Masonry

Tepid means lukewarm (slightly warm). So the answer is yes, I could swim in tepid water.

Soda ash (sodium carbonate) raises pH without significantly affecting Total Alkalinity (T/A). Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) raises T/A without significantly affecting pH. pH levels below 7.0 should be corrected immediately to prevent damage to equipment and the pool surface.

What type of test reagent are you using. All reagents have a shelf life and should be at least replaced at the beginning of every season. If you just purchased it there is a chance it may have been merchandise left over from last year. Taylor testing products are the most reliable I have found. Check out their website for more tips on testing your water.

a free form pol is a pool that is made in any shape that suits the builder or the situation where it needs to fit.

Raise Your pH, Not Your Alkalinity. Here's How

Increasing the pH of the water without affecting the alkalinity is very easy, but there is a trick. With the pump motor on and water circulating, add the sodium bicarb. in the deep end of the pool and work your way around the perimeter. This will raise the pH with minimal effect on the alkalinity.

Keep your pH around 7.6-7.8, not 7.2-7.4. Most "pool experts" tell you 7.2-7.4 but they are using an index that your local water company uses which obviously should not be used for pool. There's a big difference between a water treatment system and your pool.

CORRECTION: The above answer will raise the Total Alkalinity and not the pH. Soda Ash (sodium carbonate) will raise the pH. Baking soda (sodium BIcarbonate) raises Total Alkalinity. Acid, whether muriatic or dry (sodium bisulfate) lowers the pH. Also, chlorine is about 80% efficient at a pH of 7.2 and only 40% efficient at 7.8.

CORRECTION: The first answer will do exactly what it says. It is true that soda ash can raise the pH without much happening to the TA.

You CAN raise the pH with baking soda using the above technique. How do I know? I've done it hundreds of times with my pool route in Arizona and being the pool operator for our local YMCA 80,000 gallon salt pool since 2008. 20 Mule Team Borax also works well for raising the pH. BORAX, OR SODIUM TETRABORATE

Acid, whether muriatic or dry can lower both the pH and TA. There are a couple of techniques to do it.

Chlorine is 100% effective at a pH of 5.5. At 7.2 - 7.4 it about 50% effective. 7.6 - 7.8 the chlorine is about 45% effective. Once you get above 8.0 - 8.2 does the chlorine level drop to 25% and lower.

Please just don't go through questions and answer them with this copy/paste stuff. People want real answers.

Depends on the water source, what type of pool it is, and what type of smell. Chances are once you get the chemicals in there and let it sit for a couple of days, the water will be fine. If it's particularly foul (like fecal matter), or stays smelly after the chemicals have been in it for a few days, you'd probably want to drain it and check that there's nothing wrong with the water source. Depending on what kind of smell it is, it could also just be the 'new pool scent' from the liner.

what a stupid question

You do form waves in a swimming pool. All the water on the surface moving about, are the waves. And as you can see, they go in all directions. In a perfectly still pool, a strong enough earthquake can actually move the entire volume of water and make waves very much like those at a lake or at the ocean. If enough force is applied to the entire volume of water rhythmically, you would see waves just like those in the ocean. It all boils down to how much water is being moved at one time and in what direction.

To the one who first answered - no such thing as a stupid question. But clearly you have found a way to give stupid answers.

The definition of an Olympic size swimming pool is 10 lanes each 2.5 meters wide, however to prevent the outside lanes being disadvantaged by having to compete with the waves bouncing off the sides of the pool only the middle 8 lanes are ever used.

1 Purchase a floculant from a pool shop

2 Turn of the pool filtration equipment

3 cast the floculant evenly over the surface of the water.

4 let pool settle for two days with the filtration turned of and the unit turned to waste you do not want this stuff to go through your filter.

After a couple of days you will note that all of the water except for a layer at the bottom is beautifully clear. do not disturb the layer at the bottom any more then you have to.

6 gently lower a pool vacuum into the cloudy layer on the pool floor then start the pump which should be set to waste. Then vacuum all of this layer out of the pool. you will loose about 6"/150mm to 12"/300mm of water doing this.

There are many different lengths. Many pools are 25 yards long. Some can go up to 50 meter long.

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Salt water pools produce "chlorine," so it is cheaper. It is also more troublesome. Yugos were also cheaper ... you get what you pay for.

If your chlorine generator is working properly and your salt levels are correct it will work just fine.

Though I have never been in a saltwater pool, my children have swam in several. They swear by it and insisted that ours be saltwater. I trusted their there request and went ahead to pay the extra money for something I know nothing about.

"Are saltwater pools cheaper or Better"? Really its not a Salt water Pool, bottom line is your gonna have saltwater in your pool with any type of sanitizer.Boxed chlorines are produced with sodium.

I like the easy part of the salt generator, less work and worry. Nothing beats a clean clear pool, I have been using generators for over 20 years, today's versions are light years ahead of my first unit in terms of cost and performance, you really get alot with today's modern generators at one huge value.

A chlorine generator is easy, efficient and cost effective. Of course there are cheaper ways to sanitize your pool. Most owners find they like the increased softness from a little salt in the water and it's easier to maintain a clean pool. When your not home it's especially easy and if you happen to go on vacation for a week or two.Your pool professional can recommend and professionally install the right unit for your pool.That also reminds me I know someone who doesn't have a heater for their in-ground pool no doubt they still swim.

