Chevy Chevelle

The firewalls should be close enough to work they may be some differences from vehicle to vehicle though

There is a square tag that is about 2 inches high and 4 inches long on the top of the firewall just to the right of the master cylinder.

Probably, but they will look REALLY stupid on a '68 Chevelle. Keep in mind that the wheel openings were designed for 14" wheels, as well as the suspension, etc. Anything bigger than 18" looks terrible on a Chevelle.

Depends on the rear axle the car has. 10 bolt is most likely 8.25" for a 1968, but 8'5" is also possible. 12 Bolt is 8.875".

Usually to the left of the points window when looking at it from the side. That does NOT mean someone hasn't changed it though. Remember you're dealing with a 40 year old car. It doesn't actually matter which one it is. Set the engine to TDC for #1 and pull the cap and see which wire tower the rotor is point at. That's the number one on YOUR car. The easiest way to be sure you're not at #6 instead of #1 (180 degrees out) take off the driver side valve cover and watch the intake valve. When it closes, turn the crank until the timing mark is at zero. Now the engine is at TDC for #1.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=P005&UserAction=initiateVehicleRegistration

If the above doesn't appear as a link, highlight edit copy and paste the link into your address bar. Then enter the info on your truck.. year make model engine.. then click vehicle 'Repair Info' followed by "Vehicle Repair Guides" for a free on repair guide.

you need a pull choke cable to use it manually and then set it so when closed you can fit an 1/8" drill bit between the carb body and the choke flap.

the chevelle ss 396 was the correct name and chevelle Malibu was a separate model of the chevelle.

Firstly get the A/C system de-gassed and the springlock fittings undone. then remove heater hoses in the engine compartment at the firewall.(do not drain coolantyou only loose about 500 ml) remove :5 X 11mm nuts from the firewall one is located beside the battery :disconnect battery :unplug vaccuum hose above the heater pipes go inside remove the following :the cup holder in front half of the console remove gear shift boot to access screws remove console :unclip top dash cover near windscreen :Four 10 mm nuts securing bulkhead below windscreen :hex head screwss at side of dash 3 each side :2 screws holding speaker covers on both ends and earth straps behind drivers side :lower steering cover trim (leave steering wheel on but cover cowling with a rag to prevent scratching) :Glove compartment :two 17 mm nuts behind glove compartment holding airbag :ash tray and radio facia trim :heater controls :instrument cluster (to prevent scratching) :lift dash up and out onto left hand seat (careful of the turn signal stalk and headlight stalk) :one 8 mm screw behind glove compartment holding heater box :heater box assembly will now lift out :remove blower fan and 15 8mm screws around heater :cut foam seal so the box separates into 2 halves :time to remove & refit 4 hours the core is copper and any good radiator workshop will recore it

Center of the front bumper, right above the license plate.

They are the engine serial number and the suffix code. The suffix codes can easily be decoded. For example, a CRV suffix code is a 454, 450 HP, 4-speed transmission. If the serial numbers that precede "CRV" match the VIN of the car, then you have a numbers matching LS6 4-speed car.

yearone.com, paddock.com, and echlerchevelle.com

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise on distributor cap,

Driver's side head front to rear cylinder numbers or 1-3-5-7

The other head........................................................ 2-4-6-8

.045 is a good place to start with HEI.

A standard Chevelle frame will not fit an El Camino as it was based on the station wagon frame

Get a chiltons repair manual for 1970 chevelle at the library.

It's a thin sheet metal tube that you can work back and forth from the top to remove it. If it breaks off you'd need to push it out from the bottom.

The timing marks should be on the driver's side of the car down by the harmonic balancer on a small plate. theres usually a "pointer" on the drivers side. its attached with two of the front cover bolts. When you look down at your Harmonic balancer there should be something about it that you see that looks kinda like saw teeth with numbers in the gaps. The zero or line whichever year you have should be on the Harmonic balancer.

unplug all the wires associated with the front end and start unbolting everything else.

No.

Many were painted the same color as the body. Those that weren't were painted argent (dark silver.)

Nothing....it's actually a Chevelle Malibu. A lot of times....especially for the older cars, most people just drop the "Malibu" part.

Improved:

The Malibu is an improved trim option from the Chevelle 300 Series

So from 1964 and 1965

Chevrolet Malibu (SS)/ Chevrolet Chevelle 300 (deluxe)

1966 till 1968

Chevrolet Chevelle 300(Deluxe)/Malibu/SS

1969-1972

Chevrolet Chevelle 300/Malibu/SS

If it only "thumps" once, I'd be concerned about ball joints, struts or a problem with the rack-and-pinion. If it is a noise that keeps going, I'd check lug nuts, CV joints or U joints.

Disconnect the battery. First you need to remove the lock cylinder. To remove it, with the key in the ignition, you will need to insert a pin in the small hole on the lock cylinder to release it, I usually use the end of a paperclip. Once it is released, it should turn counter-clockwise past the accessory position and slide out. You will notice the retaining ring around the switch has three slots cut into it. Use a flat screwdriver and gently tap it to turn the retaining ring counter-clockwise... It's basically a nut. You can pull it out from behind the dash. Unhook the tabs on the plug and unplug it. Plug the new one in, slide it back through the hole, install and tighten the retainer nut. The lock cylinder should just slide right in in the same position it came out. Once it's in, simply turn it to the off position and you are done. Re-connect the battery.

pull the wire off of it and then get your wrench or socket and unbolt the sensor and install the new one.