To change the belt just loosen off the big nut around the ajuster with an appropiate spanner or shifter. This will slacken the belt off. Remove belt. Put new belt on. To adjust the belt get an appropriate double hex spanner and put it on the inner adjuster and turn it until the right amount of tension is applied and the then whilst holding the belt tight, just tighten the outer nut and it's all done.
A large c-clamp works great. You can get a cheap one for 3 or4 $ (You might want to protect the inner caliper surface with a block of wood)
I have an oversized pair of Channel-lock pliers that I use mainly for plumbing jobs, that work absolutely great for compressing the 2 cylinders on the caliper. The clamp works fine, but no screwing with the pliers, just squeeze. In order to release the pressure on the system to allow you to compress the caliper, you must remove the cap on the master cylinder. Otherwise you can't do it. Squeeze slowly, so that brake fluid doesn't squirt out. Then replace the master cylinder lid when you are done.
I THINK 84 - 89
check your manual
ask haynes to make a manual they say to me not a lot of daewoos were made but they might make them ie there is a demamd
Thanks to Radu Demene over at Daewoo Romania, I was able to get my hands on an ENGLISH Cielo User Manual.
Radu, you're my hero!!
NaZz == ==
There is a fuse box under the hood just behing the battery on the drivers side. The labels for which fuse is which should be printed on the fuse box lid. It will prpbably need to be cleaned off, however. There is another fuse box inside the passenger compartment at the left of the feet of the driver. My 98 had a sticker on the inside of the little door with the diagram printed on it. If all you are looking for is which fuse is which for a 98 Elantra I can take a pic of it for you or something. send me an e-mail at email@example.com. put Elantra Fuses in the subject line somewhere. Otherwise, I just always assumed it was in the manual somewhere. This is the official Hyundai Service Page: www.hmaservice.com
I think he means an F350 you nubs... and it depends SRW or DRW, i have both and my max on receiver hitch is 12,000lbs, my fifth wheel on is 22,000(DRW) and 20,000(SRW) and my gooseneck is 30,000 both ways SRW and DRW cuz that is about the strongest hitch made is a gooseneck rated up to 32,000 and that's way pushing on a 350 anyways but my 350 can handle the full 27,ooo the gooseneck with add-a-leafs /w air ride supension helping. does that help you? I wouldn't recommend trying to pull that max on fifth wheel or gooseneck without major improvements on supension and of course your drivetrain a strong clutch, a good strong torque converter for your engine, etc. and ofcourse use of trailer brakes is the smartest choice, doesnt matter one bit if you can pull it if you cant stop it so yeah use trailer brakes. i have an engine made to pull, the 7.3L PSD wouldn't recommend any other diesel :)AnswerDepends on what vehicle it is in and what the h.p. & torque of it is. GM 350 engines come in many different degrees of power. Answerdepends what the engine has done to it
THE GVWR AND GVW IS LOCATED ON THE ID STICKER IN THE DRIVER DOOR JAM.
It is in the center of the throttle body. It must be unscrewed after removing all hardware.
Diesel does not have a throttle body. on 6.0L one is on the frame on driver side and the secondary filter is on the top front center of the engine behind the charge air cooler tube ( use a 1/2in ratchet in the top of the cap)
on 7.3L PS engine mounted top front center
How do you override ford transit deadlocks?
I have researched the web and my own car. It appears the known problem with the headlamps problem is a simple "bad connection" on an eleven wire plastic plug located under the dash very near the fire wall and near the driver's side. If you look at a white colored plastic connection with about 11 wires in it you should see a "burnt" or arking appearance on the plastic and wire. It is this connection that causes the headlamp failure when you turn on the switch. Good luck, it really isn't too hard to locate and simple to fix. After replacing the combination switch in my '96, and having the problem recur after a few months, I bought new headlights, plain old halogens. The problem has not recurred since. Seems that something in the old lights was tripping the breaker in the combo switch. - tjd ir all your lights go out ,replace the the daytime running light module.
There are two hex-shaped plastic (unfortunately) bolts at the rear of each light assembly. 1 is for vertical and 1 is for horizon adjustments. Can't remember which is which, but I do know that the plastic bolts can snap easily, and can be very difficult to move.