Initially the salt system will be considerably more expensive. You have the cost of the salt cell,control panel and the salt for the pool. Over the long run though, the system will pay for itself. Salt is not used up so the only adding needed is what is lost during backwashing the filter, splashing and what people remove with them when getting out of the pool. IMO the salt system is a lot easier to maintain. once you have everything set properly, it will run and produce chlorine on its own. No more storing or handling harsh chemicals. Best part, you can leave for a month and come home to a clean pool instead of a slime pit. For more information visit howtobuildaningroundpool.com

We put in a saltwater pool and the only problem we had was we chose a limestone rock coping. The salt ate away alot of the rock and we've only had the pool four years. So last summer, I switched to chlorine and am letting the salt level gradually lower with backwashing, swimming, etc. Just be sure you use an appropriate coping material with the saltwater pool.

Add an AquaWarm Swimming Pool Cover - www.AquaWarm.org.uk I did and it works wonders.

If a pump motor receptacle is located between 6' - 10' from the inside pool wall, the receptacle must be a single twist-lock outlet, grounded, and GFCI protected. Maximum flexible cord length for pump is 3 Ft.

A crack in your swimming pool indicates a structural defect. Contact the pool manufacturer - your pool may still be under warranty, meaning you could get it repaired or replaced for free. If the pool is not under warranty, contact a pool repair specialist; you may want to get estimates from three or four people before you hire someone to make repairs.

It depends how many gallons your pool is. Once you buy your chlorinating system, the install manual will tell you how much salt to add based on how many gallons in the pool. I have an Autopilot Digital and it tells me when it needs salt. I still check it with test strips to be safe.

You take the length times the width times the depth and that will give you cubic feet. If your pool is round, you would multiply 3.14 (Pi) times the radius squared times the depth of the pool. Then multiply that by 7.48 to give you the approximate number of US gallons. The problem comes when you have irregular shapes and depths to deal with. The easiest way to work through that is to try and divide the pool into shapes and depths you can deal with. For example, if your pool is rectangular, but 3 feet deep at one end and 6 feet at the other, divide it into two rectangular (or square) shapes using the two different depths, work the formula and then add the two together. Good luck.

You will need chemicals to keep the water pH safe. Chlorine kills bacteria, algae, and other organisms in the water. You will need tools to clean debre and bgs out of the water. You will need life saving euipment too.

The ultimate longest lasting interior finish in any shotcrete ( cement ) pool, is tile. It is also astronomical in cost but if the grout is maintained properly, it will be beautiful for the next 50 years.

Second would be " Pebble Tec " yes, the brand name Pebble Tec. There are many duplicates called, River stone, pebble stone etc but if it does not say precisely Pebble Tec then its nothing but a cheap snake oil salesmans rip off .

Pebble Tec is small stones that have no sharp corners like the rip off brands. They combine a mix of white portland cement and stone and " shoot " it on the interior of your pool via a truck mounted pump. Pebble Sheen is also a good product, again, Pebble Tec Brand name. This is nothing more the even smaller stones togive you a smoother finish but the Pebble Tec finish is fine. I have had Soft White Pebble Tec in my pool fo 10 years and it looks like the day they put it in. I live in Arizona so yes, I literally bomb it with chemicals 5 months a year due to the extreme heat and sunshine and it has performed superbly.

Next up would be some sort of quartz and plaster mixture. Quartz is hard but alas, its still in the plaster family and will most definitely stain and deteriorate a lot faster then the pebble products mentioned.

Last and certainly on the bottom of the list is plaster. Marble dust and white portand cement and a few other products thrown in to hold it together and attempt to keep it white and on the wall of the pool. Very attractive when new. The marble dust gives the pool its " blue " look but like I said, it will not stay that way too long. Especially if you live in an area with Hard water.

Plaster deteriorates fast, discolors even faster and shows every stain known to man and some that are not know to man :) Not recommended for the Southwest.

Chlorine is the chemical most often used to keep swimming pools and Jacuzzis free of bacteria that can be hazardous to humans. Chlorine kills bacteria though a fairly simple chemical reaction. The chlorine solution you pour into the water breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between HOCl and OCl- is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes. The levels of HOCl and OCl- vary with the pool's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough HOCl is present and pool cleaning can take much longer than normal. Ideally, the level of pH in the pool should be between 7 and 8; 7.4 is ideal -- this is the pH of human tears. Once the HOCl and OCl- are done cleaning the pool, they either combine with another chemical, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless. Sunlight speeds these processes up. You have to keep adding chlorine to the pool as it breaks down. While the bacteria-killing properties of chlorine are very useful, chlorine also has some side effects that can be annoying to humans, and possibly even hazardous. Chlorine has a very distinctive smell that most find unpleasant, and some find overwhelming. There is also the "itch factor" -- chlorine can cause certain skin types to become itchy and irritated. The hypochlorite ion causes many fabrics to fade quickly when not rinsed off immediately after exiting the pool. This is why your swimsuit looks faded and worn so early in the summer. Extremely high amounts of chlorine gas hovering above your pool can be hazardous to your breathing. Some companies have developed alternatives to chlorine, including other chemicals and ion generators. Some of these are good alternatives, but they don't achieve the cleanliness, oxidation levels or low price that chlorine provides.

If the pool belongs to the Tenant then the Tenant will have to insure it.

My above ground pool is 18" wide and 4" deep. Don't know if that's typical though. A: an inground pool would most likely be 15' x 30' x 8' deep - 3.5' in shallow end. Most typical is a kidney shaped in ground pool - 16' X 32' X 8' deep in center - 3.5' shallow ends

Depends on the pool: usually 25 or 50 metres.