Ford Granada

the tab should be on the diff

THE TORQUE SPEC IS 75FT/LB USING ARP BOLTS

14"

with great difficulty a long screw driver up past the rad or mole grips on the cable if it still attached to release bit of bonnet find another and look where you need to put screw driver would help

Depends what engine it has- in 78 only the straight 6 and 302 V8 were available the 351 V8 was dropped---it was only available from 75-77

The Ford_Granada_(North_America) was built and marketed in North America from 1975 to 1982

1-5-3-6-2-4 Distributor rotates clockwise.

I researched this because I needed spares for mine and was looking for a donor vehicle, the estate version 2.8v6i which was mainly used by undertakers goes for between £800 & £1000 on eBay but I have seen them on classic car mags for up to £1200. The saloon model with the normal 2L I've seen go for around the same, condition doesnt seem to matter much either, I was looking at selling mine this year as I use it as an advertising vehicle and need a bigger car and I'll probably advertise at £950, theres one the same as mine advertised near Llanelli which does not have an MOT and needs a lot of work advertised at the same £950, real value or wishful thinking, Im not sure but this is around the average price on eBay

Not sure how old this question is but I figured I would pass on any info I have. I just replaced the heater core in my 78 Granada yesterday...it was a BEAR of a job but in all, took about 5 hours.

First thing to do is remove the bolts from the dashboard. There is on screw on the drivers side defrost vent and one screw on the passenger side defrost vent. Once these are removed you then need to remove the bolts under the lip of the dash. I started on the passenger side and moved along the dash to the driver's side removing the bolts.

Once these have removed you can lift and pull out the top of the dash. Next you will need to remove the mounting bolts.

Now that the top of the dash is of you will be able to see two large mounting bolts for the dash. Thre is one on the far right passenger side and one on the far left driver's side. Start by removing these bolts. There are more mounting bolts to remove but I removed the glove box next. Open the glove box and remove all of the mounting screws. The glovebox should slide right out.

Next I continued removing the dashboard mounting bolts. There is one at the bottom of the pasenger side dash. Just follow the lines of the dashboard down toward the floorboard and you will see it.

There is another bolt at the bottom of the dash at about the middle. You can only see it if you are looking up at it from the floorboard (You'll need to contort yourself a little bit for this whole process:-) The last mounting bolt is the one at the bottom of left of the driver's side.

At this point I removed the two screws from the speaker mount in the top center of the dash. You should now be able to lift the dash up and pull it toward you. To make sure you get the most "play" in the dash you will also want to remove the vent control on the passenger side. There are two screws holding the vent handle in place simple remove these two screws and let the handle hang down.

Now that the dash is lose you need to remove the plastic air duct from the passenger side. There are 2 screws holding this in place. One at the top and one at the bottom. Once these screws are removed you can pull the duct out through the glove box opening. Once the duct is our you can look through the glove box opening and see the blower for your heater. The blower is enclosed in a plastic housing that is roughly 2 - 3 feet long. THis plastic housing is the entire heating unit. Inside this plastic housing is your heater core. To remove this plastic housing you have to remove 3 nuts from the inside of the engine compartment.

Looking into the engine compartment you will see 3 brass looking screws and bolts sticking through the firewall. THere are two toward the top of the engine compartment and one lower in the middle. Remove all three nuts.

Next you'll need to remove the hoses from the heater core. These hoses can easily be seen when looking at the top of the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

Once the nuts and hoses are removed you can get back in the passenger side of the car and pull the heater unit from the firewall. The easiest way to remove the heating unit is to first remove the air ducts that point the heat toward your feet. This is found attached to the bottom of the heating unit. There are 2 clams and one screw to remove from this duct. You an pop the clams out with a flat head screw driver and then reach the bolt with a socket extension. Once this piece is removed it is fairly easy to slide the heat unit out.