There is a fault in the negine management system, should have it checked before trying to drive it too far.
in the variator take it apart n pull out the old rollers n put in the new 1's
Uh, supposedly it is 2,000 lbs. uh don't try it! you have got to stop too!
maybe light utiliry trailer like the $500.00 ones at home-depot sell, carrying a lawnmower,but that's about it.
The tow rate was 3500 lb maximun and only recommend for 5-speed manual transmission. Remember that with a trailer on, you're expect to leave at least a car driving space in front of you incase you break and it depends on your tow weight.
For towing off-road like gravel road, the ABS activate a lots but for my experience I was driving at about 30/35 mph on rough gravel road with 2WD. Last, you need to down shift more than just break alone. It help you lower your speed for shorter duration, prevent ABS activatation, and help stop quicker.
I've been driving my 1997 Kia Sportage 2WD with 187k offroad with my toy due to it's fuel mileage, 24 mpg with minimum reving and speeding, seat 5, gears, and foods. Depends on your passenger and tow rate, my least was 250mpg/12 gal tank (288mpg max)
The trailer is SnowBear 4.5X8 @350 lb dry weight and a 2005 Bombardier Outlander 400 Max @ 700 lb. Freeway speed is good which you can still drive around 70-80 mph. Uphill climb is fair. With 2wd, steep uphill require some lower gear and driving skills/knowledge.
its an escort don't tow with it get a truck
Oil viscosity is dependant on manufactures tests. This is fine for your engine I used to use 10w-30 now I use 5W-30 the 305 likes the 5w-30,it has more pep and gets better milage. I live in TX. I have a stock '87 Camaro LT with the 305 & 4BBL Carb. and Auto Transm...I bought my Camaro with 99,000 miles on it 8 years ago and I have used 5W-30 Oil in the mild North Central Idaho winters and straight 30 in the summer time, until now. I will continue to use 5W-30 all of the time now. No reason in partucular other than maybe the price of the oil and will perform more frequent oil changes (3 months versus 4-5 months). 5w-30 will work fine in your van
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engine oil ford transit 2000 on is sae 30
Do an Internet search for a 2010 Ford Transit Connect Body Builders Layout Book.
Your owners manual will contain the answer. If you don't have one, a salvage yard is a good place to find one. You can also order one from your local dealer. I've got the same question, but I know a few more variables. Engine size and rear differential ratio will affect towing capacity. So will other payload within the vehicle. I've seen 6000-7500 lbs listed on other sites, so there's a range of possibles. I got this from the Chevy website. They have vehicles specs archived back to 1996
Suburban 1500 2WD 350 CID V-8:
Curb Weight - 4820
CVWR - 7700
Payload - 1980
Max Trailer - 6500
Suburban 2500 2WD:
Curb Weight - 5286
CVWR - 8600
Payload - 3314
Max Trailer - 10000
The 350 has 255 HP and 330 ft-lbs. 6500-7000 lbs trailer sounds like about all you'd want to try with it.
Change the pre=heat (glow plug) relay.
* operator-based measures, relating to ridership and economic factors; * vehicle-based measures, such as roadway capacity and traffic signal delay; and * passenger-based measures, also referred to as "quality of service," that relate to the comfort and convenience and the availability of transit service.
Check the fuse first. Another possibility might be the relay in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger side. When you work the light stalk switch to turn on/off the parking lights, you should hear the relay click on/off in the front. If not the problem could be a bad relay, bad/corroded connection between the wire and relay, or a break in the wiring. On a 95 I had, a small pinhole in the wire insulation to the relay coil caused the wire to corrode. The wire eventually corroded in half. I just cut out the bad part and spliced it back together to fix it. sounds like a blown fuse, if the fuses are alright then use a multimeter to check the wires for 12v +. if that is fine then you have a bad ground for the system. if you don't have powere3 going to it you have a short somewhere before the power goes into the fuse panel.
if its a new shape its under the drivers seat pull the seat forwads and get at it from behind
if its the old shape (smiley) its under the bonet drivers side
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