Mazda

Mazdatruckin.com has a schematic for the B2600i vacuum lines in their tech section, it includes 4wd and cruise control devices. See the attached links below.

remove the plastic coverings from around the steering wheel (3 screws on the bottom), turn the ignition to the running position and take a small screwdriver and move the pin up on the bottom of the ignition cylender and pull it out.

dunno if my explanation is detailed enough... oh well.

remove exhaust manifold remove intake manifold remove upper radiator hose remove ground wire at rear of head also the radiator hose bracket at rear of head remove valve cover, position crank and head at top dead center by aligning all arrows up crank up and upper pully on cyl1 and pointing up remove timing belt at this time now remove all 10 cyl. head bolts atarting at the front two now middle of head and work out in 1/4 turn amounts till loose. chears chaz g. sfv !

1st depends on the driver and transmissions. But my RX-8 is better at 0 to 60.

check your VIN. if the first letter is "J" then it is made in Japan. ?I have a 2008 Mazda 3 and it has a "J" as the first letter.

----Rob

.044

Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3

Mazda is the name of the car manufacturing company that produces Mazda vehicles. As of the present day, they have factories in Japan, Thailand. Vietnam, Malaysia, Russia, China and Mexico

Had the same problem with mine. Jiggled the headlight switch and now they work. I suspect the headlight switch is going.

I have the same problem, I have seen somewhere that it might be the ECM (Engine Controle Module), if you figured the problem out please help, I will keep trying and looking on my side and will post any news.

The Rotary engine, also known as the "Wankel" engine, is alive and well in Mazda's RX-8 sports car. The rotary has been used for many years by Mazda, in a variety of cars and trucks. The engine is reliable but does have some quirks. It is prone to flooding, which makes the engine difficult if not impossible to start without service. There is even a technique detailed in the video owner's manual for the RX-8 which requires "blipping" the throttle immediately before shutting down the engine. The rotary also has a reputation for poor fuel economy and high emission output. On the plus side for the rotary; they are extremely powerful in terms of displacement compared to horsepower. The early 12A rotaries were only 1146 cc but produced 100 horsepower from a normally aspirated engine that was only slightly larger than a suitcase. Later engines bumped up displacement to about 1300 cc but now produce 236 hp.

it is in the tank on drivers side. if you remove the bed bolts and shift the bed back you can access it quite easily. have done this on my own vehicle

The following is an elaboration on the 1995 Mazda B2300 Manual, step-by-step in the manner I use. I AM NOT a mechanic but I successfully change my own headlight bulbs as well as other bulbs for my Mazda. My garage fee for this change, labor and parts, is $30-$50. My cost, $13.95 for new bulb, a broken fingernail and nasty grease to wash off.

The following applies to a 1995 Mazda B2300 and, I believe, to most near-year models. Given the age of my vehicle, I actually had a plug work loose once making me believe the bulb was burned out. A quick check of the plug (see below) before going through the whole process saved the price of a bulb on that occasion.

Level of difficulty will differ depending on which headlight is out due to access to the bulb itself. The passenger side is typically an easier fix because the battery is located on driver's side. My 1995 requires working blind with one hand to make the change on driver's side - there is no other access or line of sight, so it's a tougher fix. Below is instruction for changing driver's side - to change passenger side headlight simply ignore the battery issue!

To change driver's side headlight bulb -

1) Open hood of car and locate wiring assembly as it attaches to rear of headlight. You must have full hand/finger access in order to make the change. If the battery is in the way, unbolt battery as necessary and shift as far toward windshield as possible to give good single hand access. It is not normally necessary to disconnect the battery but exercise CAUTION anytime you are working with or near connecting wires and battery itself.

2) The actual change involves a 3-step process:

A. Unplug the wiring from the light assembly.

First, grasp the wires as they exit the back of the bulb near the rubber stop and gently work up/down and left/right and then tug until plug disconnects from the headlight. It may take a little while to work free, depending on how long since last disconnect but whatever you do, don't get impatient and jerk the wires/plug out. Once the plug is free shift it aside, out of your way.

