Suzuki Samurai

It needs a new 'Shifter Sheet' Easy to put in and not too expensive. It is available on Ebay.

135"

1-3-4-2 for the 1.3 8V

Yes. There is a fuel injected engine and a carbed engine.

By 'right' I'll assume you mean passenger side.

I think what you are describing is the carbon canister for the fuel emissions system.

I don't think there is a single, good answer to your question. Speed is determined by many factors, including but not limited to terrain, elevation, vehicle condition, and gearing ratios of the transfer case and differentials vs tire size.

Generally speaking, a Samurai in decent condition should easily maintain a legal 55+ mph with no difficulty. In mountainous terrain the answer might be: expect to go slower up the mountain than you go down the mountain.

The Samurai is not much of a highway/freeway vehicle. Many owners drive their rigs 70+ mph and do it safely (in terms of vehicle longevity) because the engine and drivetrain has been refreshed or swapped, and the overall gear ratios mesh with their tire sizes.

Where the Samurai shines is offroad. The rig is light, narrow, short and can be made to stand taller for better ground clearance very easily. A Samurai in decent condition climbs like a Goat and is tough as a Rhino. They are also super affordable and their owners often delight in showing up rigs that cost 20 times the Samurai's price tag! And did I mention they are easy and inexpensive to work on and modify!

You can get more information about the operability and roadability of the Samurai from the friendly folks at Zukikrawlers forum. Check them out at http://www.zukikrawlers.com/

:-) zn

Leave your wife or girlfriend in the car.

http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

I'm sure you have already fixed or sold the rig, but for anyone needing info on this, there are 2 ways to find out. Get the Chiltons repair manual and browse that, or go to www.autozone.com, input your vehicle, and click on "Vehicle Repair Guides" under the Repair Info drop-box. After that, click "Engine&engine Overhaul". Once there, click "Cylinder Head" in the right-hand subsection, and read every word thoroughly. For more information about 4x4 Suzuki's, visit www.zukikrawlers.com

GL-5 for gear oil and for engine oil use 10W-30

Download the FREE Suzuki Samurai Shop Manual from http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

zn

Your owner's manual is the best place to locate your fuse box(es) and identify your fuses. Don't rule out that your issue is being caused by a bad bulb too - so check fuses and bulbs. See sources and related links below for bulb information.

The drain plug on the bottom and the filler plug a little higher up on the driver's side are both sized the same. A 15/16" box end wrench should fit. Draining is easy, of course. If the oil is milky from water getting in, check the condition of the rubber boot at the base of the shift lever. Refilling with a light weight gear oil is OK and can best be done with the gear oil container that has a pump. Filling with a squirt can will work, but will take patience.

