Car Stalling Problems

There are many number of possibilities. This can be the fuel system. The ignition system. Loose or broken vacume hoses. Or even a bad engine ground. I suggest you take it to an auto parts store that you go to alot, and ask them to hook up the OBDII Diagnostic scanner. This will narrow your possibilities substansouly.

sounds like an electrnic ignition module

I have a dodge 1992 Dakota and it had that same problem, i have tried a lot of thingsthat i thought would work, but then i go a new computer from the junkyard, and it ranperfectly, hope this helps

if your alternator is only 5 mon old you could have a bad connection on the alternator that isn't makeing good contact , or it could have a bad stator i would take the alternator back were you got it have them test it if its bad and it has a bad stator it might have warranty on it and they will replace it .

Check to see if it is getting spark
Check to see if it is getting fuel


check your MAF. if it is disconnected or bad the car will do exactly as you state. it is usually located on the air cleaner assembly.

As with engines before the days of Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), stumble had two basic causes- incorrect ignition and incorrect fuel/ air mixture for the required operating condition. With computer controlled EFI, the computer or any of its sensors or actuators can go faulty, and when this happens you can get, you guessed it- incorrect ignition and incorrect fuel/ air mixture for the required operating condition, thus engine stumble. Here is the list of items on the 90+ that can be sources of this problem , in no particular order

Worn or defective spark plugs

PCV hose air leak

Air flow meter

Intake valve deposit

Exhaust gas sensor

carbon canister

fuel pressure

fuel pressure regulator

Injector

injector circuits

ignition coil and circuits

Transistor ignition unit

ECU harness connector

ECU power supply & ground

ECU

AAC valve

Air regulator

clogged idle screw

Battery

alternator

EGR

Temp sensor

Temp sensor connector

Throttle position sensor

Idle switch

Cone Air filter

Crank angle sensor

Fuel temp sensor

Speed sensor

Incorrect timing belt installation

Crank Angle sensor and circuits

Ignition Timing What I observed was that an engine can have quite a few things not functioning properly and still run- The fuel pressure regulator can be inoperative or the EGR can be non functional and you may not notice it, the exhaust gas sensor may not work , so the engine runs a bit rougher etc. Do you get the idea now that if you're having problems that it could be anything? So where do you start? If the problem is intermittent, you may never find it. As another example, I still have a 1987 Mitsubishi Starion, which ran perfectly for 35,000 miles. Then it developed an intermittent hesitation problem- you would be cruising at 60mph, on a 400 mile trip, ease off the gas pedal, and suddenly for 1/4 second, it was as though someone had switched off the engine and then turned it back on again. The car would then run faultlessly for the rest of the trip. This happened 4 times in a period of 1 year, then never happened again. The car has now done 70,000 miles and run perfectly ever since.

It is part of the fuel pump assembly in the tank.

lots of thangs. could be bad starter, oxygen sensor/s, spark plugs, map sensor, fuel pump/filter/relay switch, catalytic converter, pcv hose, plus many more. im no mechanic but i had bought all these items for my 92 caprice classic

If it only stalls in corners this indicates a serious electrical problem that will only get worse

Depend on what make and model vehicle you are installing it on. Any auto parts store can quote you the price.

The Lincoln LS is specifically not well suited for use in the Northeast US, areas with significant rainfall, or areas in which salt is used to clear snow and ice from roadways.

Fuel delivery problems such as a dirty fuel filter, a fuel pump going bad, a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

You have a misfire - engine related, not tranny...get the engine checked/tuned up...etc... dave

Mostly fusible link for starter solenoid is located very close to the battery or between the battery fuse and terminal.

Quite often it's related to the fuel pump relay. The relay is turned on for a brief time when you first turn on the key, and if the engine doesn't start right away the fuel pump is turned off to prevent potential problems. Beyond that, you'll need to do some investigating and trouble shooting.

well sometimes when you try to start it it starts but shuts off again. sometimes it just doesnt do anything when you turn the key. i thought my ignition swith didnt work on my 98 prelude but i called Honda and told them the problem they told me that it could be just a relay next to the switch so i bought replaced the old one and it turns out that's what it was. you should try that first being that it only cost aroun 60 bucks and the iginition and swithch cost hundreds more.

well sometimes when you try to start it it starts but shuts off again. sometimes it just doesnt do anything when you turn the key. i thought my ignition swith didnt work on my 98 prelude but i called Honda and told them the problem they told me that it could be just a relay next to the switch so i bought replaced the old one and it turns out that's what it was. you should try that first being that it only cost aroun 60 bucks and the iginition and swithch cost hundreds more.

auto overdrive torque converter locking up

No, not unless the vehicle is designed to shut off when the oil pressure falls below a certain level. Replace the oil pressure sending unit to find out.

check head gasket, and, or intake gasket, most likely its one or the other. of couse there are other things to check, like fuel pump, fuel fiter,coil, coil wire. hope you find the problem

Check timing belt

I dont have the answer, but my 92 does the same thing

I had the same problem with a jeep wrangler and I replaced the throttle position sensor and that solved my problem.

I have the same problem. Car starts right up, runs great on the highway, but the moment i have to stop the car, it stalls. I have noticed it only starts doing this after the car has warmed up to normal running temp. The check engine light continually comes on, then disappears, only to reappear later. It has had the mass airflow sensor replaced twice. This has not solved the problem. Last week i had my wife start the car, while i watched the exhaust. When the car starts to stall, i notice black smoke. A sign that it is running to rich(to much gasoline in the air/gasoline mixture). I suspect the computer is still trying to choke the car as if it is cold, even when it is warmed up. I am finally going to take it to an actual Volvo dealer tomorrow. I will follow up with the results.

if the car is chugging (petrol) it means the combustion is not happening, it would either be problem from the source of electric power to the spark plugs, or the spark plugs itself might be faulty, to diagnose them check if the battery is having good charge at least 11 volts, then check the condenser, point condensers, then spark pulg change whatever is necessary after diagnosing and you are ready to go

Could be fuel or electrical problem. Does the car start and run okay the first time you start it? Does the engine run smoothly under load?

sounds like you have a problem with the ignition if if has coil packs it will do that or it could be the wires but problay the ignition is wore out . it might not look bad but the inside is gone once you put any kind of stress on it