Mercedes-Benz SLK-Class

The fuel pump on a Mercedes SLK 200 is located under the hood. The fuel pump is behind the battery and is covered by the protective panel.

Yes these cars do have sbc (electronic brakes) but you do not need to de-activate the system before you replace the brake pads.

Take key out of ignition

You should have a 'floating' type caliper, remove the rear wheels and remove the brake calipers, should be either a torx bolt or a Allen bolt? don't remember. unscrew those 2 bolts on the backside of the caliper. remove the caliper and replaced the pads, re-install in oposite direction.

*note* after your finished start engine but do not press the brake pedal until after you hear the sbc/brake pump prime itself, if you touch the brake pedal to soon, you will sometimes cause a red warning message in the cluster because it thinks the pressure is to low, which you will then have to clear the codes for.

Is a good choice to have done at the dealer, but you can do it yourself.

Just finished my rear brake job on my 2004 Benz E320 4matic Wagon. I replaced the brake pads and rotor. You will need a Torx T40 to remove two torx bolts for the caliper and 18mm wrench to remove caliper housing in order to get the rotor out.( There is also a small torx bolt holding the rotor( I used a flat screw driver to break it loose) didn't have the right torx. DO NOT open the doors when performing the brake job. Other than that it is very simple and easy.

Hi Did you ever get a resolve on this???? I seem to have the same problem SLK 350... Please reply to everard.w@ntlworld.com cheers

One way to fix a slow steering return on a Mercedes SLK 350 is to add more power steering fluid. Another option is to replace the steering wheel lock sensor.

The SLK-280 averages about 20 city, 25 highway.

You need the 5-digit code for the radio. The system locks when power has been disabled or the radio removed from the vehicle. Call a MB dealership. I have the same problem with my '99 SLK230. I know the code too. The book says if power has been interupted and the code has been entered incorrectly more than 3 times, the system will lock itself out. However, the book also says that once the radio is on again it should reset itself in 10 minutes or so. I have let my car run with the radio turned on for more than 30 minutes and it didn't reset so I could enter the code. Now, does anyone know how to fix this?

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I can't remember the price, but I can say this. I had the transmission on my 1998 SLK 230 rebuilt about a year and a half ago. I got estimates from a Mercedes dealership as well as a local transmission shop. The transmission shop estimate was over 50% less than the Mercedes dealership. I had the work done at the transmission shop and have been very happy with the results.

I purchased a 1998 slk in good condition with 50k miles for 8k in California 2009.

Top speed for most cars is limited at 155 mph. Depending on options, market, and year, the car can come de-limited from the factory. 175 mph is possible on the road. Gearing for the SLK 55 allows up to 198 MPH.

If by fixing the clutch you mean replacing it ? Replacing the clutch is relatively straightforward: Parts needed: Throwout bearing Transmission clutch kit including pressure plate and driven plate rear main seal for the engine rear transmission mount rubber. Shifter linkage rebuild kit ($20 bux from the parts place, google on web) 3 qts redline MTL transmission oil 17 mm hex wrench to drain and replace fluid (think Sears here) Borrow of buy a clutch alignment tool (no not the rabbit style) With vehicle on ground loosen the front wheel hub nuts (they are on VERY tight >150Lbs/ft torque) Remove the battery ground connection after noting any radio securoty codes you may have. Chock the wheels , jack up the front of the vehicle, secure on jackstands. remove the drive shafts on both sides baggie the CVs so you don't contaminate them. Mark and emove the starter wires, remove the starter. If starter is old consider getting it rebuilt at this time. remove the shifter linkages, replace all the worn plastic bits, bag and lay aside. Support the engine with a floor jack. Loosen the front engine snubber mount (near the crankshaft pullry) remove the transmsiion mount (looks like a sqaushed starred donut) under drivers feet (approximately) Remove the mount bracket I suggest you renew the mount at this time Remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever remove the bolts holding the tranny to the engine Lower the engine at the rear SUPPORT the transmission and slide the unit off the pilot bushing. PUT NO PRESSURE on the transmission input shaft!!! Lower tranny to ground and remove from under unit. mark the pressure plate (clutch cover) as to orientation with a witness mark. Remove it and the clutch driven plate, don't breathe the dust. (BAD for humans) Note the driven plates spline orientation. Clean the pilot bushing in the center with carb cleaner, regrease when dry with a smear of MOS2 greas (black and ugly type) Not too much just a thin smear. Clean the transmission shaft with WD40 or Kerosene, dry with clean rag. Remove and replace the throwout bearing, if you've been breaking clutch cables lately the pivot point on the side of the case where the thowout shaft lives is dirty. It needs to be cleaned w/cleaner and lubed with MOS2 grease. Place the clutch plate in position, make sure you get the splines oriented correctly. Clean the steel surface of the clutch pressure plate with a light hydrocarbon like lighter fluid, no grease here... I've used starting fluid here in a pinch, no smoking ;-) Place the clutch cover (new unit? orient the same as the old one) over the plate. Use the tool to center the plate under the cover. If you mis-align the plate putting the unit back together will be a painful experience... so be careful, check your work. Tighten the plate into position, use a cross pattern on the bolts. Don't be sloppy here , a bolt coming loose would be bad $$$$$... Add a small amount of grease onto the transmission input splines. This helps the clutch action, not a lot just a bit to make the shaft shiny. If you're strong enough you can lift the transmission into position and slide it onto the plate splines. Otherwise use a floor jack to lift into position. Put the tranny in gear so that you can spin the axel adapter to move the shaft splines to get them to align. Reverse this procedure to finish up. I recommend driving the car after initially adjusting the pedal for 12mm or 1/2 free play. Drive the car and re-adjust as needed. Get the transmission hot by driving for an hour. Drain the fluid. replace the bottom plug after it stops dripping Add fluid to the side plug till the fluid runs out. replace the plug. Enjoy the new clutch.

Just use the factory mercdes Benz coolant, it comes in a white container.

I don't belive that any other coolants are recommended for your car.

It is directly behind the the radiator hose. The filter is an insert so don't damage the cap as you will reuse it.