Swimming Pools

If you need a new vinyl liner then measure the length and the width, then measure depth of shallow end and depth of deep end. Make a sketch of the sizes and go to your pool dealer and they will give you a price. To get the liner perfectly fitting they should visit your pool and take many different measurements before ordering any liners.

Should you want your pool relined with fibre glass instead of vinyl, then work out the total square metres of the pool (that's walls and floor and any built in steps) then multiply your total by £55 and you will have an approx price for fibre glassing.

Good luck Barry. highfibregrp.

in a residence yard in a mobile home == Most areas of the country require a 4 foot high fence where other need 5 foot high. There are other considerations you need to think about as well. The horizontal members (like on a wood, vinyl or ornamental fence) need to be at least 45 inches apart and the vertical members (pickets) have to be spaced less than 4 inches apart. Your gate needs to be self-closing and self-latching. The latch also needs to be mounted in such a way that the release mechanism is 54 inches up from the bottom of the gate frame. Most manufacturers have specific designs meant to pass the pool code, I recommend you take advantage of these. You should also check with your local department of inspections because every area may vary some. This will soon become a thing of the past because back in December of 2007 a national pool code was signed into law. This law puts the Consumer Product Safety Commission ( CPSC ) in charge of standardizing these laws. For years the CPSC has had some excellent brochures on pool safety enclosures. The law is called the Virginia Graeme Baker Pool & Spa Safety Act of 2007 . Please check the links below for more information.

If you have purchased Saline System equipment, you add regular 'salt' to the pool water. The salt (sodium chloride) is pure evaporated ocean salt - the same as you would use at the dinner table. Use 'rock' salt, but make sure it is sodium chloride and not potassium chloride (which is sold for some types of water softeners). Minimum salinty varies with the brand of saline system equipment, but is usually in the 3000-4000ppm range. 3000ppm is the same as 0.3%, by weight. Multply gallons x 8.33 to get weight of water in pounds, then x 0.003 to get pounds of salt.

Yes without a doubt they work, but depending on your situation. First let me explain how solar blankets work. The blanket is tinted blue and has air pockets it looks like the bubble packing material that everyone loves to pop, but you cannot pop this material because it is between 8-12 mils thick. The blanket is designed to do 2 things, first is heat the pool water by absorbing sunlight that heats the blanket. The water in turn cools the blanket. As this occurs the heat of the blanket is exchanged with the pool water. The more sunlight the pool gets the faster the pool will heat. On average with full sun you can expect a degree a day so in about 7-10 days you will have about a 10-degree increase. The other thing a solar blanket does is trap heat in the pool water. At night when it gets cool the pool water will begin to condense out of the pool that is the fog you see rising from the pool, this draws the heat out of the water. The solar blanket bocks this from happening so all that heat you built up will stay in the pool. So you get the heating during the day (the solar part of the equation) and you get the thermal protection at night (the blanket part of the equation). If you don't get much sun on the pool the blanket will not heat the pool. So the bottom line is no sun on the pool no heating effect from the blanket. Sun on the pool for at least 5+ hours you will get heat! If you have a heater on the pool, regardless of they type of heater, you will want a solar blanket to trap the heat in the pool. If you are using gas or electric heat the blanket should cut your heating cost in half. If you are using a solar panel you will need it to trap the heat in other wise you may not be able to maintain the temperature when it gets real cold. == Solar Cover Yes not only do they keep heat in your water they keep chemicals in also. During hot days they do heat the water. HOWEVER, in my opinion depending on how large your pool is you may find that dealing with this giant piece of bubble wrap is just too much work. The pool is supposed to be fun and I must say rolling it out, rolling it back up took so much work for me it just wasn't worth it.

Roughly somewhere between 5 and 30 minutes, depending on how much and how effective the chemical(s) put into the pool are and whether or not they are safe to swim in immdiately after they're mixed with the pool water.

No, animals will not be harmed by drinking water treated by a salt sanitization system.

