Mazda RX-7

The impellers on the water pump could be rusted out and you're not getting coolant flow. The head gasket could have blown out if the engine overheated. Overheating the engine, especially many of the more "flimsey" foreign engines, will cause the head to warp resulting in head gasket failure. You can get a test strip that will sense carbon monoxide in the coolant. If you find carbon monoxide in the coolant, the head gasket is leaking. nope rotarys dont have head gaskets !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or pistons either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! check for air in system. radiator has bleed valve on the side of inlet pipping (top hose) undo valve and fill coolant until it comes out of bleed valve, close bleed valve and top coolant off, to better insure that air is out of system, due to angle of that means raise front end of vehicle make shure that rad cap is off and heater is on at full blast hot, start engine and let it run until air is out of system and thermostat is fully opened, can determined by bubbles coming up in radiator fill housing (where the rad cap goes) once coolant all goes down and is at constant flow then thermostat is fully opened, shut off engine top off and cap it up.

I had the exact same problem. I own a 1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE and what i did was bought a new starter. A new starter actually will start a flooded RX-7. But if you dont want a new starter then push the car and the car will start. now the rough start is related with the seals and oil. the oil is low or bad and/or you need new seals.

Follow the + battery cable should connect at relay

They do not run cold. It must be completely warmed up before driving or you can damage the engine. Just a peculiarity of the engine.

the hazards are above the light overdrive switch to open the headlights on the dash and the turn signal is on the left side of the steering column.

Yes you can. It is expensive and needs quite a bit of part switching from the transmission to the clutch, stick, but can be done.

it is essentially the same thing as a piston ring in a piston engine. there is one at each tip of each rotor, and they sit ontop of a spring that keeps them pushed against the rotor housing to seal each combustion chamber off.

obd 2

my ones on my fc3s weigh roughly 6.4pounds

Ahura Mazda. The west Asia god of wisdom.

1997 logo. Winged "M" stretching it's wings for the future.

If you have a carburetted engine, check the coasting valve. The vaccuum inside the valve can get a hole in it making a terrible honking noise. The coasting valve is to the right of the carburetor below the air cleaner. To check it, get your engine idling and disconnect the air line between the coasting valve and the air cleaner and put your finger over the line to make sure it isn't drawing air in. Disconnect the shutter solenoid valve. (on mine it's the yellow one) and then put your finger over the line again, this time it should be drawing air and idling roughly and at the same time the coasting valve rod should be pulled in by the suction. If it doesn't do these things your coasting valve is hooped. I hope that helps!

It is not a Plumbing item. It is a kitchen gadget for beating eggs (for example). Smaller than an electric mixer, it works about the same, but manually: held with one hand, and a hand crank turned with the other. Like 2 whisks that rotate meshing into each other.

I belive so to be safe try some on your car first my girl friend has a 1995 Mazda 626 stock rim size was 15" and she has 18' on it now you might have some issues with the wheels rubbing on sharp or wide turns but then again the tires on her car are kinda big

the list of things that could cause this is huge:

1 OMP is bad and your engine is over heating/starting to seize.

2 Catalytic converters are getting clogged and restricting air flow

3 Vacuum lines are bad

4 Air intake is sucking in hot air

5 Engine needs a rebuild

6 Transmission is out of fluid

7 electrical short

8 Battery is old and overheating

I would start with replacing the battery and then have a shop take a look......

Tis a sign of a worn motor. A New one will fix all related probs. Recco cotact rotary eng wiz. in ur area. Try RX club for suggestions. Pete D.

check how easily your alternator spins. it should turn pretty freely

also make sure youre using the proper size belt and not under/overtightening it

yeah a lot of people put a "small block" V8 in them so a V6 should be no problem.

My '96 Voyager, w/ 2.4L & 3 speed hydraulic tranny wouldn't go in reverse. I replaced with a rebuilt tranny. I took the old one apart recently to save the internals & do a forensics exam (discarding case since top mount broke in an accident years ago). I found that the rear piston had a torn rubber ring. That likely caused the problem since the rear band controls 1st & reverse. It could have torn from a burr on a side hole, but the rubber looks too soft. I suspect the rubber ring was damaged by adding "stop leak", which I recall I tried since the front seal had been leaking. It didn't fix the leak and I think they work by swelling rubber parts. I will never use it again. I probably caused the front seal leak by beating the crankshaft pulley with a sledgehammer (long story - inadvertently swaged crank to pulley during a timing belt change). I think you can remove the rear piston with the tranny in the vehicle. I didn't pay real close attention, but I think you would have to remove the valve body. Re-installing is trickier than old RWD Torqueflites, as I recall you have to reach above the valve body and pull a spring lever back on the shift detent cam, requiring 3 hands. Anyway, with the piston exposed (after removing band lever), you need to remove a large circlip. I was able to so using needle-nose pliers. You have to wiggle the clip around the piston cover while compressed and it kept popping off my pliers. The proper tool would make it easy. I haven't checked how to get a replacement rubber ring or piston assembly.

location for fuel pump is in the gas tank and there is no need to drop the fuel tank because on the floor board there is an access hole with a thin metal plate you can get to by pulling up the carpet in the back of the car with 8 Phillips head screws.

A rotary mower is a good mower for a medium sized garden.

Two seats here in the US. European and Japanese Second Generation RX-7's had a rear bench in place of storage bins for a total of four occupancies. These back seats could only fit legless midgets though :-\

Blatantly taken from: http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/battery_electrical/ques037_1.html

"If a fuse keeps blowing, it usually means something is amiss in the circuit. The wiring should be checked along with the components in the circuit to determine if there's a short or other problem."

I would start tracing the wires, if a majority of dash related systems are not working, you may have a mouse problem (friend of mine just had mice in his garage and they would get up in the engine and chew the wires), but regardless, try to follow the wire and see if you can find a damaged section. Getting in to steering columns can be quite a pain and I know a few people that have ended up spending more money than they would have originally. So I would recommend finding a reputable auto shop or one that specializes in electrical work.

only with alot of money for mounts and you also have to cut the frame and all that crap

in otherwords no it wont if you want a 79 motor you might as well just get a 79 rx7 its well worth it to do that anyways its lighter

It depends on how many lugs there are. If they areboth 5 lug than it will fit. If the 87 is 4 lug then you would have to change the hubs to 5 lug.

they dont make any.... the only kind you can get are the stock S4 or S5 style tail-lights