Chevy Chevelle

To take apart the glove box latch on a 1969 Chevelle, first, open the glove box and remove any contents. Next, locate the screws or bolts securing the latch mechanism to the glove box and use a screwdriver or socket wrench to remove them. Once the screws are out, carefully detach the latch from the glove box by pulling it away from the mounting points. If necessary, you may need to disconnect any linkage or wiring associated with the latch.

The cost of an air conditioning (AC) unit for a 1971 Chevelle can vary significantly based on factors such as the type of unit (factory original vs. aftermarket), condition, and whether it's new or used. On average, you might expect to pay anywhere from $800 to $2,500 for a complete AC system, including installation. Vintage parts or restorations can increase costs, while DIY installations may reduce labor expenses. Always check with classic car suppliers or restoration shops for the most accurate pricing.

Remove the ball joint and the two bolts that hold the rocker shaft to the frame. Keep track of the shims! You will need to put them back. The easiest way to get them out is with a press, but you CAN use a vice and beat the hell out of them, although I wouldn't recommend it. Chances are, the shaft will NOT come out with both bushings in the control arm, keep that in mind when you press the new ones in... You will need to re-install the shaft BEFORE you press the second bushing back in.

Something is keeping power to the ignition coil. You need a wiring schematic and trace the wiring.

The lock is accessible by removing the steering wheel and the signal switch underneath. You have to depress the spring loaded catch that is visible from above with the tip of a flat blade screwdriver and it will pop out.

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Those have to be cut out, and welded back in.

The answer to your question is YES... 72 was a transition year. The 8.2 was used for most of the 72 model year then late in the run they switched to the 8.5.

I wouldn't sell it but if you want to go and have a collector appraise it.

The battery cable on the positive side goes to the starter. The purple wire goes from the ignition switch to the neutral safety switch then down to the starter. On the solenoid the is a "R" and that is where the wire from the coil goes. The "R" means resistor

* The VIN begins with the prefix "JKA", "JKB", "JK1", "JSA", or "LM4" * On all motorcycles it is stamped on the side of the steering head. On street-legal motorcycles, the VIN also appears on the Safety Certification Label affixed to, or near, the side of the steering head. * On ATV's it is stamped on the lower frame tube, to the left of the engine. * On MULE® utility vehicles, look for a plate welded to the frame at or near the front of the vehicle. On some MULE models, the VIN is located on the frame, just below the front of the seat. The above is a quote from the Kawasaki website. But, I found the VIN numbers on both of my Kawasaki ATV's on the lowest frame tube parallel to the ground. The Prairie 700 had the number on the left under the front differential. The Bayou 250 had the number directly under the engine on the left side.

The numbers are stamped into the frame and not that obvious, but are easy to see once you know where to look.

Not without modification

You will have to remove the instrument cluster to gain access. You might want to purchase a Haynes Manual that will instruct you.

Yes, but they will look VERY stupid on a '72 Chevelle. Keep in mind that "72 Chevelles came with 14" wheels for standard cars, and 15" wheels for Super Sports. Anything bigger than 18" will NOT look good.

you need a steering wheel puller to get it off.

No, they made a small block 400 and a big block 402. However, Chevrolet DID call the 402 a "400" in certain applications. They also called the 402 a 396 in 1970 (the 402 is a slightly over bored 396) because of they reputation the 396 had built in the SS396 Chevelle Super Sports.