The amount of salt in a saltwater treated pool is very low (around 0.5%, which is one-half of one-percent). This concentration of salt is about half as much as a teardrop (1%) and nearly eight times less than sea water (3.75%).

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To understand what color is "best", one needs to understand what effect(s) a blanket has on a pool.

First, a blanket prevents heat loss through evaporation. All covers are equal at that task. Secondly, a blanket prevents heat loss through insulation (this effect only works at night, when the pool water is warmer than the surrounding air). For this, again color doesn't matter, though covers with embedded air bubbles are more effective.

Finally, a cover can add to heat production via sunlight. Here is where color matters. A black cover absorbs more sunlight at the cover itself, making it much hotter. A clear cover lets more through to the pool itself, letting the water absorb the sun's radiation.

So which is more effective? Depends on whether you want "fast" heating or "highest temperature". The black cover will heat a cold pool faster...but will reach a lower overall temperature. This is because the high temperature gradient at the cover itself means increased heat loss due to surface radiation. The clear cover works somewhat slower...but ultimately will reach a higher temperature.

Colors such as blue lie midway between these two effects.

But in the final analysis, the differences between colors are fairly minor. A dark cover will, though, breakdown faster, as its greater absorption breaks down the plastic faster.

Black - Blue-dark - Blue-light - Clear, with Black being most effective, in that order.

But the differences between black and the other types are not very great, so many people make their choice based on other factors:

- appearance (some people don't like the look of a black pool cover)

- cost (some retailers charge different prices)

- availability (some retailers only stock certain colors).

I would say that Blue is probably the most common.

For an opposing viewpoint: During the day, solar energy from the sun heats the pool. You see all sorts of claims from cover manufacturers that their blanket "heat" the pool. This is false. All blankets block some of the solar energy coming from the sun. So which one blocks it the least? According to an unbiased government report I read, clear covers block 5-15% of the sun, while colored ones block 20-40%. So it's clear that clear is the way to go (sorry about the pun). The question then becomes, should I uncover my pool during the day when it is not in use? It depends. On calm, humid days, take it off for maximum heating. On dry, windy days, the evaporation loss out weighs the cover loss, so leave it on. Always leave it on on cloudy days and at night.

Over all I would say black, although any dark color would work, because dark colors absorb more energy unlike light colors that repel. It's kind of like wearing dark clothes in the winter and light clothes in the summer.

Use a clear cover to heat your pool. Use a black cover if you live someplace very hot and you need to cool your pool. A clear cover permits the maximum light in a pool while minimizing the evaporation. A black cover reduces the light that can heat your pool.

The US Department of Energy has a very good page devoted to the subject. They say that the purpose of the pool cover is to permit light into the pool (thus heating) and reduce evaporation.

If not much foam, wait and keep running the filter. Ah, ha, you DID NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LABEL. Now you'll just have to wait until it decides to dissapate. YOU ARE RUDE...........

"Pool cleaning service vary greatly depending on what size pool you have, and where you live. Many charge around $200-$300 for the initial cleaning, but if you hire them to maintain your pool for an entire season there may be a reduced price on the inital begining of summer maintanence."

One mile is 1,760 yards. A 75 foot pool is actually a standard swimming pool, 25 yards. 6 laps per day would be 150 yards. That would 1,500 for 10 days.

1,760 - 1,500 is 260 yards short of one miles.

The blue powder is probably from the heater. The copper in the heater has a tendency to leave blue powder in some pools. New: Does that blue powder brush off? Is the "powder" a stain more like the color of copper? When have you cleaned the filter last? Copper seems to be the answer. But what is causing it? Are you maintaining the pH balance of 7.6 -7.8? Or are they consistently at 6.8 - if the latter then it is copper stains and most likely you are not at the 6.8 level. If you could take a digital reading of the pH it would most likely read at close to 3.0. Adjust you pH and alkalinity to proper levels and in the future test the water to see what the demand is for pH etc. Don't guess. Having an acidic pool harms the plaster and the pool equipment especially the heater. You no doubt have reduced the life of all by half. Hope the blue is something else. What have you recently added and how much to the pool water that may have caused this?

