Sewing

Vintage sewing machines are valued much like vintage automobiles. Just saying you have a 1871 Singer sewing machine is not enough to establish the value. Several other factors must be considered: - Condition: Is it a rusty hulk, or shiny, showroom shape? - Model: Each manufacturer made several machines for different pocketbooks, just as with autos, the luxury models usually retain their value better than the utility models. - Configuration: Is your old machine mounted in a treadle base, or was it converted to electrical operation and moved to a portable carrying case? Often, the treadle cabinet is worth more than the machine itself! - Accessories: Does the machine have its instruction manual and full complement of accessories that came with it? Are there any additional accessories that were purchased later? Then there are other issues that can affect the selling price of a vintage sewing machine: - Location: If you live in an upscale U.S. neighborhood, probably very few buyers will be interested in an average condition old sewing machine. If you live in an area with a large number of lower income families, they might want an old, reliable sewing machine to actually sew on. - Furniture value: If your machine is in a nice wood cabinet, some may be interested in it purely for its decorative value. Others will shy away because they don't have room for a cabinet or it does not match their décor. Some buyers will only want a portable model they can stash away in a closet when not in use. - Shipping: If you are only willing to sell locally, your market will be limited. If your machine is small enough to ship, listing it on Ebay might bring a quicker sale and higher price. Speaking of Ebay, that is probably the best place to research prices for old sewing machines. Look for machines of the same model and age, in the same condition. Note the accessories that come with it and see how closely your item matches the Ebay item.

There is a 2002 movie, that is the first movie, then came the 2003 movie then 2003 tv show Lilo and Stitch, then 2005 movie Stitch has a glitch, then 2006 movie Leroy and Stitch, the Lilo & Stitch: 2-Disc Big Wave Edition came out in 2009 but that's not a brand new movie its just a 2-Disc box set. I have heard there might be a 2010 Lilo and Stitch movie but I heard the same about The Incredibles so I'm not sure (hope so!) Hope that helps!

2002 Lilo and Stitch

2003 Stitch the movie

2003 Lilo and Stitch the series

2005 Stitch has a glitch

2009 Box set addition

Baize is a coarse cotton or wool fabric. It begins with the letter b.

Put your spool of thread on the silver prong on the top of the sewing machine. Run the thread through the tensioner by following the arrows on the front of the machine (through the little clip at the top, down in the channel to the right of the 'auto tension', back up the other side of the 'auto tension', up to the top again, around the little groove there then down the other side of the groove). Thread the needle from the front then tuck the thread down and to the left so that it goes through the little channel on the foot. Then pull several inches of thread straight back. Wrap the thread once or twice around the little circular thing with the groove in it that is attached to the left side above the foot (sorry, I can't find my instruction book and I don't remember the name of that thing). Pull the metal plate back that covers the bobbin holder (the one with the little window in it) and put your bobbin in there with the stripes pointing up. Slide the metal plate back part-way so that the little arrow on the left of it lines up with the little arrow on the base of the machine. There will be a small gap where it is not closed all the way. Step on the pedal to run the machine and the bobbin should start to wind. You can look at your spool to make sure the thread is running. Keep an eye on the bobbin and don't wind it too full. When you have enough thread on the bobbin, let off the pedal, close the plate the rest of the way, unwind the thread from the round thing, and use something to sweep under the foot to draw the thread backward so that you pull about five inches of thread out the back of the machine. Trim all the ends of the threads so that you have two threads about 4" long--one coming from the needle and one from the bobbin. Then you're ready to go. Hope this made sense...and sorry if it was too much detail but I wasn't sure how much experience you've had with sewing.

The shank is a great button. It relieves stress from the garment and makes buttoning easier. I would place a small piece of fabric on the inside of the garment in the area that the button will be sewn. The weight of the garment and the button will determine the weight of the thread used. Take a stitch or two through the stablizing fabric on the inside of the garment, then bring the needle through to the surface of your main garment. I like to take one stitch there before I put the needle through the shank. Take three or four stitches or what you feel stablizes the shank and then put your needle through the main garment taking your final stitches on the inside of the garment in the piece of stablizer. This will give you excellent hold without so much stress on the front side of your blouse etc. Don't take more stitches than you need through the shank as it tends to look bulky. Good luck.

It depends on which model.

No. Elias Howe invented a number of improvements to sewing machines, most notably the lock stitch mechanism underneath the fed material and the thread eye in the point of the needle itself.

His improvements led to the ultimate success of sewing machines, but they may have never existed without failed inventions to improve upon.

Hand wind the shirring elastic onto your bobbin. Use same color standard thread for the top. If you are going to need a hem, hem it first because it's harder after shirring. Simply sew the lines from one end of the line to the other, about 1/2 inch apart. The shirring elastic will automatically gather the fabric for you. Be sure to tie the ends to keep them from pulling out, or anchor them with extra stitching.

1. Unwind about 3 or 4 inches of thread from the bobbin. Insert wound bobbin

into bobbin case.

2. Pull trailing thread into the slot of case.

3. Pull thread to the left under the tension spring until thread enters into

delivery eye.

4. Holding bobbin case latch with the metal finer of case pointing up, fit

it into the notch at the top of the shuttle race.

5. Release latch and push case back making sure the case is in the

proper position. Close slide plate.

Note: The thread drawn out of the case is to be left hanging below the race.

Leave about 5-6 inches of thread hanging.

If this doesn't fix your problem, your machine (made by Brother) may need tuning because the needle isn't in the proper position as the hook comes around to catch the bobbin thread.