I don't know for sure, because I never had this happen with one of the 4 samurai's I've had over the years. But my guess is you have a weak electrical system* so that by the time the battery is putting out all those amps to turn over the starter you don't have enough 'ummmph' left over to create an adequate spark. Normally when starting the battery has to put out major amps to turn over the engine, and then more juice through your coil and distributer to make the spark plugs spark. When you are push starting the car all the battery energy is going to the spark plugs (with help from the alternator too), so if it's starting ok that way it probably IS a weak electrical system. NOTE I am assuming the engine would really "turn over"...and not just go click-click-click (another problem, VERY common, caused by not enough juice through the ignition key circuit to activate the starter relay. If it IS a 'click-click-click' trouble write to me and I'll let you know how to work around that.) How to tell if you just have a weak electrical system, and what to do about it? Well, one way is to see if you are getting a decent spark. At night disconnect one of the sparkplug wires (pull it gently off the sparkplug by the rubber boot) and then hold it near some bare grounded metal while someone else cranks the engine. Do you see a spark? Does it look really small and weak, yellow and flickering, or bluish with a nice 'snap' to it? (Humm...if you haven't looked at a spark of a strong running engine this could be hard to tell.) Doing it at night makes it much easier to see the spark. If you aren't getting a good spark you probably have a weak electrical system. Oh yeah, even a WEAK system has enough juice to make you jump if you allow it to ground through you...be sure to hold the open sparkplug wire and boot back from the opening and near bare metal (like the alumimum block) so the spark goes to it and not through you. Won't kill you, but you won't do it twice! In fact, once the engine is running at night, if your spark plug wires are really in bad shape sometimes you can even see sparks from one to another or from the wire to the engine even while everything is plugged in! If you see sparks from wire to wire or wire to block while the engine is running you absolutely need new spark plug wires. OK, lets say you think >maybe< it's a weak system. What else do you do? First check that the cables on the battery are clamped tightly (BOTH the battery and the engine-ends) and that there isn't a lot of corrosion. If it looks like a bunch of green cheese take a wire brush and clean them off. Rinse with a lot of fresh water, and don't get it on you as it will be acidic. Baking soda helps neutralize the acid. (If not used to working around a vehicle wear gloves and eye protection...not bad advice even if you do this stuff a lot.) After you clean up and reattach the cables put a little petroleum jelly over the battery posts and cables, it will help slow down more corrosion in the future. Auto parts stores sell a nice little tool that has an external wire brush to clean the inside of the battery clamp, and in internal wire brush that will clean off your battery posts so they are nice and shiny-fresh. If all that didn't do it for you, think about getting a fresh distributer rotor, distributer cap, (NOT a full disbributer: Just a new cap and rotor), new spark plug wires, and new spark plugs: They are all routine maintenance type items...and if they haven't been changed in 3 or 4 years (or ever!) I'd start there. Get a semi-decent generic set of spark plug wires from Kragen, Autozone, Napa, whatever. Probably around $40. You don't have to buy super duper double platinum spark plugs...get the ones that cost no more than 3 or 4 bucks each. And you don't need "Suzuki Dealer Brand" distributor cap and rotor either. All of this stuff should be had for < $80, and even if it isn't the root cause sometimes these things can be cumulative and it's time to change them out anyway. How old is your battery? Most of the auto parts places I mentioned before will do a free test of how well your battery and charging systems are working. An old battery doesn't have as many cranking amps as a fresh one. I found maybe I'd get around 4 years out of a battery. Likewise a weak alternator won't give the battery a full charge...that's why you have the shop test to tell you if the battery is weak, the alternator is, whatever. It is not a very difficult job to change the alternator out, some bolts up from the top, and remove the splash shield under the engine (if it's still there) and then you can get to the lower bolts. Last time I did this I was 95 miles outside Vegas in the Mojave Desert when my alternator gave out...took me a half hour to pull the old one, a buddy drove me to Vegas to the nearest auto parts store (that's why I know it was 90 miles each way), we also had a nice cheap dinner in a casino, and 9:30 that night I put the new alternator in by flashlight. 4-wheeling is fun isn't it? (ALWAYS go with at least TWO vehicles!) Hope this rambling helps! Paul, prhkgh@comcast.net

no

The throwout bearing is located in the bell housing of the transmission. You will need to remove the transmission from the engine block in order to access the throwout bearing.

I highly recommend all Suzuki Samurai owners download a FREE copy of the factory Suzuki shop manual from the Suzuki Download Archive at http://www.suzukiinfo.com/ Did I mention these are FREE?

Another rich resource for Suzuki owners is the Zukikrawlers forum at http://www.zukikrawlers.com/ The good folks that live at this Suzuki site are the world's friendliest and most helpful. Try 'em - you'll want to move there! :-) zn

There is a part called the Shifter Sheet by Suzuki. This rubber part sits below the shifter ball in the top of the t-case. When it dries up and crumbles away the t-case shifter can get stuck. A new part is only a few dollars and is easy to replace.

If you have this issue, you also probably have a sloppy shifting 5 speed transmission. A new "shifter bolt" will fix this issue.

51 lbs

1-3-4-2 is the firing order on the distributor.

On the 8V 1.3L engine:

#1 is by the radiator and goes in sequence to #4 by the firewall.

On the distributor #1 is on the driver side and the rotor turns clockwise.

I had the same problem on one of my first Samurai. I tied the ground on the bad light to the ground on the good light. Worked like a champ. I just got a Tin-top with the same problem. I am going to try the same. Hope this helps. Dennis

Download the FREE Suzuki Samurai Shop Manual from http://www.suzukiinfo.com/.

zn

The calipers or wheel cylinders are bad.

Try pulling the heater ducting apart near the fan box, found under the dash passenger side. It is probably full of leaves etc. Remove all debris and reassemble.if you are trying to get the dash vents to blow hot air they were not designed to work that way they only blow hot air threw defroster,foot and in front of shifter and outter dash vents i replaced the entire blower motor assembly than called suzuki to ask why the center dash vents dont blow hot air he informed me that this is a common complaint but they were never designed to blow hot air

In 1986 it became the SJ413. It went from a 1.0 to a 1.3 liter engine and a host of other changes and safety devices to allow for import into the U.S.