton and push down harder, as rust is holding it back inside the tube. 2) the handlevel is rusted to the pin and pin is rusted to the sidewall frame, so oil everything there and tap with hammer until it loosens up. 3) most likely one or both the emergency brake cables running from the e-brake handle to the brake shoes are seized. If so, the cable(s) need to be replaced. Remove one of the 'C' clips from the pin and push out the pin. This will

VW Started out with only beetles, but they have made many cars over the years...so here goes: Beetle Polo- mk1-5 Derby Type 3 Type 4 K70 Passat-mk1-6 Karmann Ghia- type 34 Ghia- Ghia Convertible scirocco 1 Type 181 VW-Porsche 914 Lupo Fox Golf-mk1-6 Jetta-mk 1-5 Vento Bora Corrado Golf Cabriolet-Mk1-3 Eos Touran Sharan Tiguan Touareg Rabbit Dasher Microbus Quantum Phaeton Rabbit Convertible- cabriolet-cabrio Vanagon-Eurovan Routon hope this is helpful, //j.

With your trunk open, look in the upper right corner behind the speedometer. It will be the center relay. (Probably a black plastic cube although some are round) The one on the left is for the low beam on the headlights. The one on the right is a buzzer.

Impact gun/wrench and a puller

2 places: On the drivers side dash, (look through the windshield), and also under the rear seat, stamped on the transmission hump. These should match, which if they don't, tells you there has been some modification to the car. If they don't match, it's not a huge deal. When there were more Bugs in junkyards than there are now, a lot of people faced with rotting floorpans would buy a Bug with a bad body and good floorpans from a junkyard, then put their old body on the chassis. If you have a car like this and want that extra bit of authenticity, paint the fenders, doors, hood and trunk lid all different colors.

get a wiring diagram-- they are everywhere online