A repairman that can fix a Brother, Kenmore or Singer will be familiar with this machine.

Two. One from the main spool on top, and the other from the bobbin on the inside of the machine.

The earliest serial number listed on the Singer website is 611000. That machine was made in 1871. http://www.singerco.com/support/serial_numbers.html It is unlikely that your machine is older than that, perhaps you copied a part number from a part, rather than the actual serial number.

In Spanish, sewing is 'coser'. In French, the word used is 'couture'. In German, the word sewing is 'Nahen'. In Italian, they say 'cucire'.

Elias Howe was the inventor of the first practical sewing machine, and took out a patent on the first American made one. He continued pioneering work on the sewing machine, and you can read more about him at the Wikipedia post on this innovator. A link to that post can be found below. also he has a cool name.........

The motion of the needle in a sewing machine is vertically, rapidly up and down.

First, raise the presser foot lever and turn the flywheel towards you to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest point. Next,, place your spool of thread on the horizontal post and hold in place with the spool cap. You know that little nick in the spool where you tuck your thread so the spool won't unravel? Make sure that nick is pointing to the right. Now draw your thread to the left and "click" it into the little silver loop. A 1" oval thread guide sits to the left of that silver loop; draw your thread around the left of the thread guide. Now you're going to loop your thread through the tension discs. You'll see two "cracks" in your machine. First run your thread DOWN through the RIGHT crack, then immediately UP through the LEFT crack. At the top of the LEFT crack is your silver thread take-up lever. This is probably the trickiest part of threading your machine because the lever is always kind of inside the machine. But you can do it! Pass your thread from RIGHT to LEFT through the back of the loop at the top of the silver lever. Whew! We're almost there. Now draw your thread right back down the same crack you pulled it up before. You now have two stationary guides above your needle. Pass it through the thick silver guide and then through the thin silver guide. Both of these moves are kind of a left-to-right motion. Now thread your needle from FRONT to BACK. You're done -- well, except for the bobbin. Hold your bobbin spool above the bobbin case so that it looks like a letter "P" Draw the bobblin thread from RIGHT to LEFT through the small crack in the silver part of the bobbin case, then pull the thread straight toward the back of the machine. Now turn your flywheel one revolution toward you so that your upper thread picks up the bobbin thread. Now close your bobbin cover, and SEW! Congratulations! You did it!

Every commercial pattern producer will have several hoodie/jacket/coat options from which you can choose.

Brands would include Simplicity, Burda, Vogue, Butterick, and McCall's are the cheapest, and most common brand names. These patterns are also suitable for a variety of body types.

You can find these patterns at Wal Mart, as well as anywhere that also sells fabric and sewing supplies.

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What to Look for in a Beginner Sewing Machine

Size

Sewing machine models vary in size, ranging from compact mini-machines to full-size models that may offer more power and features. When deciding what size sewing machine is right for you, consider where you plan to use and store your machine. A mini sewing machine with a small footprint is ideal when you’re short on crafting or storage space. On the other hand, if you have a designated sewing area and are looking for a full-featured machine, then a standard-sized sewing machine will give you all the options. This type of machine might also have a larger table area that makes it more suited to larger sewing projects.

Weight

Sewing machine models vary in much how they weigh, with some portable options weighing as little as 3 pounds and other more heavy-duty models weighing up to 30 pounds. The weight of a sewing machine is important to consider since it may affect how portable the machine is. If you plan to take your sewing machine on the go, such as to crafting classes, quilting groups, or a friend’s house, then you may want to look for a sewing machine that is lightweight.

The motor and housing are the largest determiners of sewing machine weight. Machines made of mostly metal components will weigh significantly more, but the advantage is often greater durability and more stability when working on large projects or heavy materials.

Features

While sewing machines all fit a basic purpose, the available features vary widely and suit many different project needs. When shopping for a sewing machine, check out which accessories are included—like a presser foot, walking foot for quilting, or other specialty accessories that might fit your project needs. Many people appreciate the convenience of a sewing machine with self-threading capability. Other user-friendly features to consider include task lighting, a drop-in bobbin, or button hole maker.

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I believe it is 1963 or at the latest 1964. I remember when we purchased it.

Depends on condition could be 20 bucks to 500

The value is truly very little unless it is in top shape and complete and in working condition. If so the value will depend upon the buyers desire for it not your perceived value. The task before you is to ensure it is complete and in working condition and that you have sought out the right buyer(s). If you are unsure of it's condition or unsure of how to locate a buyer I suggest you seek an antique dealer's opinion and allow them to sell it for a finder's fee.

Singer Sewing Company

The Singer Model 29 series came out in the 1920s and are still used by leather and shoe repair workers because of the long, narrow needle platform. They are incredibly strong and can actually sew through up to 1/2 inch of leather (or folded vinyl, canvass, etc.) and even 1/4 inch of wood. I've used mine for years making vinyl and leather upholstery in the process of restoring a number of cars. Depending upon condition, the value is somewhere between $300 and $800 these days, at least that's what you see on eBay and craigslist.

The name of a professional who sews is different based on the type of sewing. A quilter is a person who makes quilts. A tailor is a person who alters clothing.

kenmore 158.14100

Sewing is one of those things, like languages, that is developed over time. Early versions of clothing would probably have been sewn together, or rich fabrics from places like India would be embroidered; these signs of creating material probably came about in sync with sewing. I cannot tell you exactly who invented the sewing machine, but this came at about the time of the industrial revolution, when small industries and do it at home traditions were kicked away in favour of all-new factories and so on.

Hopefully this is helpful!