Satin

A satin finish on a proof coin gives the field a softer appearance and not the crisp mirror finish found on other proof coins.

The value of a 5th of unopened Canadian Masterpiece by Lord Calvert from 1959 can vary significantly based on condition, market demand, and rarity. Typically, such vintage spirits can range from $100 to several hundred dollars, especially if it is in pristine condition and includes the original satin-lined red box. For a more accurate appraisal, it would be best to consult a spirits auction house or a collector specializing in vintage liquors.

The value of a box set of 6 EPNS (Electro Plated Nickel Silver) egg cups can vary based on factors like condition, demand, and market trends. Given that they are in excellent condition, still in their original plastic bags, and housed in a blue velvet box with brass clasps, it may range from $50 to $150. For a precise valuation, checking recent sales of similar items on auction sites or consulting with an antiques expert would be beneficial.

Yes, you can apply a non-abrasive wax to brushed or satin nickel finishes to help protect them from water stains and enhance their shine. Make sure to choose a wax specifically designed for metal surfaces to avoid any damage. Before application, clean the surface thoroughly to remove any dirt or residues. Apply the wax with a soft cloth and buff gently to achieve a smooth finish.

Stretch satin is typically made from a blend of polyester and spandex, which provides both the luxurious sheen of satin and the flexibility needed for stretch. The polyester gives the fabric durability and a smooth finish, while the spandex allows for elasticity, making it comfortable to wear in fitted garments. This combination makes stretch satin popular for clothing like dresses, lingerie, and activewear.

To stretch satin shoes, you can use a few methods. One effective way is to wear thick socks and put on the shoes, allowing your body heat to help stretch the material. Alternatively, you can fill a ziplock bag with water, place it inside the shoes, and freeze them; as the water freezes, it will expand and stretch the satin. Another option is to use a shoe stretcher specifically designed for this purpose, which can be adjusted to gently widen the shoes.

Satin is a smooth, glossy fabric known for its luxurious feel and elegant appearance. It is typically made from silk, polyester, or nylon, featuring a glossy surface on one side and a dull finish on the reverse. Satin drapes beautifully, making it a popular choice for eveningwear, lingerie, and home furnishings. Its soft texture and sheen can also enhance colors, adding depth to garments and décor.

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Preferences for men wearing silk or satin silk boxers can vary widely among women. Some may find the smooth texture and luxurious feel appealing, while others might prefer more traditional materials. Ultimately, personal taste plays a significant role, and what one woman enjoys might not be the same for another. Comfort and confidence in what one wears are often more important than the material itself.

yes, it works perfectly, although I used a semi gloss. The paint is tougher and is less likely to soften due to moisture in the bathroom.

If both cans of paint are interior, latex and the same colour, go ahead. The eggshell finish does not vary much in sheen level from one manufacturer to another.

If one can is oil base and the other latex, NO.

If the colour of the two cans of paint are not the same... I'd be very careful as you may not like the new colour you get.

No.

Yes, if you can paint a wall, you can paint wainscoting.

Yes but there is no guarantee that the colour on the surface will not streak or show a different colour through. Added to this is the fact in many houses in particular there are spray polishes used. These become airborne and do make their way to pained surfaces even if you don't actually polish that surface directly. Its a safer bet with same colour paint to give it a light rub with sand paper , then wipe with a clean damp cloth and then the satin coat should adhere to a much better standard

There are 2 possible types of binding - bias binding and binding tape. Bias binding is basically a piece of bias-cut fabric which is folded in on both edges, binding tape looks similar to ribbon with either a Matt or satin finish (generally the Matt tapes are made from cotton and the shiny satin tapes are man-made) and can be either straight or bias-cut.

For the purpose of a blanket I'm assuming you are using the ribbon-type shiny binding. The best way to stop the binding bunching lies in good preparation

a) make sure the blanket has been cleaned first - even if it's new get it cleaned - if it's cotton wash it. The purpose of the cleaning is to make sure that the blanket is pre-shrunk as one of the causes of puckered binding is that the blanket can shrink whereas the satin binding will not.

b) measure the side of the blanket where you are going to stitch the binding, measure out a similar length of binding plus extra for 'finishing off' at either end - this 'extra' needs to be a couple of centimetres or an inch at either end (do not cut the at this stage, just mark the amount of tape needed with chalk or whatever you have that will leave a visible mark.

c) pin the binding at either end of the blanket allowing the extra to hang over the end. Make sure the binding is lying flat against the blanket - if it isn't flat adjust until it is.

d) now tack the binding onto the blanket using a thread that is clearly visible on the tape and with stitches no longer than a quarter of an inch/half a centimetre - make sure you tack both edges of the tape like this, but sufficiently far away from the edge of the tape for a machine to stitch along the tape without going over the tacking - if you machine over the tacking stitches you'll find it very difficult to remove them and may well need other equipment like a stitch ripper and tweezers.

e) now machine along each edge of the tape at a slow to medium speed - if you sew too quickly it can cause the stitches to pull.

f) finally turn the ends of the binding in upon itself and hand stitch to the back of the blanket.

Et Voila! you have a nice, unbuckled edging on your blanket.

A word of warning - even after all this painstaking work it's still possible that a cotton blanket could shrink further if you wash in water so, if it's really important to you that it doesn't pucker, always dry clean a cotton blanket.