Car Stalling Problems

To start with, you will have to determine if it loses spark or fuel when it quits. With GM's track record with fuel pumps, I would suspect a faulty fuel pump.

Could have a large vacuum leak. Give us more info about the car like the year, make, model and engine.

You are not getting fuel. Possible causes are fuel pump, fuel filter, wiring to fuel pump, fuel injectors, wiring to injectors, computer,

If it's stalling while driving, it could be the problem with either the crankshaft positioning sensor or mass air flow sensor. Check to see if you have a check engine light on. If so, you need to retrieve the code from auto parts store. Only then you will be able to find out the actual problem.

There are specific chemical sprays that are designated for use on a teflon coated throttle body, not to be confused with carb cleaner. You will need to remove the plastic air intake going in to the throttle body, then just spray it in (engine off, follow the directions on the can). Any questions on how to remove the parts can be answered with a haynes or chiltons manual, if you own a car without a warranty, you should own one of those books.

Replacing spark plugs can help stop engine stalling if the current plugs are worn or fouled, as they are crucial for proper ignition. However, stalling can also be caused by other issues, such as fuel delivery problems, air intake issues, or sensor malfunctions. It's important to diagnose the root cause of the stalling to ensure that simply replacing the plugs will resolve the issue. Regular maintenance and inspection can help identify and fix potential problems before they lead to stalling.

torque converter can cause this. you will have bucking and stalling. another thing it can be ( I know this to be true as it happened to me) is the cat converter.

That is a code for 'Front O2 sensor open or short.' This could be as simple as a loose or bad wiring connection at the front O2 wire harness, a problem with one of the fuel injectors, an intake air leak or even low fuel pressure. If you are having higher than normal fuel consumption and smoke at exhaust, possibly the O2 sensor is dead. The front heated oxygen sensor (or O2 sensor 1) is placed into the exhaust manifold. It detects the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas compared to the outside air. If you're confident with working on your engine, change this sensor, if not -best take it to a reliable place and have an engine analysis.

also it might have a little lose of power when running but no signs of ever trying to stall when it is rolling just when its stopped in neutral.

allows for the thermostat to always be open never fully completely shutting close. The old ones closed complete, then hoses blew, now you get the trickle and warning you have a problem.

The jiggle valve is a big help in bleeding air when filling an empty system.

Commercial truck automotik transmission screen is not working

I am no mechanic, but I had the same problem on my 95 Ford Taurus SHO. My car would just shut down while I was driving and turn on for awhile after it shut off. After looking around, I found out it was the crankshaft positioning sensor. I changed it out, and that fixed the problem. I suggest to look online taking to consideration your make and model of your vehicle.

time to get a watch! :)

It is located in the front of the engine on the cylinder head. It's located on the passenger side of the vehicle.

You can be electrocuted from walk-in shower stalls if there is an accumulation of water in the bottom of the stall. Otherwise it is highly unlikely that you can be electrocuted.

There should be an EEC TEST connection in the engine compartment

somewhere near the battery / power distribution box ( EEC IV / OBD I )

yes it will

Could be several reasons but most importantly, get the car checked out soon. If you are smelling exhaust inside the car you could get sick or worse.

you may nee to check the alignment of your tires...that would cause a car to drift to a certin side

Fuel starvation. Blocked air/fuel filters. Fuel pump delivery rate wrong or carburetor needle valve stuck.

you will proberley find the vehicle has either a misfire or air intake leak(petrol engine)/vacc pipe , i can only go as deep as the question appears, in a nut shell the question needs to be more in depth.

Your car will not overheat because you still got water in it. You might want to check your oil. The light indicate that the car is either low or out of lubricating oil, please do not run your car yet, check and add oil first.

Sounds like the engine is getting too much fuel. That may sound odd, but that is what happens during cold or first start. For example the old carburetor choke. The butter fly restricts air intake, which forces a richer fuel mixture. Fuel injection is computer controlled, so the computer allows more fuel to be injected. Is your car smoking black or dark gray? Is their a strong smell of gas after it stalls? Assuming your vehicle is carbureted. If so more than likely it is getting more fuel than is needed. If it is cdarburete the air fuel screws at the bottom of the carburetor need to be adjusted ( clock wise or turned to the right if I remember correctly) This should decrease the amount of fuel entering the jets. Your probably getting pretty bad mileage!

I have a mechanic buddy who is good at finding vacuum leaks. He takes a high flash point solvent and spray it around on the intake. Near vacuum lines and around the intake mating area. Use the little red tube for accuracy in spraying. Spray a little at a time, with the engine running. You will notice the engine RPM's will come up when it sucks the solvent in the motor. Feeding the motor more fuel that is from the spray can. I'm sure he uses carburetor and/or injector cleaner in the spray can. Brand doesn't matter. Avoid the hot exhaust manifold at all costs. A sucking/hissing noise will be heard on bad vacuum leaks. Wiggling vacuum lines and gently pulling on them will make leaks surface too. If you see cracks, breaks, or severe dryness....Replace these line for best results.