Mercedes-Benz SL-Class

AMG wheels," Sport" ID plate on both front fender sides, different front and rear bumpers, looks like 2002 model, oh yea, and a $4900.00 added price.

Common language specification

Most Mercedes will have holes on the sides of the rocker panels and the jack that comes with the car is specially designed to fit into those holes if not look on the sides of the car and underneath the car on the sides. Your owners manual should tell you this information as well.

If you don't have to remove the center console, don't. This is a big job for any professional let alone an amateur.

Grab yourself a nice big box to throw all the stuff into that you'll be removing.

First, remove the ashtray, you'll need access to the screws behind it. Remove the 2 screws holding down the center wood cover (you can leave the shifter where it is). Unplug the switches from that center wood cover....hazard switch, 2 window switches, and remove that unit.

Remove the wood surround from the climate control box...it should peel back and off...do this slowly and carefully. I don't know what type of radio you have, but remove that too.

I believe there are screws on each side of the transmission cover. Find the screws and remove them, and manipulate the carpeting so you can remove those covers from each side. Then, near the end of the console, close to where the seat belt receptacle is, there are a couple of little dark Philips screws holding that side of the console down...remove those screws.

Now comes the tricky part....there are about 6 places that the console is bolted to inside the mess of wires and hoses...I believe they are 10mm nuts. I haven't done this procedure in a long time so there might be some other wires laying around there. I don't think you'll need to remove the climate control center...I think you should be able to work around that.

That should be about it. Be careful not to disrupt any wiring or hoses in the area...being careful will save you a lot of time and work if you don't disrupt anything back there...and as I said, there's a lot of stuff back there. The slightly lift the rear of the console up while at the same time, pulling the unit out of the dash. Do this slowly and keep checking for wires and hoses as you pull back

I THOUGHT I ANSWERED THIS QUESTION BEFORE. YOU CAN IF YOU WANT TO BUY THE ($200.00) TOOL THAT'S REQUIRED TO REMOVE THE SKID PLATE: PART #800245 COST IS APPROX. ( $100.00 ) AND WELL WORTH IT.

THIS TOOL SIPHONS THE OIL OUT OF THE CRANKCASE WITH A 5FT. HOSE. IT'S PROBABLY SIMILAR TO THE BILSTEIN PROCESS THAT SOME DEALERS USE.

About $94,000

Here is a link to a online manual.

http://www.manualowl.com/a/Mercedes/2003-SL-Class/Manual/3807

Average cost is $4,000 to overhaul the 722.5 transmission in the sl320.

Several things: buckle sensors not working, electrical wires from belts to relay faulty, contact pad under seat, control module, faulty wiring in dash, etc.

The ignition firing order is 15486372, just like early Ford V8's.

The cylinders are 1 to 4 on the pass side, 5 to 8 on the drivers side.

Bosch 0.290.004.500 Distributor Cap has cylinder numbers on top.

Set crank shaft timing mark to TDC = #1 cylinder for Bosch 1.235.522.061 Distributor Cap, you can check Distributor shaft play at the same time.

it is in the back right corner, in front of the drivers side....tucked under the dash

The power steering reservoir on this vehicle is found under the hood of the car. It is usually found to the back of the engine, near the firewall, on the driver side of the car.

I have a 2003 SL55 and the glove bax was stuck shut. I simply wedged my fingers into the space between the door and the dash and pulled it open. It seems that the latch just needs a force pulling away from the dash for it to release. Once I used a butter knife with a towel wrapped around ti and it did the same thing. Did not know about the cable adjustment...do you know how to remove the glovebox or adjust the cable?

In the manual they gave you when you bought the car

Use the same fluid as your transmission uses. But first, check the oil you have in the reservoir...see what color it is. If its red, use trans fluid....DEXTRON. If the fluid is clear...you'll probably have to go to MB for their special stuff. If your power steering reservoir is more than 1/2 full, you might be losing fluid in the system somewhere. Check the ground underneath your engine to see if there's any red fluid on the ground. If you do have a PS leak, I suggest you get it fixed immediately before you burn up the PS pump. When checking the PS fluid, let the car idle when you check the fluid level. Don't over fill the reservoir...about a 1/2" from the brim is fine.

there must be a problem with the transfer case, which is what controls the front wheels of the car for 4-matic.

