Mercedes-Benz SL-Class

under the plastic cover, under the spare wheel in the boot

There are no 2009 sl500's...they are sl550's now. $95,000.00 is around the price for a basic SL....then you can get into the SL63, and I think you can still get the SL55....the Black Series will set you back around $300,000.00....and that car doesn't even have a convertible roof....too much horsepower for the chassis to have all that stuff you need for a convertible...they also have a Silver Arrow edition as well. Then you can get into the options if you like....special wheels, media center, custom upholstery, paint options, etc.
Remember, these cars will hold their value exceptionally well, until the warranty runs out...then their price drops like a rock...they are incredibly expensive to maintain and repair once they're out of warranty.

Sounds like a bad seal to me. Water is getting in and evaporating into the air. It then condenses onto the cool truck lid and that's where you find it when you open the trunk. Lift out the carpet on the truck floor to look for holes. If you don't see any, I'll bet your rubber seal needs replacing.

As in all Mercedes, and especially any older car, condition maks all the difference. The model your speaking about is a 107 body...in the US commonly with a V8, and known as 350/380/450/560 SL through the years. This model ahd almost a 25 year run...there are lots of them. However, the one your looking at is a Euro edition only...imported by the onwer....it has a 6 cyl and was never sold here. However, it's performance is really very similar to the US ones, it develops about the same horsepower and is lighter. Adding to it, that 280 motor is just a darn good reliable workhorse. Nonetheless, it generally isn't appreciated in the US...and they can be a tough sell...in the 5000 to 12000 (for a perfect, low mileage). Many people will get excited thinking it is what is commonly known here as the 280 SL...which is the 113 body, with the front lights stacked and frequently known a the Pagoda...these were earlier and are really collectible dreams. Easily can sell for north of 50K. (BTW, I have one of each!)

459 were produced. 15% were sport model.

Get your top tool out...it's that curvy metal tool that you've seen around the car but didn't know what it was for...if you can't find it, use a flat blade screwdriver.

On the inside of the car, right behind the driver's seat (on the left inside panel) you'll find a little lever with a plastic handle...you want to crank that towards the read of the car. There's a little chrome lever right under that lever...push that down. You should be able to lift the rear of the convertible top up. Reach down again, and crank the lever towards the rear of the car. The top cover, which looks like a big horse shoe should pop up. This is where the convertible top will nestle into.

Flip down both visors...you'll see a round chrome nut between the convertible top and the windshield's top frame...slide your top tool (or screwdriver) into the slot and push towards the center of the car...do the same thing on the other chrome nut. Pull the top straight up and continue folding the top towards the back and down until the top is completely inside the boot area...then push the horse shoe back down to the car, and crank the handle forward....get in the car and drive.

Yes, it is used in the transmission and steering system

I'm almost sure it's behind the glove box. or the right side kick panel. you didn't say what year? 1987

The battery for a 450sl, post 1974, should be found in the trunk. Inside the trunk compartment, on the right side inner wall, you'll find a little black knob at the top of the paneling. Turn the knob to the left and pull the panel down (its on a hinge). You'll find a square plastic box with two metal hinge straps. Unlatch those straps, lift the lid of the black plastic box, and voila!....you've found a rather large 12 volt battery. BTW, to the right of the battery casing, you should find your tire jack and tools in a compartment. Suggestion: If you're planning on replacing your battery, make sure you get a good one. Remember, you're dealing with a 70 watt system, and a cheap smaller battery won't work properly...these cars are electrical pigs...they're powering a lot of stuff. I've always used SEARS DIE HARD batteries....they're just a few dollars more, and worth every penny. You should be aware that car batteries usually last 3 to 4 years...5 years tops, otherwise you're taking a chance ...and that goes double if you live in a climate with snow or exceptionally cold areas.

Call the parts department of any Mercedes dealership and they should be able to email you a copy.

open the trunk...find the CD player...on the left side of the trunk....open the cover....follow the arrow on top of the player....which means slide the player's cover towards the front of the car until it locks into place.You'll see the top of the magazine, and to the side, a small button...the eject button...the magazine will rise....pull it out and do what you need to do....reverse the process to use the unit.

Under the hood, in the middle up next to the firewall is a cover with 8 screws. Remove that cover. Then remove the wiring harness which is on the firewall side on the left. It is connected to a box with holes in it that you can see through. There are coils inside that box. After you've removed the wiring harness, remove the box that it was connected to. There is one screw on the upper left, and on the lower right. Then remove the 4 nuts (one on each corner of the blower assembly, and then just manuver it out.

In the 1991 Mercedes 500SL the battery is located in the trunk on the passenger (right) side of the car. -sf-

2003-2004 the amp is located behind the driver seat under the pockets that contain the factory changer

am told my ignition module on my SL 500 is faulty where can i replace this and what exactly does it do?