I simply pulled the heating unit away from the firewall. Rotated the unit a bit and then pulled it out the passenger side of the car from under the dashboard. You should be able to lift the dash high enough to give you room to slide the heating unit out.

Once the heating unit is out you will see the intake/output tubes for your heater core sticking through the housing. There is a plate holding the heater core inside the heater unit. Simply remove the 4 bolts from the plate, remove the plate and slide out the faulty heater core.

Once you place the new heater core back in the unit and secure the plate the real fun begins...reassembling everything.

I would recommend finding a system of separating your bolts/screws so you know where they go when you begin the reassembling process.

Hope this helps!

There are 2 flasher relays mounted in the same location. Both are located under the dash on the driver's side mounted on the passenger side of the steering column.

under and behind the glove box hard to find but its there same as the 98-2002 euro ford cougar

The 81 Granada is the same chassis as the T-birds and mustangs of that era, known as the fox body or fox chassis. The dash board is held on by about 10 or so bolts and screws. Start by removing the center console, than pry off the defroster duct cover witha screw driver or even your hand. Under the defroster panel on the top of the dash, you will expose about five screws, they sould be Phillips heads but may be 9/32 hex as well. Remove these screws. Also remove the passenger and driver kick panels (picture where tour feet are when sitting in the seat). To do this, you will need to remove the door sill trim, than the kick panel itself. This will expose two bolts that hold on the dash board as well, they should be 10mm hex headed bolts. You will also benifit from dropping the steering column from the bottom side of the dash, should be four 9/16 hex headed bolts that allow the steering column to drop. After dropping the column, you should be able to lift slightly on the dash to expose the heater box. Under the hood, remove the clamps and hoses attached to the heater core. Under the dash, there are several small screws that hold the top on the heater box, you may need to remove more screws from the engine side of the firewall to move the heater box to the point where you can get your fingers and sockets on these small screws. After removing the screws, lift off the box top, exposing the heater core itself. Pull the heater core out, and replce with new one, being sure to not damage it. Put it all back together in reverse order of removal, and enjoy your new heat...

There is no such engine as a 2.0 V6. The V6 in the Granada in 1982 was a 3.8 L. Look at the link below and pick the correct engine.

.34-.36

Check your owners manual. If you don't have one copy & paste this link. http://www.genuineservice.com/genuineservice/en/gloveboxresults

My 1995 Ford Explorer XLT , 4x4 , automatic had a shipping weight of 4,053 pounds

For a 200 cubic inch / 3.3 liter inline six cylinder engine in a 1982 Ford

Granada :

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 )

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces AWAY from the engine

The engine cylinder locations are numbered 1 to 6 , from front to rear

The intake on the 1979 Ford 302 engine is different than the intake on the 1993 Ford 302 engine. The intakes are not interchangeable.

I never drove a Triumph Dolomite but drove my Fathers Mark 2, litre Granada when I was young and it was much more powerful and faster than equivalent BMW,s and Mercedes , but the Triumph may have been lighter, the 2 litre Granada made 0-60 in about 10 seconds which was very good for such a heavy car at the time

According to my Chilton's Auto Repair Manual :

( 19.2 U.S. gallons )

* if you have the 250 six cylinder or the 302 V8 , certain models have an

( 18.2 U.S. gallon tank )

The fuse box is under the bonnet at the back of the engine bay, near to the windscreen.

Around 2900-3000 lbs

there could be sevaral things to check 1 fuse for those lights 2 bulbs and sockets 3 on the side of the transmission there should be an electrical plug. that plugs into your reverse indicator switch. so when you put the car in rev. it sends elec. to the lights. you might need that switch. 4 last check to see if you shifter is in the correct place when the lights should be on sometimes if you wiggle the shift or move it off the ( r) it will send the signal to the rev. lights

288lb/ft to 334lb/ft

250 cubic inch - straight 6 cylinder - ( .050 inch ) 302 cubic inch - V8 - ( .050 inch / .060 inch in California )