Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is basically a rheostat. Here is how Merriam Webster defines it: ; Main Entry: : rheo·stat ; Pronunciation: : \ˈrē-ə-ˌstat\ ; Function: : noun ; Date: : 1843 : a resistor for regulating a current by means of variable resistances

Basically, the TPS offers variable resistance depending on the winding or unwinding of its actuator. When you goose the throttle, or take your foot off the gas, the TPS tells your vehicle's computer where the throttle is. Look under your hood at your fuel rail or throttle body. on one side you will see the terminus of the throttle cable and the cam around which the cable is wound. Directly on the opposite side of the throttle body from here, you will see the TPS.

did you look at your bulbs

LEAK TESTING A FORD/LINCOLN AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM

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The Ford shop manual recommends performing a soapy water solution for air suspension leak testing. While this is the absolute sure-fire way to leak test, if you don't have the right equipment and/or experience, the results of your test may not be conclusive. The equipment I'm speaking of is not the soapy water solution, but more the vehicle lifting equipment needed to allow you to get under the car and see most of the air spring/strut...."WHILE THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS ON THE AIR SPRINGS/STRUTS". An example of this would be a front end rack. The kind of rack that is used to align a vehicle and that the technician has to drive the car up onto. If the rear of the car is on the ground, you can't safely get under it to visibly see all around the air spring/strut. Using a front end rack, you can lift the vehicle up in the air and safely see the entire rubber bladder while performing the test. The problem is, most novice mechanics don't have access to a front end rack. With that being said, I have a much easier and safer approach to leak testing. I will explain this later on, but first I want to explain a few things.

First of all, the rubber used on the air spring/strut gets dry rotted mostly on the fold of the rubber, or where the rubber folds around on the bottom. This folded area of the rubber gets the blunt of the punishment and dry rots at a much faster rate than the rest of the rubber. Because this area dry rots faster than the rest, this is where your leak is going to be 99.9% of the time.

The reason the air spring/strut will leak sometime and not others, has allot to do with temperature and most importantly, where the fold of the rubber is. The area of the rubber that's on the fold, will change with vehicle height. In other words, the fold of the rubber will be in a different area while the car is being driven (city height) as opposed to when it is sitting still (vented or parked height). If the dry rotted area of the rubber is "On the Fold", this will open up any cracks in the rubber and allow air to escape.

Keep in mind that ALL the air springs/struts have their own solenoid. The solenoid acts as a gate for air. No air should go in or out unless the solenoid is opened up by the module. By turning the suspension switch off, your disabling the solenoids, thus no air should escape....unless of course theres a leak.

THE "EASY WAY" TO FIND A LEAK

By far, the easiest way to test for a leak, is to allow the car to vent down after shutting off the engine and opening and closing the door.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE CAR HAS LOWERED PRIOR TO TURNING THE SUSPENSION SWITCH OFF, OR THE TEST WON'T BE ACCURATE!

If nothing else, wait 5 minutes after you turn the ignition off...then turn the suspension switch off. The car should have vented by then.

After this, turn the suspension switch off and measure the height of the 4 corners of the car with a tape measure and write it down.

Now drive the vehicle for a few days.

If the vehicle has a leak, the car should go down after driving.

NOTE: Depending on the severity of the leak, it may take more than one day to leak down. This is the case more times than you would think.

By all means, if the car goes down after 10 minutes of driving, turn the switch back and resume your journey. You have answered your question.

Want to replace the strut yourself? Click HERE for instructions.

COULD IT BE JUST A SOLENOID LEAK?

Its been my experience as a former Ford/Lincoln factory trained and certified technician, that if the solenoid has never been removed before, most likely the leak isn't from the o-rings that seal the solenoid to the air spring/strut. Now if the solenoid had EVER been removed before, the o-rings should have been replaced at that time. If you have an old o-ring that has never seen the light of day and all of the sudden, after 10 years of being cooped up, it is released from tension, it will expand. If reused, it WILL eventually cause a leak . It might take a day, a month, or even a year, but it WILL leak at some time down the road.

In other words, if you replace your air springs, make sure you replace the 2 x o-rings that seal the solenoid to the air spring/strut. If you don't, its not a matter of "IF" it will leak, but more like "WHEN". It would be in your best interest to also replace the little o-ring that seals the air line to the solenoid at the same time. Because this o-ring is AFTER the actual sealing part of the solenoid, if this o-ring leaks, it will only affect the operation of the system while the solenoid is opened, like when the module is making a height adjustment. Not while sitting overnight!

AIR SUSPENSION PARTS - AIR SUSPENSION HELP

We offer parts for factory air suspension equipped vehicles and/or coil spring conversion kits for these models:

Lincoln Mark VII, Lincoln Mark VIII, Lincoln Town Car, Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Marquis, Ford Expedition, Lincoln Navigator, '88-'94 Lincoln Continental, '95 & '96 Continental, Lexus, Cadillac, Subaru, Chrysler, Range Rover

MAILING ADDRESS

AMERICAN AIR SUSPENSION

P.O. BOX 336

Del Rio,TN. 37727

423-487-4321

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DO THIS ONLY ON EMERGENCIES!!

You should CAREFULLY get under the SUV, close to where the spare is supposed to be (the rear part of the vehicle) and then look for the plastic covered (or not) steel wire that pulleys the spare down and cut it.

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL because just right after you do this the spare tire will fall down to the floor.

Obviously i wouldn't recommend doing this if its not an emergency, because the levering system that rolls the spare tire up and down will be screwed after you do this and you would need to replace it in order to get it functional again.

If its not an emergency then do this.

Go to the nearest Pep boys and ask anyone there what to do. They will be able to fix it up or to replace the whole system in no time.

You do not listen to the idiot up above, you do not cut anything. You take the jack arm from under the hood and above the license plate there is a hole where you insert jack arm and turn.