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Car Stalling Problems
When your car’s engine stops when it’s in idle or is accelerating, then your car has stalled. Almost all stalling problems stem from poor fuel-gas mixture, out-of-tune fuel injection or fuel contaminants.
2,010 Questions
I don't see why it would be in the charging system(usually refered as electrical system). I would be suspicious of the ignition system, such as a ignition coil or ignition module. These are weakened when basic care sucha as plugs or wires are not changed. Post your results when you find out.
Quite possibly the fuel pump itself, I had a similar issue.
had same problem. replaced the coolant sensor. had to hook it up to a computer to find this out. it is a cheap brass part on top 10 min job
I had the same thing happen. Turns out it was a plugged fuel filter. Hope that helps.
I had something like this, and it turned out the main wire to the distributer cap had come loose at the other end.
I had the same problem and it would only occur occassionally, it would occur when I stopped at a light or stop sign after the van had been running continuously for a couple of hours. The O2 sensor was what was causing my van to suddenly die and then start back up a few moments later.
i had the same problem pretty much and i replaced my fuel filter and it ran fine.
Hard starts or stalls in the morning usually indicate a problem with the fuel system, because a couple special things need to happen at start up in order to get the car up and running.
If your car is carbureted, meaning the air and fuel are mixed together in a carburetor and then this mixture is injected into the cylinders, it uses a choke. When cold, the choke keeps a butterfly valve in the carburetor shut, creating a fuel mixture with lots of fuel and a little air. Then as the car warms up the choke slowly opens, allowing more and more air into the fuel mixture. In order to start with a cold engine a car requires a rich fuel mixture with more fuel than normal running requires, so if there is a problem with your choke its usually noticed when your car stalls after first starting it in the morning.
If your car is carbureted, I would try pumping the gas pedal a once or twice before you start it the first time. This will both reset the choke if it failed to do it on its own, and add a little extra gas to the cylinders to aid the cold start.
If your car is fuel injected, pumping the gas pedal once before starting it may help, but then it may not. Fuel injected systems perform the same functions as a carberator, but they do it all electronically, and are much more expensive to fix because they are far more complex.
Hope this helps!
1. Possible clogged fuel filter (located on the driver's side under the car in front of the rear wheel.2) Possible fuel pump problem: not enough pressue-output. Fuel pump is in the tank. Do not remove the tank completely...too many hoses. Put the car on ramps and disconnect the filler and vent hoses. There are four bolts holding the tank. Clean the top of the tank before removing the plate. The tank will hang down enought for you to get the Phillips head screws and pull out the pump assy.
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Thanks for your interest and help - oringial poster here. Turns out it was the Catalitic converter - once removed the car ran fine, but then had to be scraped for other reasons. Anyway - if you get similar issues it could be the cat...
Thanks again,
L
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More info:
Hi,
I have an S reg Rover 400 2 litre sli - only had it a couple of years, so don't know much of it's history.
It's been a great car, but last year I think something went wrong with the alternator - basically - the battery runs down every time I leave the car for a few hours with ignition off. I checked as much of the electrics as I can, and could find no where shorting out - and I hear that this engine can have rectifier issues - so had been guessing it could be this. Anyway I fixed this prob by simply removing one of the battery connectors every time I stop the car for a period. Bit of a pain, but been waiting to see if car will make it to next MOT - before getting it fixed, as am broke, and only use the car for long journey to family/friends - not for commuting, so rarely used.
Anyway - gave you the back story in case you think this could have any baring on the current issue.
Drove 5 hours to Devon on Friday from London. Car was fine.
Left parked and started to drive home on Sunday. Was struggling to accelerate fast, but seemed fine - just figured engine was cold, then about 30 minutes into journey as was picking up speed to hit motorway the engine seemed to lose all power. Stamping on clutch and taking foot off accelerator the engine seemed to go back to normal revs - so again I tried to pick up speed as road was clear. Again same thing happened. On hard shoulder - looked at rev counter and noticed that basically this happened when hit 3000rpm - so as a service station was 9 miles ahead I limped the car on there keeping it under 3000rpm (about 60mph - so was safe to be on m-way)
Got there and called AA - but they wouldn't come out until the car would not start/run - so drove at 60mph all the way home (amazing how good petrol consumption is at that speed)
Anyway, last night had to give my brother a lift and after warming up engine for a minute found that now wasn't letting me get above 1500rpm. Was late and he was going to miss last bus so limped it on again - but after a few minutes could get to 2000rpm with out cutting out, then be time was home again was going up to 3000 again.
Anyway - going to give it more of a look over tomorrow. So far with my limited knowledge I've loooked into the followin: does not seem to be oil in water, does not have water in oil - no excessive smoking - bit of a rattle to engine, but nothing major.
Any ideas? Change spark plugs? Air filter (was wondering if it wasn't getting enough air?)
Cheers, and let me know if I can provide any more info - and thanks for reading this far! I owe you one!
Crow
Hi
The first thing I would do is replace the fuel filter, which is cheap and you can probably do yourself no probs. For immediate relief take off fuel filter and clean it out with fuel, it may be clogged. But do replace it if it is clogged, even if you unclog it it will soon clog up again.
J
Is it necessary to warm up your car in the morning?
