yea the same one that it had u can probably get it at Pontiac dealer ship or at the junk yard
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Well there isn't necessarily a radio with that feature but you can buy an adapter for it. The one I ended up getting was the PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Controls Interface. It worked out perfectly for me. But be sure to read about it first and make sure that it is compatible with your new stereo.
A 1997 Grand Am (GT or SE) could either have a 2.4L Quad-4 or a 3.1L V-6.
1. The a/c system may be low on freon because on R134a systems being just a couple of ounces low can cause this..
2. The evaporator may be restricted, if so then it will need to be replaced..
3. In side a/c - heater control doors are leaking and or not working correctly..
Loose wire?
1)If that doesnt work then after you remove the plastic cover and take off the nut...which is 13mm size, your going to need to get like channel locks or vice grips and pull the wiper arms off. 2)Once they are off, remove the cowl cover. You might need to get a small screwdriver and pry up the plastic screw and get a needle nose plier and pull the screw out and then the other little plastic thing the screw went into you have to pry out as well...it's not hard. 3)Then once you remove the screws, remove the lining strip and disconnect the wiper hose. 4)Now once the cowl cover is removed you'll see another plastic cover on the driver side. Remove that. There's a little white plastic thing holding it down. Take that off. Be careful because it might tear. If it does don't worry then it makes it easier to remove the cover. 5)Now you see a black plastic cover covering the gears and stuff. That just pops off. Take that off. 6)Now there's this torx head screw, just break it lose. Once its broken loss that whole gear thing will turn freely from the motor. You'll see an arm that stick up at an angle from the gear.It should be sticking up and to the right. It should be connected to another arm that actually pushes and pulls the blades. Turn the gear so that the arm is turned to the bottom left position. You might have to adjust it just a little to one side or the other but its in that general direction. 7) Once its set in that direction, re tighten the torx headed screw. Now put one blade on to see if its set correctly. Now if its not set correctly just adjust the wiper arm or readjust the gear. 8) Once you have it set. Do everything in reverse when you put it back together and you should be okay.
olds wiper problemif you pry off the plastic cover on the wiper blades- there will be a large nut- if this is not tightened down enough it will let the wipers shift from the original setting and even strip out some of the aluminum around the hole reposition the blade in the right spot and re tighten the nut
For the perfectionistIf you'd rather do it without breaking things, go get a re manufactured wiper motor assembly and replace it, assuring that the holes in the arms aren't stripped out.
I just replaced mine on a 97 cav z24 on 01/24/09. In the passenger side, remove the bottom panel that is under the glove box. On the blower motor (its circular and black you can't miss it) look for a white plug that connects to it (should be about 1/4 of an inch away from the firewall). The white plug is held to the blower by 2 5.5mm screws. Remove those 2 screws (there is one screw on each side of the plug and opposite of eachother), separate the wiring from it, connect it to the new part and replace it back in. It is a simple procedure thankfully. **You must have some sleek and small tools for the removal of the 5.5mm screws. There is extrely limited room and can't be done with a convential socket wrench or screw driver.** Let me know if you need more help with it.
the blower motor resistor is at fault.each level of fan controler needs more voltage replacement should be very cost freindly. The above answer is correct. It is more than likely the Resistor Pack. They are not that expensive, especially if you can find one at a salvage yard. The hard part is finding it. Try www.autozone.com and look in the component location section. You may find the location there. I would suspect that if you have it replaced at a dealership, it may run as high as $200. Most of this will be labor. Try removing the glove box and look around behind it. Good hunting. the location of this part is like all resistors for heating mounts to heater duct box. this being passenger side close to fire wallunder dash with two screws holding inplace close to blower motor
because the engine needs to have a 20 seconds RPMs
I am not an HVAC personel, but I have worked maintenance, and see quite a few different styles.
I guess it really depends. I have seen drain pans that have little pumps in them and it pumps the condensed water into a condensation line, and I have also seen it drained directly into a condensation line.
It really depends on how your a-coil is set, and if other a/c units are vertically stacked or in a horizontal row. If it is low to the floor and it has no drain lines near it, it will probably have a pan with a pump, but it is more efficient to have one drain, and a condensation line that stacks all the units.
