VW Super Beetle

if both are bad, then you need to check fuses. above left knee.

if that is good, then your combo switch is bad (for head lights) and is real expensive

up to $900

so find a used one at the wreckers, if it is bad.

the switch can be tested by hot wiring it.

you need a schematic for that , so go to the library (public) and it is there

in the e-sources of the data base.

under chiltions and mitchels.

Ours is under the back seat, driver's side

For a 1973 Super Beetle the reservoir is located under the front hood on the drivers side. The two lines that exit the reservoir are for your dual master cylinder. One line fills the front and the other the rear brake lines.

Ask 10 different people and you'll get 10 different answers. Any name-brand to be safe.

The book says 30w but you can use the newer multi weight oils. 10w30 is fine or if you have a warmer climate most of the year then you could get away with 10w40.

You should not go by the tire manufacturer's sidewall information. Their tests are run under different conditions than your specific vehicle.

Instead, you should read the owner's manual of your vehicle or the door jamb on the driver's side where it mentions the vehicle manufacturer's recommended tire pressure. (Provided you replaced your tires with ones properly designated for your vehicle.)

You need a piece of hose that will fit over the bleeder nipples, a jar, a couple quarts of brake fluid plus a small bottle of it, a 7mm wrench, preferably a set of jackstands and tools to remove the wheels, and a second person.

Here's how I work: I jack the car up, put it on four jackstands and take the wheels off. This makes it a lot easier to get in there. I start at the right rear wheel--go from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest to it. Adjust all four of the brakes until the shoes are touching the drums. Once all this is done, put the hose over the nipple on the right rear brake, put the other end in the jar with about two inches of brake fluid at the bottom of it, put your 7mm wrench on the nipple, and put the second person in the driver's seat. Get down next to the brake and yell PUMP real loud. Your second pumps the brakes ten times and holds down the pedal, then yells PUMPED. You open the nipple for just a couple of seconds and some air will come out of the hose. Then do it again. After every four or five times, put a little more brake fluid in the brake fluid tank with the small bottle. (It's almost impossible to put brake fluid into the tank from a quart bottle, but you can with the little ones.) Keep doing this until no more air comes out of the hose. Then refill the tank, go to the next wheel and start all over again. I always go around the car twice just to make sure.

It should be in the fuse panel in the luggage area near the fire wall.

A Super Beetle with a manual transmission has four forward gears and one reverse. A Super Beetle with an Autostick transmission has three forward and one reverse.

They should interchange, the doors are identical and the hinges are the same.

If the engine that came with it is in it, it's a 1600cc dual-port engine with a 34mm Solex carburetor.

Your transmission does use lube oil. It takes a thicker oil like 75w90 or 90w140 and NOT automatic transmission fluid.

Someone put one on it.

If you need to replace the one that's in there--they go bad because they're cardboard--open the front hood. Right above the gas tank there may be a metal plate that goes all the way across. If there is one, remove it--it is held on with a lot of screws and mastic, so you have to pry it off. The glovebox is held on with a metal strap. Undo the strap, remove the old glovebox, put the new one where the old once was...for the rest, "installation is the reverse of removal."

Whatever 3 quarts of oil and a "Beetle oil gasket kit" costs in your area. About $20+- US?

2.cip1.com usually has pretty good prices. Buy the oil locally tho.

Back in 1970 all engine controls were done by mechanical means. The answer is no, there is no PCM on a 1970 VW Beetle.

Well for starters, the 'New Beetle' has the engine located in the wrong place. ;-) It's in front, not in back like the original Bugs. Other key differences are that the New Beetle is water vs. air cooled on the older cars. The new model also has many modern day amenities, the classic Bugs were fairly minimalistic in design.

Yes. '74 or '75 is when Super's changed to a curved windshield.

By the description I'll guess what you're experiencing is a "backfire". This happens when the timing in the engine is off for whatever reason. When this happens the intake valve is not yet closed when the spark plug fires. The air/fuel mixture is ignited and the burning / expanding mixture goes back up the intake manifold to the carburetor with a loud bang.

Inspect and clean your distributor and give your ignition system the once over. Set your timing and it should take care of the problem. If not then the engine has other issues that are more involved to go over here.

5w30 if you live in a cooler climate or time of year, 10w40 if you live in a hotter climate or time of year, 30w if you can't decide.

Pick your favorite brand.

A clunking noise in the front suspension of a 2002 VW Beetle at low speeds, especially over small bumps, can often be attributed to worn strut mounts or bushings, even if everything appears visually fine. The "floating upper strut mount" means it may not be securely fixed, allowing some movement that can create a clunking sound. It’s advisable to have a thorough inspection, focusing on the strut mounts, control arm bushings, and other related components. If the noise persists, further investigation may be necessary to identify any underlying issues.

It is where the tow hook threads in.

Because your timing's too retarded. You're probably running REAL hot too.

You can time your engine one of two ways, and you need a timing light for either--the "static" timing light John Muir talks about is no good for a 1600 engine. If you've got the stock pulley you'll find a notch in it. It aligns with the seam in the case--they put in the offset you need because the correct timing is 5 degrees BTDC. If you've got a degree wheel, you want the 0 line to be to the left of the seam.

Once you've done that, reach up to the throttle lever on the carb and jerk it toward you. No I'm not kidding--grab it and give it a hard yank. If the engine has a lag between you yanking and it accelerating, you need to tweak the timing a little.

The 2006 Volkswagen New Beetle (often referred to as the Super Beetle, though that term traditionally refers to earlier models) typically uses a specific type of coolant known as G12 or G12+, which is a pink or purple ethylene glycol-based antifreeze. It's important to avoid mixing different types of coolants, as this can lead to corrosion or other issues. Always consult the owner's manual for the most accurate specifications and recommendations for your particular vehicle.