I had the same problem and had to rebuild it because of a $1 internal seal that was leaking from the transmission oil to the hydrolic oil inside the trasfer case. Or it could just be electrical?

I would first re-check the fuse...I would replace the one you have in-line...why not? Secondly, I would check the light switch on the dash. This massive switch has about 16 wires conneted to it. It operates the lighting system completely. Turn it back and forth a bunch of times and see if you get a flash of light. If that doesn't work...check the dimmer switch and see if it dims the center lights (the radio, heater, gear shifter, etc.) if they fade in and out, its not your dimmer. If that doesn't work, you need to remove the steering wheel, and slide back the instrument cluster. Without pulling the cluster all the way out, check for any loose connections...never pull connections out to check connections, always push in. If you don't get any reactions...grab a wire, preferably with an alligator clip at each end...take one end of the wire and ground it to the chassis. Take the other end and place it on each metal screw and see if that works. It could be as simple as a bad ground wire. Bad ground wires seem to appear more often during cold winter months....the plastic and thin wires get brittle when they get cold. I would think one of the above should solve the problem...or, maybe all of the bulbs burned out at the same time...not likely, but something to check.

With your key in the ignition at position 1 press and hold "accept call", then OK. Select "ASSYST Plus Workshop" and OK, then select "service done". Select "service due", "full service" and then the back button.

Replacing light bulbs within the instrument cluster can be something of a pain in the ass. And, because it is such a pain, I suggest replacing all of the bulbs at the same time. I assume that we're just talking about the instrument lighting, and not the idiot lights on the bottom. You're going to need a big socket...I believe it's a 27mm, and a ratchet extention, and the ratchet. If you have an air bag, you have to disable it. Remove the airbag housing carefully...and then remove the steering wheel. You should make sure of the position of the steering wheel...it should be straight in line...and remember to pull the ignition key out of the ignition...otherwise the steering wheel won't lock, and you won't be able to loosen the nut. Slowly work the instrument cluster out of the dash housing. If you have small hands, you should be able to remove the two top bulb holders buy pushing in gently and turning 90 degrees. Slide the holders out. There are two small bayonet type bulbs to replace. There are a couple of other lamps to replace also...they are bigger bayonet bulbs...I believe there are 2 of them. They are the same size bulbs as the idiot lights take. Go to a local MB dealer for the little bulbs because they are hard to find in most places. I did find them at Auto Zone a while ago. The instrument lighting for the heater/ac, and utility switches are mainly lit by optic strands with the light source coming from behind the center cluster and temperature wheel. They use those tiny bayonet bulbs as well. As I said, this can be a pain in the ass...but after you do it once, you should be able to do it much easier...its just a lot of work to do. And remember to check all the bulbs in the instrument cluster as long as you're there. That's about it...oh...make sure you slowly re-insert the instrument cluster back into the dash evenly...check up-down and left and right...it can be tricky too....its held in by a rubber gasket around the entire instrument cluster. And be careful with that air bag...you don't want to set it off.

1990 300 s Mercedes the light blink,the radio goes off and the motor dies .wont start again until you put in new or fresh battery

You'll find the fuse box under the hood, near the firewall, on the driver's side of the engine compartment. Look for a big black box. There should be two swing clips. Pop the clips open. There will be a bunch of different color and size fuses. You'll also see a bunch of relays there too...they're those big silver and black tubes and blocks...those aren't fuses, and leave them alone.
There might be a clear plastic cover, showing you a schematic of the box's contents. If not, then check the underneath of the box's cover, and there should be the schematic. IMPORTANT: If you're replacing a bad fuse, use the correct size. You could create problems if you don't. And believe me, it could cost you some serious money.

Hello Go to this link they have a diagram and some photos which will help you. http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/R107CenterVent

Well that answer MAY not be right. 300 series eh. well there was a problem of the motor drawing more current as it got older and burning the box. Mercedes issued a bulletin to place an external fuse on the fender right near the fuse box. Its just over an inch long black plastic with a strip of metal in it. Doesnt really look like a fuse. If its an old mercedes, its probably not the fuse, but the motor. They wallow out their bushings and destroy the brushes. on the 300d its located in fuse box in the #8 slot, is a blue one 25 amp n0rt

You have 2 choices, you can pay an astronomical cost (around 600 for the drivers side mirror alone w/o installation) or you can buy replacement glass and glue it in yourself.