Ford E-350 Van

My guess is that you are experiencing a vapor lock problem. It was very common with this E350 series. It is caused by running too low of octane in your fuel. The engine produces more heat with lower octane fuels. This makes the exhaust manifold extremely hot. The fuel lines run right along the inside of the frame, right by the exhaust manifold, causing the fuel to get super heated. As long as you use a fuel with at least 87 octane, you should be alright. In many states, the regular gas has an octane rating of only 85. In those states, you will need to run the mid-grade gas or use an octane booster product.

or check for vaccum leakes.

Try replacing your headlight switch, it includes an internal circuit breaker that has possibly gone bad and will not reset any more. On my 89 there is ground wire on body in front of battery. Bad ground connection will keep headlights from working. Could be hi/lo dimmer switch on steering column under dash. Difficult to change without removing steering column. I unplugged switch, plugged in new switch, set new switch on dim, and wired it to column. Since old switch still connected to actuator rod going to turn signal/dimmer handle I only have dim lights but can drive at night.

Excessive vibration at high speeds on a Ford E-350 despite road force balancing of tires could be caused by issues such as wheel alignment problems, worn suspension components, or a problem with the driveshaft. It is recommended to have a qualified mechanic inspect the vehicle to diagnose and address the root cause of the vibration.

theres a cover hiding everythign that needs to be pulled off first. the fuel injectors might need to be turn a tad to work in there. each individual plug has a coil on top of it. you have to unblolt them and pull it out. it will have a rubber boot and a spring inside that might break off, but pull it all off. then unscrew the plug and repeat the process.

word to the wise : a mechanic told me if you disturb the coils they will cause the engine to miss fire so your better off waiting to change the plugs until the cylinder misfires, but all that need to be changed is the rubber boots and springs if it does miss

First, check the bulb to see if it needs replacing. If the bulb is fine, then the issue might be with the temperature sender unit or wiring. You may need to replace the sender unit or re-wire the connections to fix the temperature light.

Probably leaking back at the master cylender.

A lot of older window cranks are held in with a clip which is difficult to get out unless you buy a special tool sold at auto parts stores made just for this application. If you ask at the parts store they will know just what you're talking about. The tool is pretty cheap in price from what I remember.

Depends on the type of chassis used/ modification of back? Depends on the type of chassis used/ modification of back?

my turn light no work

The drivers manual that comes with that Ford has a fuse diagram in it.

You have to take off the air intake cover and wires from a sensor located in a elbow like joint for air intake assembly, plus 2 bolts at the top . Unscrew the clamps. Now there are 2 ground connectors/bolts on the front of the starter, remove those too. starter are hanged with 2 bolts, one 18mm at the top and the bottom one is 15mm remove those and free it comes.

George

changed seliniod on starter and on firewall ,checked fuses still won't turn over, if I cross the upper seliniod with a screw driver it turns over but won't start?

If you have a trailer hitch electrical plug, check the connection for a cut or broken wire. Also look for bulbs that may be damaged or plugged in wrong, and sockets that may be damaged or have a connector that has crossed to the ground.

• disconnect battery cables
• drain the cooling system
• remove drive belt (4 cyl) or water pump drivebelt (6 cyl)
• (4 cyl instructions)
• remove right front wheel and splash guard
• remove water pump pulley
• remove bolts attaching water pump to engine block and then remove pump. if stuck tap w/ rubber mallet
• clean the bolt threads, remove all gasket (w/ sandpaper, or removal tool) scrap off sealent.
• (6 cyl)
• remove air filter housing
• remove water pump drivebelt tensioner
• remove water pump mounting bolts and water pump
• clean the bolt threads, remove all gasket (w/ sandpaper, or removal tool) scrap off sealent.
• (last steps for both models)
• apply rtv sealant, gasket
• mate pump to housing
• install bolts (89 in-lbs torque)
• reinstall belt, fill cooling system, reattach battery
  

follow the lower radiator hose,it will connect to the pump.you may have a thermostat mounted to the pump and your pump may be fine, check this out first.

The first scanner for computers was introduced in the year 1957. It was a drum scanner that was designed by Russell A. Kirsch.

If there are speakers in the rear there are also wires connected to them so find the speakers and you'll find the wires.

Switch? both headlights?

No

It has to do with the tranny shifting. It also has about 4 different names - can't remember what ford calls it but the parts catalog isn't listed the same as the label on the relay box.

I don't remember off the top of my head what exactly it does but when mine went out on a 90 f250 it made the tranny go into the emergency mode which makes it shift really strange and only runs in a few gears. Pulled it out and cleaned the contacts and it has worked ever since.

down the trans dipstick tube

you will never get it down the dipstick tube theres a plug on the trasfer case it self its a bigger Allen wrench its the top one

Try looking into the idle valve. If you remove it and twist it back and forth, you should here a metallic clicking. If the clicking sounds muffled, try spraying carb. cleaner down inside to clean it out. Ultimately you will want to replace it if it is bad, but this will aid you in diagnostics. Good luck.

If this does not correct the problem, you should consider taking the car in to be diagnosed at a BMW dealership. I held out on a similar problem until the car stalled so often I couldn't drive it. Turns out the crank shaft position sensor failed. If I had not had it diagnosed correctly the first time, I would have wasted money fixing more "common" problems; and the car still wouldn't have run.

787

# 13 15 amp fuse in Central Junction Box

The two bolts on the rear must be loosened (but not removed). The front Bottom bolt must be loosened (but not removed). The front top bolt must be removed completely. At this point be VERY careful because the battery is heavy enough to injure you if it falls. I recommend carefully lifting it with a floor jack if you are not confident of your strength.

You must then simultaneously lift the front of the battery about 1/4" in order to the have the front bolt slide out of its slot as you slide the battery forward. As you do this; the rear two bolts will easily fall out of their slots and the battery will be completely ready to lower for service.

This advice is based on my 2007 Ford E350 Econoline.

Under the dash