Air-Cooled VW

just replace it with a regular 12volt starter motor . 1 have a 1600 126a in my 59 Canadian standard beetle. great motor , got it out of a sprat coupe.

If you're standing at the back of the car, or you're at the pulley end of an uninstalled engine, it's at the flywheel end of the engine on the right side. Number two is on the right side at the pulley end. Number three is at the flywheel end on the left side, and number four is on the left side at the pulley end.

There are two major numbers on a Volkswagen engine. The first is the engine serial, which is stamped on the boss for the generator stand. It will read something like "AE 4225147." (The most important part of that is the letter or letters at the beginning of the serial number. There's a breakout of these letter groups in John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"--and he also lists the timing for each engine series.) The other, which you found, is the part number. 043 101 101a is a dual-port 1600cc engine--which dates from 1970 until end of production. Also, year of production really doesn't matter on a Type 1 engine since once VW designed an engine, they didn't change the way it was made.

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Raising the ride height of the front suspension is best accomplished by installing adjusters to the torsion housing, or buying a torsion housing (front beam) with adjusters already installed. These adjusters and modified torsion housings (front beams) are available from numerous VW parts sources.

There are three parts to the pedal--the pedal itself, the thing it pushes on and the cable coming out the back of it.

The pedal is real easy to install because it's held in with a metal rod that sticks through two bent-up places on the floor. You pull the rod out, take out the old pedal, put the new one in and replace the rod.

The thing it pushes on is the "pedal cluster." The brake and clutch pedals are part of it. To get this out you gotta jack up the car and unhook the clutch cable from the transmission, then open the engine cover and unhook the accelerator cable from the carb. The cluster is held to the car by two bolts which go into the tunnel. Remove them both, then work the clutch arm out through the hole it goes into. (While you're there, look at the end of the clutch cable and at the clutch arm. If either of them looks questionable, replace it now because floating the gears to get home is not fun.)

The cable you replace by removing the pedal cluster, pulling the old cable out, pushing the new one in and reattaching it at both ends. Make sure you get a cable for a carbureted car. The ones for fuel injected cars will work but they're too long.

The firing order, or "zundfolge," of your engine is 1 - 4 - 3 - 2.

This is ideally a three-person job.

Person 1 is going to sit in the car and work the brake pedal. Person 1 needs to be a driver so he or she knows what a good solid-feeling brake pedal is like.

Person 2 is going to stand next to the front of the car and add brake fluid to the reservoir as needed.

Person 3 is you.

Go to the store and get some 7mm fuel hose, two quarts of DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, a 7mm box-end wrench and a jar. You should have jackstands, a jack, tire changing tools and so on.

You jack up the car and put it on four jackstands after you loosened the lug nuts.

You take off the wheel farthest from the master cylinder--right rear.

You look behind the brake and you should see a weird looking silver bolt thing sticking out. This is the bleeder valve. Put the wrench on it. Shove one end of the hose over the tip of the bleeder valve, and put the other end in the jar, covered in brake fluid.

Tell Person 1 that when you yell "pump" he or she is to pump the brake pedal real fast about 10 times, hold it down and yell "ready." Also tell Person 1 that when "ready" is yelled, his/her brake foot is going to sink to the floor right after that and that's okay.

Now go back to the right rear wheel, get down there, grab the wrench, make sure the hose is IN brake fluid (and that it hasn't gotten above the brake fluid in the jar at all), and yell "pump." When you hear "ready," open the bleeder valve by turning the wrench counterclockwise for a couple of seconds then close it by turning the wrench clockwise. The first time you do this, you should get a huge gush of air out of the hose. Do it a few more times, until you don't see air come out of the hose when you open the valve.

When that one's bled, bleed the left rear, then the right front, and finally the left front. It's best to bleed the whole brake system rather than just the rears, but if you insist you can bleed the rears alone. (If you have a 1966 or earlier you have to bleed the whole system because all four wheel cylinders are on the same brake circuit. In 1967 they changed it so the fronts and rears are on different circuits.)

the year could be from any were from August 1960 to July 1965. its very hard to tel try looking for a letter before the first digit of the serail number.

However, if you go to "TheSamba.com" and click on the "Technical" tab at the top right of the page; they have a fairly complete listing of all Volkswagen-issued Chassis, Engine and Transmission serial numbers for air-cooled VWs going back to the early '50's.

If the serial plate on your engine has been riveted onto it, then it's probably a factory rebuild--and it may have been rebuilt to accept the installation of parts designed for use in other engines ( it's fairly common to find older 1200 cc engines that have been bored out to accept larger crankshafts).

Best guess is that your engine has been rebuilt using one of Volkswagen's stock blocks, that originally owned a serial number that began: "AD 397589"

This is a two-part answer.

If your car has stock fenders, I would stick with standard 165R15 tires because anything much wider will rub.

You can get fiberglass fenders for Bugs that will let you put any width tire you want on there.

Yes you can install an AC on a vintage VW Beetle. However, If it has the stock motor in it (probably 1500 cc) I would not recomend it without taking other precautions to help keep the engine cool. You will also lose a lot of horsepower (take off and running power not to mention fuel mileage) if you make this addition. It has been many years since I was into VWs but I believe the 1600 cc is something like 53 horsepower but don't qoute me. I have slept a lot since the early 90's and just don't remember for sure. I would recomend picking up one of the VW mags from a store sometime. There used to be two "VW Trends" and "Hot VWs". If I remember right, VW Trends had the most helpful information and less women in string bikinis. You will be able to find plenty of places that will sell you an aftermarket AC to install on your VW. They probably have covered it at some point in one of the magazines also. You can order backorder issues from them that have all of the info you are looking for.

