It is hidden behind a plastic shield underneath the car, just before the rear, passenger side tire.

Take off the airbag on the steering wheel, there are 2 wires, remove the black one....I think its the black one, well remove one then see if the light is still on

The first port of call would be the manufacturer of the MX5, Mazda. Their showrooms and website will have a wealth of information regarding the MX5. Other places to look are specialist sites such as AutoTrader.

Fill the transmission filter with transmission fluid before you put the new transmission filter on. You probably will not need to add any transmission fluid.

The fuel pump for all Miatas up to 2005 is located in the fuel tank. You can access it by removing the carpet on the parcel shelf, the area where the soft top rests. You will find access to the fuel tank shield held by multiple 10mm bolts. Once that is removed, an oval-shaped cover can be found. The Fuel Pump is attached to this.

The Oil Drain Plus is on the back of the oil pan. If you lift the car, look underneath, just behind the front passenger (assuming Left-Hand drive!) wheel. You'll see the oil pan and the drain plug.

If you're looking for the Radiator Drain Plug, lift the car, and look just underneath behind the bumper. There is an oval hole about 2" long on the large plastic splash pan. You can use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the radiator plug.

The IAT sensor is located on the intake manifold air cleaning housing or air duct.

Avoid hills. :-) Seriously, you may be able to put in a cooler thermostat. There are also better (higher capacity) radiators out there. I've also read that by removing the weatherstrip at the rear of the engine compartment (atop the firewall), underhood temps are greatly reduced. Also, you may want to have the cooling system completely flushed and leak tested by a qualified shop. Your cooling fan is probably going. The bearings are worn and when the car isn't level the fan doesn't sit straight. For now you can drive back down the hill and the fan will fall forward but you will have to replace it. It's only a one hour job but you'll have to buy the whole fan assembly and that a 300ish dollar part. Try flushing the system first, and burping it correctly. It's possible there are air pockets in the system, that are being exploited when the car is under heavy load. The fan may be going, but even so, you should be able to purchase an aftermarket fan for far less that the Mazda Factory price that will work just as well. In some cases, you may just need to splice the power and ground wires from the original harness.

under the hood in the usual place

On a 1998 Cavalier, the IAT sensor is located in the hose connecting the air cleaner to the throttle body. The IAT is a two-wire sensor.

In very laymen's terms, high HC numbers mean that your fuel isn't burning off as much as it should and remainder is making it out of the tail. This is either because you're running rich (the car's ECU thinks it needs to inject more fuel in the engine), or more commonly, your car has weak spark so the fuel isn't being burned.

Miatas typically run a bit rich, but tend to respond very well to a new set of plug wires and spark plugs. The run-of-the-mill NGK blue spark plug wires and basic NGK spark plugs at $2-$3 each will work just fine for your tune-up.

The more expensive possibilities are that the sensors are now 20 years old and not giving the ECU proper information. Sensor failures on these cars commonly lead to the ECU thinking it needs to inject more fuel. Culprits may be the Air Flow Meter/Air Temp Sensor, O2 sensor, or bad EGR or IAC valves (the valves can get crudded up and seize, making the engine unable to manage incoming air). The valves can typically be cleaned with sensor-safe throttle body cleaner.

check out the below.

http://www.techguys.ca/howto/index.html

city 25mpg hwy 28-33mpg

The IAT sensor measures the temperature of the intake nmanifold. The ECM uses this sensor reading to set injection timing and adjust the air-fuel ratio. If the fuel mileage and power output of you engine seem low, some owners have found improvement in EGT, fuel economy, and power after cleaning carbon from the IAT sensor in at the rear of the intage manifold. Engine with exhaust brakes are particularly prone to IAT sensor fouling because soot is blown back into the intake during valve overlap.

The only tool you need is a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and 13/16" socket. View of IAT from above battery Closer view of the IAT sensor The IAT sensor is found on the driver's side of the engine, almost at the back of the intake manifold. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. You will need to spread the connect tab away from the sensor body to unplug the sensor. After the connector has been removed, use a 13/16" deep well socket, 6" extension, and ratchet to unscrew the sensor from the manifold. Photo of a dirty IAT sensor The sensor on the left had 20,000 miles on it, and it was covered with soot. After a shot of carburator cleaner, you can see the sensor element inside the cage. Screw the clean IAT sensor back into the manifold, torque it to 10 ft-lb, and reattach the connector. Photo of a clean IAT sensor

Normal IAT Sensor resistance values:

Temperature Resistance 30� 40K 32� 30k to 36k ohms 76� 13K ohms 77� 9k to 11k ohms 81� 6.87K ohms 122� 3k to 4k ohms 130� 4K ohms 167 600 to 675 ohms 212 600 to 675 ohms

Replacement Sensor:

Cummins PN 3408345, around $28.

Dodge PN 05014197AA Sensor, Temperature (SEN, TEM), around $18.

Use the button on the dash to raise the headlights, remove the black plastic cover from around the headlight, unbolt the cover from the frame mechanism (IIRC).

155.7 in

No, it will not be the same. There are multiple ways to initiate a drift sequence in a car, and you would use different styles to achieve different "stunts". Search for the "Drift Bible" on Youtube. While a drift can be initiated by upsetting the weight and balance of the car, the more advanced drifting techniques involve instantaneous gearing changes and clutch manipulation to shift weight and break the rear wheels loose.

Try the automotive section in your local library.

My 96 would do the same thing intermittently. The fault code was something like "secondary bank lean". I looked for a vacume leak, was advised to change the computer and finally I just turned up the idle a little bit and have had no problems since. It still passes the emission tests so I'm not going to mess with it anymore.

It is hidden behind a plastic shield underneath the car, just before the rear, passenger side tire.

See the following site for details:

http://sites.google.com/site/redcapsmiata/tutorials/fuel-filter-replacement

Feet well on the drivers side. First find some way to get down there then once underneath the plastic look against the drivers side wall and you'll see mostly blue fuses labeled "15"