B. Remove the outer plastic (usually gray) ring and remove from the assembly.

As you hold the ring, turn counter clockwise until it stops then simply pull straight back and the ring should come out completely. Hint: Take a look at it and note exactly how it looks as you remove it.

C. Remove the burned-out bulb assembly.

After removing the ring, you will encounter a rubber stopper-type shape which is the back of the actual bulb. It should pull out easily but you may encounter resistance depending on how long since last change. Remove the entire burned out bulb assembly.

D. Insert the new bulb assembly.

The new bulb goes in exactly as the old bulb came out. The piece should set in flush with no gap. If there is a gap, position is out of kilter so keep working until the bulb sets into the headlamp flush.

E. Replace the plastic hold ring.

The ring has perforations which are in alignment with the bulb assembly. Take a close look and line things up before you actually start putting it back together to save time and sanity. Once the ring is in place, tighten into position by turning the ring clockwise to lock into place. It's about a half turn or so and when it stops moving, it's in place.

F. Plug wiring back into bulb assembly.

Simply plug the wiring in, making sure it sets in place and is flush.

Now, turn your headlights on and test to make sure all is working correctly.

DON'T FORGET - Reposition and rebolt your car battery as necessary.

Timing belt - usually replaced with service every 54,000 miles. The belt is available on its own, or as part of a kit, including the idler pulleys.

runs out the back of the dash, under the firewall, and in the top of the transmission.

It can be as simple as an exhaust leak allowing oxygen in to cause unburned fuel to burn with a pop or bang

Obviously ensure your handbrake is off with wheels chocked. My 1994 Mazda B2600i has two large Philip head screws in each drum, between the wheel studs. Unscrew these first, then tap the front and sides of the drum with a hammer to disloge the drum, ENSURING you do not chip the edge of the drum. If the drum still does not pull toward you, study the layout of the drum brake adjustment mechanism and try and adjust the brake shoes in via the port at the rear of the drum.

The fuel pump diaphragm has broken. Needs new fuel pump.

The zoom-zoom boy is Micah Kanters of Chicago. http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0437927/photogallery

There is Eight Bolts. The bottom to face the rear. Middle Four Face the front . Now the ones you cant find are at the very top facing the rear. I had to lower the tranny and motor to get a long extension to remove driver side. I Think u have to remove the exhaust to get the passenger side. The Passenger side is the hardest to find too

Operating from 2 Japanese and 14 international manufacturing plants, Mazda makes vehicles in many different countries.

The thermostat housing is located on the passenger side of the engine. You will need to follow the lower radiator pipe back to the engine and you will find the flexy pipe will be clamped to a metal pipe. This metal pipe is bolted to the lower part of the housing. 2 12 OR 14MM headed bolts(i cant remember) will need to be undone and this will allow access to the thermostat. When replacing the stat, there is a location slot for a piece of rubber on the gasket to be aligned. I use greese to hold it in place as its on the pipe and the whole lot needs to be lifted into position. You will see what i mean when you do the job.

When the car is started does the engin tone sound normal? If it sounds a bit off balance you ay have a Dead plug. another possible issue could be water in the spark plug well. This happens when you have the engin washed the water bypases the spark plug leed. Try removing the leeds and blowing out the wells with compressed air. Check that the Sensor at the Air box is connected corectly if this is not done the engin managment system does not know what to do. If an after market Air cleaner is used (Oil type) e.g. K&N you may need to check the air flow meter at the Throtel body. Oil bro the filter passes throgh the system and often collects on the air flow meter this causes isses with the throttel response. To clean the air flow meter you will need to remove the throttel body taking care not ro damage the gaskets. the outher thing to watch out for is the water pipes pasing through the throttel body. Once you have the air flow meter removed you can use a Spray type Carbarator cleaner to clean out any grime

140 nm

unless your Mazda has a wet clutch , as motorcycles do, you don't have clutch oil