5mm. Any car parts place has this, but be sure you get fuel hose not vacuum hose.

"9-million" motors were late 1965, equivalent to the "D" 1200 (40 SAE HP). This one was produced in January of `65, and it could've been used in either a Beetle or a Transporter. It had the best 40HP heads ever made and insert cam bearings (earlier 1200s had the cam running directly against the case) and 1.1:1 rockers rather than 1:1. Both the head stud and pushrod lengths are slightly different than those of earlier 40HP engines.

It's possible to use an ACVW engine case as a basis for configurations other than what it originated as by machining the cylinder spigot openings; a 9_________ or "D" 1200 becomes essentially identical to an "F" 1300 or "H0" 1500 case.

I've got 3 Chilton's manuals from over the years, some are better than others:

"Chilton's Repair & Tune-Up Guide for the Volkswagen 1949-1971", first published in 1971, sixth printing 1973

This one is hard bound, with thick stiff pages, and has incredibly detailed and well shaded hand drawn exploded parts views and cutaway views at just about every turn, right down to individual washers, with every part labelled.

"Chilton's Repair & Tune-Up Guide Volkswagen 1949-1971", first published in 1971, revised in 1974, thirty-fifth printing 1994

This one is paperback, slightly smaller than the first, with slightly less durable pages. The exploded views have been shrunk a little, and are harder to make out. The ink is much darker, so a lot of the subtle shading in the drawings is missing.

"Chilton Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1949-1969 Repair Manual", Copyright 1997,2007 (your guess as to what printing, doesn't say)

Larger than the first two, paperback, and the pages are practically newsprint. The exploded views have been replaced by black and white pictures which don't have a tenth the detail of the exploded parts views in the other two.

Push down and pull the shifter to the drivers seat. Otherwise you may have an issue with your tran. Mine will go in Reverse but not stay there for long. They tell me it could be a little bar in there that is bent or i may need to replace the gear.

also check your shift rod bushing.

It is cheap to replace couple bucks and does amazing things for your shifting.

I am unable to find a "WA" engine serial number listed. Please clean off number and look closer, might be a "WO" with 6 digits following it.

That's not a serial number but rather a part number--the part number for the whole engine. It could be any year.

You have a Type 4 motor--your bus is at least a 1972, right? A Volkswagen part number has three subgroups. I don't know what the S1 12 stuff is...could be the aluminum alloy VW used, or the mold this case came out of, or whatever. First subgroup: the car the part was originally used in. This one's weird because Volkswagen never built a car called a 401. I think this is probably a two-liter engine, which was introduced after the Type 4 was discontinued. But they can't put a "211" number on it, because the engine is a "Type 4" engine, so someone just pulled a number out of the air. Second subgroup: functional area. The first digit reports the "main product group"--1 for engines, 3 for transmissions...there are nine subgroups. The figure zero will never start this group. The last two digits report what item in the subgroup the part is--01 is the complete thing, 98 is a repair parts kit. 101 means it's the whole engine. Third subgroup: the actual part number. 101 is just the first one of these they made. Just call me the Fount of Useless Knowledge.

All aircooled VWs have the same firing order: 1-4-3-2

The easiest way, and probably the cheapest by the time you're done, is to buy an alternator conversion kit. Because 1967 is the first year of the 12v system, IF your car was 12v from the factory (look in the driver's doorjamb for a "12v" sticker) you won't have to change the radio, bulbs and battery.

go to document buzz . com or L-wiring diagrams.pdf

The type I Beetle engine was used in the VW bus (with slight mods) from 1950 to 1971. In 1972, the bus received the new type IV engine, although certain counrties continued to use the type I Beetle motor.

So yes. Check your flywheel to ensure it is the correct one.

1966 type 1 were either 1194cc which was 77mm with 2.5mm top and oil ring1300 was also 77mm but with 2mm top and oil scraper ring

1500 was 83mm with 2mm top and scraper.

However, you need to pull the engine apart and measure because you never know what has been done to it.

The "automatic gearbox" Volkswagen used to put in Beetles is an "autostick" transmission. It has a three-speed manual transmission connected to a vacuum-operated clutch and a torque converter. There's no clutch pedal but you still have to shift it.

Unfortunately, at this point the only place you will be able to find the factory OEM type of spring is from the dealer (maybe), or from an auto salvage yard.

When removing the old springs it is usually easier and cheaper to take the whole hinge and spring as an assembly.

HOWEVER...

If you aren't fixated on having the original type springs on your hood hinge (ie; restoration) you can do as I did and use gas struts.

These are available at most auto stores as replacement items for later model vehicles.

The trick is finding the correct length and strength

The length is easy, as all you need to do is measure from the eye hole on each end of the spring.

You would rather the length be 1/4" too long, than 3/4" too short, but not more than 1/4" or the preload will be too great, and bend the hood as you try to close it.

Which brings you to the second tricky part.

Most of the time the strut will be set for the heavier hood or hatchback weight. Bear this in mind when searching for the replacement. Usually this will not be a problem, but you need to be aware of it. I did find a set that was too strong and had to get another of the same length that was "loaded" for a lighter weight.

I can't tell which to use for you application because of the different manufacturers and I was replacing them on a '66 bug, which I was (am) customizing, and I am using a fiberglass hood.

When installing the new struts you will merely have to drill and remove the upper rivet/pin and unclip the lower pin.

Use quality hardware and it's a straight forward installation.

It looks pretty sharp too..