Chevy Nova

It will bolt onto the motor, however, the v-8 Nova, stock, uses a front sump oil pan. So, it will not fit into the van, or, to put the motor in the Novaq, you will have to change the oil pump pick up. Or, get an aftermarket, "rear sump" pan from Mororso, or someone.

5 x 4 3/4"

The only easy way is to remove the fender. There are three bolts going through each hinge and into the body. These bolts allow you to adjust the front and rear edge of the door up, down ,and forward and back. There are also three large Philips head screws going through each hinge into the door. These allow a little up and down movement but are mostly to adjust the front edge of the door in or out (towards the interior).

To start you should always align the door up and down first. You do this because it is the only alignment that requires you to loosen all 6 bolts at once. First loosen the bolts that go through the hinge into the body. It may be necessary to jiggle the door hard to loosen up the sealer under the hinge. On the ones I did we had to remove the door from the car, lay it on a stand and loosen the 6 screws in the door. we actually had to heat them to get them loose. You have to get them loose now because you cant get them loose with the door on the car. Once they are loose snug them up but don't tighten very tight.

With another persons help, put the door back on the car, raise the door to the desired height. You should be able to align the top front edge of the door with the top edge of the cowl panel. Only tighten one bolt in each hinge.

Next you need to adjust the forward and backward gaps. I like to do the top hinge first. Slowly loosen the bolt until you see the door begin to sag. Have a friend hold the door in the desired position and tighten the bolt. Repeat the steps with the bottom hinge. At this point you should be pretty close. you may need to redo each step several times. Sometimes when you tighten the other bolts the door may move a little bit, you will just need to keep making adjustments until you get it where you want it.

You may want to remove the rear latch so that it doesn't interfere. When the gaps at the bottom and rear of the door are even and where you want them you can start on the in and out gaps.

For this you need a special screwdriver shaped like an "L". You need to reattach the fender and align it to the front edge of the door. Next open the door and use the special screwdriver to loosen the screws going into the door on one hinge. adjust the in and out of the door and do any fine tuning. repeat on the other hinge tighten the screws and check the alignment.

Lastly reattach the latch and slowly close the door visually align the latch and tighten the screws. close the door. if the rear edge is in too far the latch needs to be moved out. If the door is out too far , move the latch in. Crouch down and look at the top of the door and quarter. open the door. if it jumps up then you need to move the latch up. If it drops down than you need to adjust the latch down.

Lastly you should be warned that these doors a particularly difficult to align. Most reputable body shops should be able to fine tune the adjustment if you cant get it just where you want it. Don't be afraid to contact a " Good " body shop and enlist their help. Most would gladly help with fine tuning the door alignment for a small fee.

accelerator pump inside the carburator

Around 3100-3200 lbs

In litres?, 5.0

Usually against the firewall on passenger side attached to accumulator -large hose

1-5-3-6-2-4 same firing order as any Chevrolet in line 6 (aka straight 6)

Yes. You can purchase different intake manifolds and carburetor adapters to get you from almost anything to almost anything.

Your results may vary.

Replace the stock tail panel with a 68 thru 72 panel.Next swap gas tanks the 73 neck faces up above the bumper not downward like the 68 thru 72.The final step install a 68/72 rear bumper to finish it off.

Plug gap is .035 and you will need a chiltons repair manual from the library for your year car to see the vaccum routing.

The real question here is (a) where do you GET an A/C unit to install in a 1976 Nova and (b) who can install this unit CORRECTLY in my 1976 Nova. There was an aftermarket (non-factory) unit manufactured for this vehicle in earlier years. Finding one now may take a little doing. We are talking about a factory-type unit that looks like factory and where the air comes from the vents in the dash like factory. If you are unable to find one of these, you may have to settle for an underdash model, which mounts below the dash. While not as cosmetically appealling, they work well and are simpler in design. I suggest calling either Scottie's Auto Air in New Orleans or Catlin & Sons in Jadksonville, FL. One of them will know if a factory type can be had, but either can provide SOMETHING for it. Now, the next question is who can put it in-- right. Right, is the key word here.

Scottie's installs, but I have no idea where you are. Likely, there is a shop in your area that can install a unit. I would talk to a few that claim to know what they are doing, see how they sound, check them out with references and go from there. Hope this helps and good luck.

this is most likely caused by a bad brake booster. hook up a vaccum pump to booster and see if it holds vaccum, if it does, its ok, if it doesnt, its bad. booster is located between firewall and brake fluid resevoir, you will see a large diameter vaccum hose connected to it, this is where to test it at.

i was wondering my self i think you have to cut and weld maybe even fab up your own brackets... if or when you do it get back to me i would love to hear how or what you did.. thomasgranillo2@yahoo.com

A lot of the time it is cast on the intake manifold, It is 1-5-3-6-2-4

The 75 - 76 Was a transitional year as for 69 - 74 where the same

chiltons repair manual for your year car at the library.

not sure what hood, but it was not the stinger hood. that hood was only put out on the Baldwin motion nova. i think it was only on the 69 nova from them and not on the 70 model.

Attached to the firewall/heater box under the passenger side finder. Trace your heater hoses back and you'll see it hiding to the left side of the hood hinge. To get to it you have to remove the inner fender well.

Locate the steering column retaining bolts under the column and remove them. Drop the column down to access the switch that is mounted on top of column. There will be a rod that operates this switch coming from the lock. Disconnect the wiring harness from the switch and then remove the retaining screws and rod coming from the ignition lock. Simple as that. If you lost keys and want to replace lock, no use going through all that tearing up of die-cast metal just sign up with AAA. It is only $60 a year and they will have someone make a key for you and then you have the most important tool for changing the ignition lock. Since all kinds of posts are available on how to change the LOCK I gave the answer to the question asked and did not share lock replacement here...

No, they are 2 different bodystyles

That depends. If the car is an automatic the flywheel has 153 teeth. With a manual transmission it also has 153 teeth unless the car was equipped with a heavy duty clutch, which WAS optional in the 1972 Nova, but it is pretty rare. Most of the 168 teeth heavy duty clutches were installed behind big blocks. Yours is most likely a 153 tooth. One easy way to check this is looking at the starter bolts. If they are parallel with the flywheel, then it is a 153 teeth flywheel. If they are diagonal with the flywheel, then it is a 168 teeth, which also means that an 11" clutch is most likely installed as well.

the regulator is located in the altnator.

No, they're 2 different bodystyles

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