It is necessary on cold, especial extremely cold days. REASON BEING: Is that it takes the oil to reach it's proper viscosity longer time than on warm days. When you do start car, don't race it or you'll be doing more damage. Let it stay at idle for about 3 - 5 minuets until you see the temperature gauge start to get to move to a hotter position, or better yet, until you have heat. Reason is that thick oil cannot easily flow though tiny holes in crankshaft, push rods not getting oil into small spacers in cylinder block, valve guides, rocker arms and oil control rings leaving a dry cylinder wall, which causing wear to cylinder bore. Sometimes in really cold places, they suggest using a lighter gauge oil.
I will give my answer which is in opposition the the above answer somewhat. In years past when cars had carburetors it was a necessity to warm the engine up before driving off because the engine simply would not run correctly until the carb got warm. Today it is a bad idea to let the car idle for more than a couple of minutes max before driving off. Reason being is that on todays modern engines with computer controlled fuel management systems it is not necessary and is in fact a waste of fuel and pollutes the atmosphere plus harms the converter. Modern fuel injection systems do not need to warm up to work properly as an old carburetor did. They work instantly and the ECU adjusts the fuel/air mixture to compensate. Modern oils of today are also a far cry from what they were decades ago. Modern Oil sticks to all parts better today than in the past. This is not the same formulation that we had decades ago. There is a thin layer of oil on all parts when you start the engine due to modern refinery processes, so you are not causing wear to that engine if you drive slowly until it reaches full operating temperatures. Modern vehicles will warm up very quickly if driven but not so fast if sitting at idle. You are also doing your catalytic converter no good by letting this very rich mixture of fuel/air enter a cold converter that does not work well when cold. Just drive away slowly, avoiding full throttle until the engine is warmed up. This is 2010 not 1955. Things have changed.I can see the above point of view. But there is still a disagreement on oil. yes there will be a very, very thin layer of oil on the cylinder walls, but even sythetic oil will settle downwards ,and on a 20 degree day will be sticky and wipe off in one piston stroke. it still ,in my opinion, takes a little bit of time for oil to thin out as it gets warm. Has enyone ever went to change oil on a 10 to 20 degree day. It barley comes out of the drain hole, unless you let it run for even a minute, can you picture this oil flowing through tiny openings. however, point is well made that idleing and driven slow for the same amount of time will do the same exact thing. Main point is ; don't reve the engine right away, or drive fast for a few miniutes. Note: in places like Alaska, they use a heating source overnight because the car may not even turn over or do it slowly, because the oil is so thick.
Ans 3 -The second answer is the correct one. Letting a modern engine idle for long periods is not good with modern oils being as 'clingy' as they are.
Where is butterfly valve Volvo 850?
The only butterfly valve I am aware of is in the carbuerator and contols air flow. Few cans still use this item.
Why would a car shut off and then when i try to start it the lights come on but it doesn't crank?
there is somthing blocking the magnito or its broken (the magneto)
What are the sensors on a Ford escort ZX2?
The Crankshaft Position Sensor senses it's position from a toothed timing ring behind the Crankshaft pulley. The CKP is above and to the left of the crankshaft pulley.
hi!,had the same problem with our 93`.Disconnecting the plug to the tcc solenoid corrected our problem.On the upper right hand side of the transmission(behind and just slightly below the alternator)there is a black plastic plug in.Pry the plastic locks away on the side of the plug and wiggle it out to disconnect.Our mechanic suggested doing this after we described the same stalling problem to him.Hope this helps with your problem,it worked for us.Replacing the tcc solenoid is an unneccessary cost,in my opinion.Just be sure to cover the end of the plug afterwards to prevent road dirt from getting in there.,...Ron C
What could cause a 2000 Olds Alero to stall after driving about 10 to 20 miles?
Replace the fuel filter and have the ignition module checked.
Timing, fuel filter & Check throttle body not sticking & get injectors cleaned professionaly. good luck.
Would a bad coil make it so your 1998 dodge Dakota wont start?
The coil provides the extra power needed for a good spark, without it, a weak spark may or may not ignite the fuel/air mixture. It's a good idea to replace the coil every 50,000 miles, or every time you replace the distributor cap and rotor.
My 2001 Oldsmobile aurora cranks but won't turn on What is Going ON?
Is there spark at the plus? is there fuel pressure to the injectors?
there is a problem with your cruise contol,have it checked. also have cam positioning sensor checked
it may be the drive shaft u-joints if its rear wheel drive
Where is the camshaft position sensor on 2002 Dodge Neon?
The crankshaft sensor on a 2 door Honda Accord with a 3L V6 engine is located on the side of the engine, near the oil filter. It screws into the side of the block and outputs the loading of the crankshaft to the vehicle's computer.
Are car lacks power specially while going up hill?
There could be many reasons why a car will lack power when going up a hill. The car could need a tune up or the transmission maybe having problems.
A bad coil can damage a converter. If the engine is misfiring, it will cause raw fuel to get into the converter and that can cause failure.
Why does Ford Laser stall when accelerator pressed?
check the spark plugs and leads, there may be no spark going to the pistons. also check the carburettor. this happened to my 1987 laser, i did all this and it now runs like a dream
fuel injector or crank sensor is at fault here
Can wrong valve clearance cause the engine to stall?
If the valves are incorrectly adjusted it will hurt performance.
