Pontiac GTO

Factory recommended back then would have been 10w/30 or 40.

The only GTO that came with a shaker hood was the model year 1974.

per Wikipedia...

" Although Pontiac had strenuously promoted the GTO in advertising as the "GTO Tiger," it had become known in the youth market as the "Goat." Pontiac management attempted to make use of the new nickname in advertising but were vetoed by upper management, which was dismayed by its irreverent tone"

It is thought it started simply because "goat" was easier to say than the 3 sylables of G T O .

also, there was a saying to go along with the nickname: "Goats will eat anything."

Externally they are both the same. The 389 motor mounts should work just fine.

400 horsepower and 400 lb/ft of torque.

see link

According to musclecarfacts.net it was March 1969. Take that with a grain of salt though they have the 1970 Judge pictured as a 1969 GTO. Nice "facts". The test car was reported to be a 1969 Judge Ram Air IV.

Front cylinder on the drivers side.

You buy what is called a Performance Chip. These range from 250-500.

According to holley they say you can't blow the power valve now so if your car is running rich maybe the carb is too big for the engine or you need to change the jets in the front venturi's to the next smaller size.

usually you have a bad slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. check the fluid in the clutch reservoir. on drivers side next to brke master cylinder it is a small container with a black 2.5 inc cap if empty fill to fill line and pump clutch pedal until you get some resistance

3,629 hardtops and 168 droptops.

That totally depends on what condition the car is to begin with and what level of restoration you want to achieve. You can easily spend more than the car is worth. That does not mean it is not worth the effort. The '67 is one of the best years for the GTO.

It looks like the same body but the VIN #'s won't be right

Take the V.I.N and go to google and get search for vin identifier and then decode your vin to the chart that it gives you and it will tell you what size motor came in your specific vehicle. V8s came in various sizes.

big block gm engines are known for sucking the lower radiator hose shut. make sure the lower hose has a spring in it or is a new hose

Also, since a 455 was not stock for '67 your 455 may be working the stock radiator too hard. Consider an aftermarket higher capacity radiator. Aluminum will help even more. If you are concerned about looking original... spray paint it black.

Pontiac engines are notorious for running hot. Especially the large bore 455. As stated above, make sure your cooling system is in excellent condition and run the largest aluminum radiator you can get. One other thing....what type of fan are you using?? Perhaps the best fan made is the 7 blade factory fan with an rpm/temp sensitive fan clutch. These are critical on Pontiacs. Those flex fans and factory 4 blade fans just won't cut it on a street driven Pontiac. Also use a 160 degree thermostat. One last thing to check is your fuel mixture. A lean car runs hotter than one set up correctly or even a little rich. Timing also has an effect on temperature. Good luck. if your engine is sitting higher then your radiator you might be dealing with air pockets a way to make sure,there is a tool that pulls vacuum through the cooling system from radiator filler cap it pulls 20 inches of vaccum at the same time it will fill your cooling system completely without waiting for thermostat,it pulls every bit of air from block. also make sure you have the heavy duty radiator 4 row made for big engines with a/c also retarted timing will cause engine temp to rise. ps the best fan you can get are the s shaped electric fans also make sure there is nothing blocking the air flow through the grill i have seen leaves between a/c condenser and radiator. there are also thermostat restrictor plates that replace thermostat all it is is a plate the slows the water a bit.driving with no thermostat is not recomended because the water run through the radiator to fast not allowing the water to cool enough

Good answer above, I would like to add a few things to it though.

1) If you are using a rebuilt or "new" water pump (read from China or Mexico), the space between the impeller and the divider plate is often far too large to allow the pump to work properly. The gap should be about .060, the plate can be bent to fit closer to the impeller, this will increase water flow.

2)The fan should sit about half way into the shroud for best airflow and cooling, that is that the blades should be half way out the back, and half way in the shroud.

3) An easy way to "burp" air from your cooling system is to drill 2 small holes (like 1/16") in the body of the thermostat, and when filling the radiator, jack the front of the car up, so it is higher than the engine.

4) Make sure you have the correct water pump pulley, there were different sizes over the years. A pulley from an air conditioned car will be a smaller diameter, and will spin the pump and fan faster in relation to the engine rpm.

Also have to make sure you get the right depth pulley, in late 1968 the pulley depth changed, so all pulleys must be of the same set, or you will have belt alignment problems.

There were no factory produced tri power GTOs in 1969, the last Pontiac tri powers were in the 1966 model year. The factory red line for most pontiac 400s in 1969 was 5100rpm, the ram air IV tach was red lined at 5400. The engines could exceed these limits, by at least 1000rpm, but the cast connecting rods while strong, were not made for extended periods of high rpm and would eventually fail if repeatedly pushed past 6400-6500.

Factory pan, about 5 quarts. Remember to fill the oil filter before you put it on, so the engine doesn't start "dry". After filling oil, run the engine for a few minutes then wait about 5 minutes and check level on dipstick. You should be very close to correct, if slightly low add, a slight overfill will not cause any engine damage.

Carousel red. It looked more orange than red. As I remember the first 1200 were Carousel red. I knew someone who had one of the originals.

Yes. It will bolt right in with 1968 motor mounts.

in simplest terms, gear ratio is all about leverage

the same concept that makes a larger lever able to apply more force while moving a longer distance applies to gears. instead of comparing the length of the lever, you compare the size of the gears or number of teeth (which is the same as a measure of size if teeth are the same size since we are looking for a ratio or fraction)

the size of one gear in relation to the other is a "gear ratio". if gear A has 40 teeth and gear B has 10 teeth, the ratio is 4:1.

for gear A to go a complete revolution it went through 40 teeth, and if gear B went for a complete revolution it went through 10. what does this mean? it means if they are paired together--let's say gear A turning gear B--then for every turn of A, gear B turns 4 times.

how does this relate to speed and torque? well in the scenario above, gear B is turning 4 times as fast as gear A but with 1/4 of the torque or turning force (of course there are factors that influence this and there is more to it, but let's keep it simple to explain the relationship).

this is easiest to see/understand in a bicycle. when you small gear in back (wheel) versus a large gear, pedaling is "harder". the smaller the gear, the more the end of the wheel has leverage over it, however the smaller the gear, the less pedaling it takes to turn the wheel a full turn.... if you go to a larger gear in back it will take more pedals to turn the wheel but feel easier because you have increased your mechanical advantage on the ground.

in an automotive transmission, the input of the transmission can be equated to engine RPM (for this example) and the output can be equated to wheel speed (in this example), in 1st gear the output gear is larger than the input gear. this means that the wheels will turn less than the engine.... you will go 'slow' even with high RPM but you have more torque so you can start the car from a stop or go up a hill.... in the highest gear the output gear is smaller than the input, this means that for every turn of the engine the wheels will turn several times (this is called overdrive)... once you are already moving at a high speed you don't need as much TORQUE to keep the car going so you sacrifice torque in higher gears to gain speed and keep your engine RPM down.

if you are asking in regards to a differential gear ratio (like performance vs. stock) it's the same idea. the differential is just another gearset, like in the transmission, but this one can't be shifted. so if you have a differential that's lower geared you will have more torque at any given RPM but to go at a given speed your engine will have to turn faster than with a higher geared differential. in theory this will lower your top speed.

if you go with a higher gearset you will have less torque in any given gear, but will have a higher speed at any given engine RPM vs the lower geared set. -Ramsey Mesyef

No. Per "Original Pontiac GTO" the hood tach started midway onto the '67 model year as a dealer installed option.

no it wont fit. The body lines are different. A 66 will fit a 67

1964. It is argued that the 1964 GTO was the first muscle car.