Your engine computer has died. When mine went a little puff of smoke rose almost dead center on the windshield. The earlier generation Stealths / 3000gts used electrolytic caps which had a 7 year life. Some of them lasted much longer. Like yours, for example. I'm shopping for a repair service now. The common deal looks like it'll cost $275. Let me know if you find a good deal!

it depends on a lot of things. go to kbb.com

you can put a turbo on a stealth but if the engine is made to be NA (naturally aspirated) then it would reqire a lot of work by a trained mechanic

it would be cheaper to buy the R/t twin turbo edition of the car n just put bigger turbos on

around 3000 rmps

Under coolant fill, in the thermostat housing, rear of engine (middle of engine bay) above trans/engine seam

Bad white wire

On a 1992 Dodge Stealth Base model with a 3.0 Liter Engine It is located in the base of the Distributer, it has four wires connected to it via a molded plug. this is a source of many problems with a 1992 Stealth. The plug is located right next to the Power steering High presure hose, and on my stealth was chafed in two. It is very hard to see this problem until it is unplugged from distributer.

low washer fluid

It's possible, but if you turned the engine off/put the tranny in neutral immediatly, you should be ok. Replace the belt and turn the engine over a couple of times (avoid starting, if possible) with a friend standing over/near the engine. If they don't hear and wierd noises (odd ticks or clicks), start her up. Listen carefully, if you don't hear anything out of the ordinary - you should be good to go.

Ya i just did one on my 93 dodge and ill never do it again just take it to the dealer and pay the extra money because its a pain that's the best i got for you

Either the fan is no good or the heat sensor in your radiator, that turns the fan on is not working!!

it means u move really fast

Right behind battery on firewall, must remove battery, battery tray and windshield wiper reservoir to get to it.

As long as it doesn't "ping" severly Pinging is pinging and no amount is acceptable. In some instances you can run a lower octane fuel than is required by the manufacture but at a price. If the fuel/air management and timing are computer controlled, then the computer may adjust for the lower octane fuel. Not sure about your model year. This will cause a loss of power and lower MPG. So, you may in the end spend more for fuel and have less power. Sometimes this pinging or pre-detonation may be so slight as to not be audible. Pinging is never a good thing and will eventually cause damage. For this reason, never, ever, run a lower octane than is required. Your car requires Premium Unleaded. That may mean 89 or may mean 91 octane. Check your owners manual for the requirement. You bought a car with a high compression engine that requires the use of premium fuel. You knew this going in, so bite the bullet and only use premium fuel or suffer the consequences. Another choice is to sell this car and buy one that can burn regular unleaded.

I assume the car your talking about has flip-up headlights. The bulb is the small size twin beam. (I don't remember the number) 1. flip light up 2. remove trim cover screws. 3. remove bezel screws. 4. remove bulb and diconect wire plug. To re-assemble do above in reverse. SEE THIS PICTURE: http://www.stealth316.com/images/mitchell/s-parts-01.gif bottom right of linked picture

check ecm engine controle module icm ignition control module or crank angle censor if is a dhoc distributer if shoc>>>>JAC

10w-30 fully synthetic

there on one of the sides of the center console below radio you have to remove the fabric pannels close to your feet there a couple relays on both sides of this console not shure what side but its one of them

bad coil pack... replace coil pack

not sure but disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does the trick