Mazda MPV

That depends on why you need to charge it, assuming the system had some type of repair done and working forward from there:

1. Ensure the proper amount of oil is in the system, if you change an oil capacity component (evap, condenser, accumulator, compressor) you will need to add oil;
2. Evacuate the system to -30psi, maintain that vacuum for at least 30 minutes (pump connected and functioning);
3. Leak test the system, shut down the pump (close the valves) and watch for pressure change over 15 minutes;
4. Charge the system with the required amount of refrigerant; monitor pressures (both low and high) for other system problems; system should be charged with engine running and cooling set to MAX. Make sure pressure/temperature does not go below 35F during rev; less WOT trigger.

Charging a system requires you to understand the system; the low side cannot go below 35 F or the evap will freeze water and the system will fail - this is 'at engine rev' not idle. The pressures invovled are relative to temperature, the high side should NEVER go above 400, and it is normally offset by ambient temperature plus the difference of evap cooling.

It takes time as you can't get to if from above because of the exhaust manifold and from below because of the transfer case. The shop manual only talks about the 2WD because it does not have transfer case and that cost my sister to pay a dealer $700 to replace on her 2WD MPV.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove the skid plate and bottom cover.

1. Take off the powersteering and alternator belt. Remove power steering pulley by taking off the nut and the pully comes off the fluted shaft. This required in an alternator replacement as the pulley blocks the alternator hanger bolt.

2. Remove the power steering pump and be careful where you disconnect the plumbing because you cause the pump valve to fall out if you remove the bottom hose connection from the bolt on the bottom of the pump.

3. Disconnect the electrical connections and remove the alternator.

4. Remove the transfer case drive shaft to get the angle to remove the starter bolts.

5. Now that you have a front access to the starter, disconnect the electrical connections now or after you drop the starter.

6. Remove the starter bolts from the transmission side.

Take a break or wait till the next day.

7. Replace the starter and this might take two persons. One to hold the starter in place. I stuck some towels under the starter to hold it in place to reinstall the starter bolts. Be sure to reconnect the electrical connections as in the removal.

Taking my time, it took two sessions as I wanted to be refreshed for the reinstall.

It is not hard, but tedious and dirty and you have to move around to get to the different things.

I used a Napa rebuilt and am happy with it. A friend of mine finally used a Napa rebuilt for his 77 Ford F250 diesel and found it to be stronger than your lifetime guarantee ones.

By the way, I found that replacing the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket got rid of the ticking lifer noise at startup. Finally did it because it blew and the the usual reason for curing the ticking problems because it sounds like lifter noise is replacing the cam shaft. The center port is higher than the two ends, probably because of warpage and broke the firewall manifold bolt. Used an Arkasas milling machine to reduce the difference. (A flat bastard file)

While you have the manifold out, it would be a good time to replace the heater hose that is in the same area and is unreachable otherwise.

Mazda issued a recall for the 2002-2003 MPV Fan Control Module (one module controls both fans). It consistently went bad. I have a 2004 MPV, and though it was not a part of the recall, the cooling fan began behaving erratically several weeks ago. It would seem to run loudly and often even when idling and whether or not the A/C was on. It would even run loudly when the van was first turned on and the engine was still cold. It would often continue to run even after the engine was turned off and the key removed.

After doing some research, I concluded that the fan control module must have failed in mine like so many other people's did. I found replacement parts for around $20 plus shipping online, or about $30 from the local dealer. Since it wasn't a big difference and I wouldn't have to wait, I went with the dealer.

It took about an hour or so to replace on my own. 1) Disconnect the battery and remove it from the engine compartment. 2) Remove the pedestal that the battery sits on (it's connected with four bolts). 3) Disconnect the old FCM from it's mounting (two bolts). 4) Disconnect the three cable from the old FCM (I found it easier to use a small regular screwdriver to press down on the interior connector 'fingers" from the direction opposite the cables). 5) Reconnect the cables, then the mounting bolts, reinstall the battery pedestal and the battery.

This seems to have fixed the problem. No more high running fans or running while the engine is off. I only hope the replacement part doesn't similarly go bad...