The purpose is to keep the skimmed item (insects, leaves, etc.) in the skimmer, so when you create waves in the pool they don't wash back out in the swimming area.

Yes.

If you use wood you run the risks of Fire, termite damage, wood rot, etc.

A pool heater sitting on a deck that is of flammable materials could burn your house down. The heat emitted from the heater is extreme. If, in the event of a fire, due to decking that is not to code, it could be a possibility that you may be denied insurance coverage or worst yet canceled insurance. k

1 mile is equal to 4 laps of a standard 1/4 mile track.

Well, you are well on your way to prematurely replace your pool heater. The pump seal is the next or maybe the first to go. You have not done the pool finish any good either. Let's see then there is the light fixture. The acid has etched all metal and plaster. Why would you pour any pool chemical directly into the skimmer other those that direct you to do so?

k

Flock only works when the PH is above 8 (most pools are around 7.2 - 7.5). You have to raise the PH BEFORE you flock. I just did this very recently. My pool water had turned completely green, you couldn't see the bottom. I raised the PH (took and about 2 hours) then added the flock. Let the pump run on recirculate for 4 hours then turn it off overnight. Vacuum to waste, very slowly. This does involve topping off the water in the pool, letting everything settle down then vacuum some more. My total vacuuming time was 5 hours, but the pool was just a little cloudy when I finished, but no green water at all. It was worth the time and trouble to use the flock since I had been trying to get the green out for over a week, with no results. My algae was due to a construction project around my pool and granules from the new roofing got in the pool. The acid from the granules caused algae to grow very rapidly. That is what my pool dealer said to do and it worked great. Hope this helps.

I wouldn't know about swiming caps but I know there is a tie hat and a scarf.

You can buy a devise called a Jeanie Jet and it connects to your water hose. Take the lid off your pump and insert it into the front of the pump going back to the skimmer. You then turn on the water and it should blow out the line and unclog it. What comes out of that line will come out into the skimmer so watch for it.

The voltage is correct, BUT, Your welder is going to draw more current than the pool pump did. The breaker, wiring, and the receptacle will have to be upgraded. In my opinion I have never seen a "temporary" connection!! ...pkazsr

turn it all on and see what happens is about the only way

ANSW:: The evaluation, even without seeing the pool, would be that it ws going to be a tough job for a horrible situation. Repugnant in a word. k

Yes you can.

I assume from your question that by pool equipment you mean filter. A filter might explode if it had air trapped in it and was not released. Air will compress. A filter has air in it, the pump is turned on and water begins to fill up the filter and circulate through to the pool. The filter can not fill completely because the air is at the top of the filter. The air gets compressed further and further until it can compress no further and the top blows off the fitler. This scenario would be due to a fair amount of air in the filter (not small quantities).. The air should eventually be pushed through to the pool wwhere you will see it bubble up until the air is out of the system and the filter is full or subsatantially full. Sometimes for many reasons this does not take place and Boom! Another reason for a filter exploding is if you have a filter with a band clamp around the center holding (clamping) the top half of the filter to the bottom half of the fitler. The cause I have seen for this is that the washer that is on the bolt to secure/tighten the clamp ring with has been dropped/lost. The nut pulls through the hole and the top of the fitler flies off. If you are talking about a heater exploding then of course I would consider gas as the first culprit. If it is any other piece of equipment then please let me know and I will see if I can be of further help. Steve Dunn Commercial Pool Systems, Inc. Refillling the filter with water should be done with the valve in the "backwash" position to safely purge air from the filter.

check for air leakes if not remove pool pump and run by self and se if it is sucking air

Online is best.

Possibly, yes but you have to take into consideration air circulation for the pump but especially for the heater. In order for the pump to run efficiently it needs circulated cooler air from some source. Do not run a pool heater in an enclosed shed even if it is vented through the roof. The heater needs a great deal of combustible air to function properly and to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Follow the heater mfg.'s instructions for venting.

Ken

Hmm, I just caught the "rubbermaid" portion of your message before I sent off my advice. Legally, you may not be able to run the heater in that type of shed. Check local codes!

Ken

Chlorine/Bromine chemicals added to the water.

Due to the differences in engineering and the parts involved, there really is no way to convert an oval above ground pool into a round pool.

Not really.

Most disease transmission in pools is swimmer to water to swimmer. The disease carrying organisms never go through the filter system before infecting another swimmer. Consequently, an adequate pool sanitizer must be present where the germs are, out in the pool.

Chlorine, bromine, PHMB (Baquacil, etc) all meet this requirement. Chlorine is by far the fastest acting and most effective sanitizer, but all three meet the minimum requirement of providing sanitation where the germs meet the people.

By contrast, ozone does not. Unlike chlorine gas, ozone gas is not very water soluble. And -- though it surprises most people -- ozone gas is considerably more toxic, if inhaled, than chlorine gas. Consequently, ozone systems must be designed so that no undissolved ozone gas reaches the pool, where it could escape and endanger swimmers. In Europe, where commercial pool ozone systems are sometimes very high capacity, an ozone removal stage is added to the filtration system. But, in the US, the problem is usually solved by making sure the ozone system is so small, that no ozone can ever remain in the water that's returned to the pool.

Either way, ozone is never present in water that's in the pool; it's only present in water that's in the pipes.

Consequently, ozone systems can never provide primary sanitation, protecting swimmers out in the pool, where the germs are.