Chevy Cheyenne

30 GAL. when compleatly empty.

YES, they are basically the same engines.

Depends on the year, vehicle it is installed in, and what 350 you are referring to. GM built many different variations of this engine over the years.

Raise the headrest as high as it will go. At the base of the 2 metal rods that connect the headrest to the seat are small plastic pieces that cover the mechanism that locks the headrest to the seat. On the side of these plastic pieces there is a small hole. On all trucks I have dealt with, the hole was facing the passenger side of the truck. Using gentle pressure on the headrest, raising it upwards, insert a small stiff wire (a straightened out paperclip works, but a stiffer wire is better) into the hole, and push against the catch inside this piece. You can feel the headrest give a bit, and raise up on the side you are working on. Repeat the process on the other side, however, if you relax pressure the headrest can slip back into the locking mechanism. It takes practice to make for a quick removal, but it is not difficult. Just have to push up on headrest and in on release at the same time. If you need to re-install the headrest, if you place the headrest in backwards (face the notches towards the drivers side of the truck) when you need to remove it, it will slide right out. Hope this helps

Your key no longer turns the ignition switch or the key becomes stuck in the cylinder. Unlike other models where just the cylinder lock can be replaced, on the Escort GT, the entire assembly that surrounds the steering column must be replaced. This is a large part that consists of the steering wheel lock and the ignition switch. Most major parts stores sell replacements but are it is not a normal stock item. At the far left side of the assembly is a large wire connector for the ignition switch. Carefully release the keepers and disconnect. To remove the old assembly, first remove the upper and lower plastic shrouds from the steering column. Use care when separating, not to pull on the small wiring for the ignition illumination bulb. Next, remove the four large bolts holding the steering column to the dashboard and allow the steering column to hang loose. Compare the replacement part to the installed ignition lock assembly and notice the two mounting bolts appear to have no heads, but are tapered, cone-like vestiges. These are tamper-proof bolts. The easiest way I have found to remove them, is to use a sharp, medium sized cold chisel. Place the edge of the chisel against the taper in the direction that when struck, will cause the bolt to unscrew (counter-clockwise). Strike the chisel sharply and the bolt should loosen after just two or three blows and be able to unscrew the rest of the way by hand. Installation is the reverse. If you have been playing with the new assembly and have turned the key back and forth, make sure the switch has been returned to the OFF position but leave the key in place so it is not in the LOCK position. Note that when the new tamper-proof bolts are installed and torqued down, the hex head will break off. This is normal. The new key(s) will only operate the ignition switch, it will operate the door locks. You can take the new keys to a locksmith who can cut the settings for door locks from the old key. A few minutes and dollars spent now, will save considerable inconvenience and embarrassement later on when you find yourself locked out of your own car. Edit to above response: I was unable to go back and edit the original answer. Please note the second paragraph should be included within the third as it makes no sense otherwise. (You have to remove the shrouds before you can get to the wiring connector.) Also in the last paragraph regarding the new key, it should read 'the new key will NOT open the door locks, etc...'

If you want your service engine soon or check engine light reset than you can disconnect the battery. If you want the security light out you have to hook up a battery charger and turn your key to the on position without starting it. Wait at least 15 minutes, then turn key back to the off position and then try to start it.

The R4 ac compressors (new) are currently being manufactured by 4 Seasons. They build them for Delphi, and add the Delco/ Delphi stickers onto them. That said, they are also available here: www.acpartshouse.com First off a GM compressor is an R4 OEM compressor made by Delphi. Delphi subcontracts the manufacturning to another company. I do recommend you get a new one, but it does not need to be OEM new. The price at the dealer is a joke. www.discountacparts.com has new aftermarket and new OEM ones available.

The distributor gear may be missing a tooth. A new gear is about $40.00. The symptom other than the engine not starting, is that once you shut off the key and retry to start the engine, it most likely will START. Good Luck!

as long as they are the same trans and bolt pattern to the differencial there may be a difference in wiring

No one knows. I have asked that question to many mechanics many with GM, All have different opinions.

3.0 lbs

In a full-floating axle, the axle bearing is placed on the outside of the axle housing. This places all the vehicle weight on the axle housing and none on the axle itself. This is important for the front axle which is generally a short shaft. In the semi-floating axle, the axle bearing is placed in the axle housing and the axle carries some of the load of the vehicle. The main advantage of the semi-floating is that it is simpler (i.e. cheaper). Courtesey of: http://www.m38a1.ca/axles.html Sourced by: Paul Henderson, Donegal, Ireland.

Change the throttle position sensor, that will fix ya right up.

really, need more info, ext cab/reg cab/long/short box. honestally. but for the sake of argument, it's about 6,000 GVW

If the fire order is right then it is going to de 1 of 2 things the distrubutor or the timming. First thak the screw out of the bottom and the turn the distubutor while trying to start it.

Some could be's, Bad u-joints in driveshaft, Bad transmission mount. Transmission cross member loose.

NO.. Not even close. You can not use a transmission over the year of 1999. Chevy REDESIGNED there transmissions and engines in the late months of 1999

converting inches to metric applies to anything...doesn't matter what casting number.

350 cubic inches is roughly equal to 5.7 liters.

http://www.jegs.com

the 454 out of the chevelle in 73 had 265 horse.

under the truck, on the side passenger side of the transmission case is a screw-in bolt for check/fill

1. Jack up truck, put it on jack stands

2. Remove wheels

3. Using a line wrench, remove the brake lines

4. Remove the calipers with an Allen wrench(they will be on there very tightly, you will probably need a cheater pipe to give you more leverage)

5. Remove brake pads from calipers

6. Install pads into calipers

7. Install new calipers on truck using either the original hardware or the supplied hardware(make sure the calipers are tightened to spec)

8. Install both brake lines

9. Bleed brakes, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder(front passenger) Add fluid as necessary

10. Reinstall wheels

11. Lower vehicle

12. Make sure the brake work before leaving the drive way, at low speed first, the gradualy faster

Yes. It does.

Not until the 70 series (non usa item) did they become full floaters unless you count the FJ-45 pickup which has a full float rear end.

The 80 series was the next USA model to utilize full float rear end but that is only from 95-97, the 91-94 models had a semi-float axle setup.

you.