Honda Accord

I had a hard time before i figured out how to remove my old ignition cylinder to put in a new one... I did this because my old one ond day just stopped working... It just wouldn't turn... so I boutght a new cylinder (it comes with new keys) from auto zone... cost about $26.99.... n e way hope this post helps n e 1...

HONDA ACCORD 92 DX

First remove the 5 screws that hold the stering column with a star point screw driver (you might need a ling screwdriver)...

Remove the casing to expose the ignition assembly

Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the outer shell of the ignition cylinder (black round thing around the turnig part)

Remove the locking screw (I just used a bird beak pliers to back it out because of the odd location " it right by the middle arrow")

Put in the key and turn it to position I.. (Turn on the ignition... don't start it...)

Use a firm tool to depress the locking pin located behind the lock screw towards the stering whele shaft...

Thought U don't see my key in the ignition U MUST HAVE THE IGNITION ON!!!

while depressing the pin hold the key firmly and pull the cylinder out (rock it a but it should come right out)

I couldn't get the new one in cause the new pin on the new cylinder wouldn't depress... (when installing the new one leave the key in the on position)...

I just used a set of pliers to pluck it out... then just used the locking screw to hold it on.... dosent really matter tho...

Yes they do.

removing an axle from 98 Honda accord

CHECK FUEL CAP, TIGHTEN FUEL CAP MESSAGES

This article applies to 05-06 Accords, 06 Civics, 05-06 CRV's 05-06 Elements, 05-06 Odysseys, 05-06 Pilots, 06 Ridgelines and 06 S2000s.

"If a vehicle's fuel fill cap is loose or missing, and the ECM/PCM detects an EVAP system leak when it runs the EVAP monitor, the CHECK FUEL CAP message appears on the information display when the engine is started. A temporary DTC is also stored in the ECM/PCM's memory. If this happens, there's really no need for the owner to bring the vehicle in for service. All he or she has to do is shut off the engine and make sure the fuel fill cap is in place and it's properly tightened.

Although the owner can cycle the message from the display with the reset button, the temporary DTC that's setting the message is still there. This means the message never really goes away. It can be cycled back with the reset button and it comes on again if the ignition switch is cycled or the engine is restarted. This message keeps coming back until the EVAP monitor runs again and it finds no EVAP system leak. This could take several days, even weeks, depending on how often the vehicle is driven.

If, when the next EVAP monitor runs, the cap wasn't tightened or there's another EVAP system leak detected, the MIL comes on and the message goes off. A permanent DTC is now stored in the ECM/PCM's memory. If the owner now tightens the cap, the MIL should go off after the next EVAP monitor run, yet this could still take days or weeks. If the MIL is still on after that monitor run, then it's time to bring the vehicle in for service.

If the vehicle comes into your shop with the fuel cap messaage or the MIL on. make sure the fuel fill cap is in place and properly tightened. Record the DTC, then clear it with the HDS and run the EVAP system function test. If there's still a problem, press on with normal troubleshooting."

Starter is not seated properly and is cocked sideways. Remove and reinstall, making sure it is fully seated.

Oxygen sensor

The 1994 Honda Accord is not equipped with a cabin filter.

2

This is to prevent the car from going into gear when it is not meant to. You must have the key in the on position before you can move the vehicle out of park.

The 2009 Honda Accord's engine produces 177 hp @ 6500 rpm.

I assume you meant radio error code. -be careful- ... the dealer you got the Honda from will have a code you need to type into the stereo to unlock it. I believe you get six attempts?? .. entering in enough incorrect codes your stereo will litterally melt/self-destruct itself. Get this code from the dealer and store it in a safe place. Anytime you change your battery or the stereo gets disconnected you will need to re-enter that code or you'll junk the radio.

Hope that helps.

You have to take a flat head screw driver and pry out the clock in the middle of the two vents. Next, unclip the wired and unscrew the screw in the back then there are two screws above the shifter just unscrew them. then pull the whole cover off and undo the screws of the radio and pull it out.

The TCS light is on because you have turned the Traction Control off. Simply turn it back on by pushing the TCS Off button again on the lower left hand side of the dash next to the sunroof control.

By having a professional repair the problem with the SRS (air bags) that has triggered the light. Not a DIY repair.

In an automatic, like mine, it means that you have pressed the button on the side of the shifter to enable "sport mode." Basically, the computer will allow each gear to run at a higher RPM before shifting, resulting in better performance when accelerating. You could argue that this will also decrease your gas mileage because you are causing the engine to work harder than in has to, but I'm not sure exactly how much the fuel efficiency suffers.

Depends on why it is leaking.

If there is any oil, power steering fluid, or antifreeze on your belts it may cause them to slip and squeak regardless of how new and how tight they are. If you have a fluid leak wetting the belts, this leak must be repaired. If the fluid contamination is from any type of oil (including PS fluid) the rubber of the belts may be damaged and the belts will have to be replaced after repairing the leak.

Also, you want to be sure that it IS in fact the belts squeaking. Try running the engine with belts removed. It it squeaks without the belts in place, something else is causing the squeak. Also, with the belts removed and the engine stopped, try spinning each pulley (that the belts normally spin) and note any that make noise, feel wobbly, or have a rough (not smooth) feel to the movement.

Can your pully holding alternater belt and ect. coming loose and belts coming off cause my Honda to jump timing ?

Look at the pulley at the bottom of the engine. There is a metal pointer sticking out from the block, and the timing marks are on the pulley, where they will pass beneath or next to the metal pointer. if you haven't got the engine apart yet the mark is on the crank pulley. when you have it a part the sprocket for the crank should have a dot on it and a little triangle on the block and the head should have 2 lines on its spocket. you line those 2 lines up with the surface on the headwith the up sign up this should work if you have the enginge from 1989-86 Accord 2.0L everyone should have a manual for their vechicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the reference section for FREE to make copies of--the PRO manual has more detailed info, and may have wiring diagrams when needed...read up and fix 'em like a PRO...good luck Dave :)

if you turn your key and nothing happens just the dashboard lights come on that would be your clutch start switch. if you hear a grinding sound when trying to start vehicle or a humming sound that would be your starter.if the vehicle cranks fine but for some reason it won't start then you would look at the ignition system(spark plugs,wires,etc) as your first possible cause.

Remove the rotor. Knock out the old stud with a hammer and pin punch. Take the broken stud with you to a parts store where they can match you up with a new one.

It is the buttons on the upper console next to the dome lights that you can program to operate your garage door openers.