I have never seen one that drained just into a pan, I'd think that would kind of defeat the purpose of extracting humidity from a building.
The steering column is connect with a shaft that runs from rack and pinion to steering column. A short shaft sticks out of rack and pinion and is attached to shaft with 1 bolt that goes thru the coupler. Usally hid under a boot that goes around the shaft.
There are two screws on the top underside that you must take out. then the bulb is attached to a wire and you can pull it down about an inch to help pull out the bulb. put in the new bulb and screw the screws back in and youre all set. -richard
(I found this answer really useful so I paste it here)
about 40-50 at the schrader valve. lower and the engine wont receive enough fuel, higher and you will have leaks soon.
THE BEST WAY IS TO SLIGHTLY ELEVATE THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, JACK IT UP, THE REASON FOR JACKING IT UP IS TO ENSURE ALL THE BUBBLE FLOAT TO THE HIGHEST POINT AND GET OUT OF THE SYSTEM. NOW MAKE SURE YOUR HEATING IS SET TO "FULL HEAT" AND TURNED ON "LOW" FAN SPEED. THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE LOCATED ON TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING, IF YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS EMPTY NOW IS THE TIME TO FIL IT UP, U SHOULD HEAR A GENTILE HISSING SOUND AS U POUR IT IN, THIS IS AN INDICATION OF THE AIR ESCAPING. WHEN U SEE THE COOLANT COME OUT THE BLEEDER U KNOW THE AIR IS GONE. TO MAKE SURE U GOT ALL OF IT OUT TURN THE ENGINE ON, WITH THE RESERVOIR CAP FOR THE COOLANT BOTTLE OFF, OPEN THE VALVE ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AGAIN, KEEP ENGINE AT IDLE DO NOT REV IT, ADDING FLUID UNTIL THERE IS A STEADY STREAM DRIPPING OUT. LET ENGINE REV UNTIL COOLING FAN GOES ON WHEN IT GOES ON U WILL PROABALY HAVE TO ADD FLUID TO THE RESERVOIR DO NOT LET IT GO LOW KEEP IT CONSTANT. ONCE THE FAN HAS STOPPED PUT CAP BACK ON RESERVOIR AND YOU'RE DONE.
Well,its sounds to me like a leak has developed possibly on the top half of the fuel tank.It could be that once the fuel has gone below the leak area you would not notice the gas smell. Lay a piece of cardboard under the fuel tank area and watch for any sign of a leak over night. Make sure your tank is full when you do this. You may have to drop the tank to repair or have your local mechanic perform the repair.
The inside fuse box is located in the glove box,pull out the front panel piece on the right side of the glove box and you will see the fuse panel.
An Ohm reading is the amount of resistance through a fuel injector. A fuel injector is a solonoid that controls fuel delivery. Inside the injector, there is a coil of wire. When you measure the Ohms across the injector, you are checking the amount of resistance in that coil of wire. Each injector manufacturer has their own acceptable measurement, so check with them for proper readings.
it really takes 6x8 for both front and rear but 5x7 will work too. they are almost interchangeable.
Start you car move it forward for a little tiny bit switch it back to park repeat till key comes out.
Remove the starter cables. Remove the retaining bolts. The starter will come off. Reverse the process to install the new starter.
A really easy way to find out is to go to Crutchfield.com and use the outfit my car option. Everything that they have especially for your car will be displayed. If you are upgrading your stereo system or installing an alarm they can supply you with instructions and ready made wiring harnesses.
Check out the following website for a heated seat installation. In it they cover how to remove the seat covers.
http://www.scacgp.com/mods/heated_seat.htm
http://www.seatcoverset.com/seatcovers-car_seat_cover.htm
hope this helps.
"G"
well, maybe you're having the same problem I'm having. sometimes the rear speaker's volume will cut out, and sometimes it'll come back on. seems random.
my brother suggested checking the connections to the back speakers for rust, or to see if they're loose. i haven't done this yet, but if i do and i can fix the problem, I'll reply back.