15w 40 8.5 qts

aft of the rt rear tire. you should see 2 pumps and the filter canister viewing from the rear of the car

I don't know which model and year car you have...so I'll have to take a guess at this. When the warning light came on, were the brake pads actually worn out far enough to expose the sensors? Check the old pads and see if the sensors were exposed through the brake pad First, I would re-check the brake/sensor installation. Sometimes the little end that you insert into the brake pad bends, and you miss the hole...almost immediately the sensor wears out and sets the light off. The circuit is complete when that little sensor is worn and grounds itself. So, it needs to be worn and come in contact with a metal ground. If you have an older model of car, it could be a short, caused by wear mostly. Check the wire coming from the brake caliper to the hard brake line, then into the engine compartment...that would ground the circuit too. And also check the back of the instrument cluster for breakage on the circuit board. There's also a relay that might have gone bad, which could cause a malfunction. These are simple fixes...if the above doesn't help you...I suggest you take it to a mechanic and have it checked out. Also double check that this is the brake wear indicator, and not the parking brake indicator, or brake system failure, at the master cylinder. I hope this helps you out.

Well....there are two ways to do it....firstly...read the owner's manual...it will also tell you how to put gas in it.....the second way is...when you're sitting in the driver's seat, look at your left calf muscle...now from about there, make a straight line to the side of the car, underneath the dashboard. On the side panel, you'll see a small lever...pull it back, towards you..you'll see the hood pop up. There's a safety latch underneath the hood which you'll have to pull to get the hood fully open

First you have to release the hood, the release nob is on the left hand side on the side panel, just left of your left knee.

Second you open the hood by pulling the lever on the right side of the the front crest .

I'm not sure about your question...I assume you're asking to replace a burned out bulb in your instrument cluster. If that's your question....

You need to remove the steering wheel first. If your car has an airbag...which I think it does not...be very careful to follow manufacture's proceedures...you don't want to set it off.

Anyway...remove the steering wheel...then slowly manipulate the instrument cluster out of the dash. There's an oil line connected to the unit, so don't pull on the cluster too hard...just enough to get your fingers to the bulbs.

There are several different types of bulbs in this cluster, so make sure you know which bulbs need replacing...you might want to replace as many as you can. As I always recommend...when one starts to go, the others follow...and it can be a pain to repeat this process...so spend the extra bucks. All the bulbs back there should be those flay bayonet style bulbs.

Now, if you have some lights out in other places, remember, most of the center console illumination is done with small bayonet bulbs, and glass strands for the rocker switches. The shifter has one bulb in it, and the radio has its own light.

The sl has a problem with the inner wings rotting, to repair you require taking off the wings & rewelding on inner wings. Not a easy job

you can access the ignition switch from underneath the dash, but I found it easier to remove the steering wheel, then the instrument cluster. There are two basic elements to the ignition switch. The part that usually breaks down first is the front section, where the key goes into. You have to remove the entire unit from its bracket. Unplug the wire loom from the back of the housing. I believe there are two screws holding both sections together. Remove the screws and replace the unit. Then re-assemble. BUT FIRST, BEFORE YOU START TAKING EVERYTHING APART, TRY USING ANOTHER KEY. YOU'RE DEALING WITH A 25 YEAR OLD CAR, AND POSSIBLY A 25 YEAR OLD KEY (which I can't imagine, but its possible). YOU MIGHT ALSO WANT TO SQUIRT A SHOT OF WD-40 INTO THE IGNITION'S KEY SLOT...THERE COULD BE A STUCK SPRING OR BLADE INSIDE. If all that fails, then start taking the ignition switch apart. Its a fairly easy proceedure, less than 30 mins....and the switch should cost less than $60.00 from MB.

You're kidding, right?

You have a key?....hold the key in hand (left or right)...go to the rear of the car...no, the other way...where there are those big red lights in the back of the car. Go around to the center of the rear of the car...you''ll see a license plate on the back....its that little square plate that has some letters and numbers stamped on it...just off to the right of that thing, you'll see a round,, black circle around what appears to be a key hole.

Remember that key you were holding in your hand (left or right)? Stick the small end of that key into the key hole slot in the center of that black hole. Turn the little key to the right and push the key towards the front of the car...

The trunk should pop up. Or, you should also be able to use your remote key , if you still have it. If that doesn't work, call MB roadside assistance...its a free service to you, as an owner.

Hell, how can you not know how to open the trunk...unless you locked your keys in it....

...the less a-hole answer would be:

The key hole for the trunk is ALSO a push button release. When you turn the key to the LEFT, it unlocks and becomes the release button for the trunk.

WikiAnswers cannot provide pictures in answers or links to them, I'm afraid. Sorry about that.