K

18 x 18 x 4 (Average depth) x 5.9 (Factor used for gallons per cubic foot for that particular shape) = 7,646 US gallons.

Yes by putting an even layer of sand down you will protect the liner from the irregularity's in the ground and absorb impact from above.

Air is getting in to the system somewhere. Check to see if your vacuum hose hase a hole in it. Check the pump strainer lid o-ring, is it lubed propely, cracked or dry rotted?

Swimming in light showers is normally fine, but not in an outdoor pool during a thunderstorm. Lightning is a very real risk to swimmers, and everyone should leave the pool at the first sound of thunder, or sight of lightning or dangerous clouds.

It depends how much you use it. If you use it a lot then yes. If you don't use it a ton then you don't need it. however if it is outside then it needs chlorine no matter how much you use it.

Yes, an above ground pool sitting on the grass will eventually kill the grass. Most above ground pool manufacturers recommend that you remove the grass before filling the pool because the grass can also harm the liner over a long time. The actual chlorine in the pool water is unlikely to damage the grass on its own. More likely is that the water itself may damage depending on how much water gets splashed out; the exact type of grass; and how well the ground drains.

so that the room get's conversation from the warmth given in changing rooms.

I know that the first Asian to win a gold medal in the men's 400m freestyle was Tae Hwan Park of South Korea who was also the first Korean to win a gold medal for swimming at the Olympics. He also won a silver medal in the 200m freestyle - he was beaten by Michael Phelps. He won these medals in the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

In simplest terms, an above ground pool pump is a flooded suction pump, which means the water level must be higher than the pump for it to operate, and an inground pump has the ability to draw water up from a level lower than the pump. The engineering and structure of these two different types of pumps is what makes them work the way they do. This means that, in a typical installation, you could use an inground-specific pump on an above ground pool, but not an above ground pump on an inground pool with the water level below the pump.

It depends one what pool you go to. There are some swimming pools that have lines on the bottom and there are others that do not

Alkalinity first! First check to see where the total alkalinity is in PPM, then determine how many PPM change is needed to reach your target reading. Caution, I alway aim for 10 to 20 PPM below my ideal reading, because when you begin to adjust the pH, the TA will rise.

yessss :D

beth and lauren. alcester grammar!

well i think its a rather silly question abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz now i no my abc come and have a bath with me

yess u canc drink watrer but it has clorine and womens hormones from sewage

A gunite pool shell IS waterproof before plastering.

First, gunite/shotcrete is not water proof. The reason for the plaster is to make the pool water proof. You don't have to and should not water proof gunite because it will affect the bonding properties for the plaster.

Contrary to the previous answer, Gunite is in fact "waterProof" when correctly applied. Unless there are improperly prep'd cold-joints (the point at which one application has stopped for some reason -perhaps rain, slow truck turnaround, etc- and begun at a later time), a Gunite pool could virtually be "painted", providing a high steel-trowel finish was applied to the Gunite. But, Gunite pops (begins to set and cure) faster than typically appied Marblite or Diamond Bright type cementitious finishes. Actually, the Gunite "finish" surface is purposely left fairly rouch, providing a better surface to which the finish/color material may bond.

A pool liner is a material made out of a substance like vinyl, installed to retain water in the pool and prevent leakages to the pool walls and floor. The walls of your pool are made of concrete; water leakages weaken the integrity of these concrete structures. A pool liner stops possible damages to the concrete by preventing leaks.

If your pool is tiled, there’s a liner between the tiles and the pool.

1. Pool liners have an average lifespan of ten years, though this may be affected by some factors. One of these is the chemical (im)balance of your pool. A chemically imbalanced pool will bring quicker damage to the lining of the pool, due to the high concentration of chemicals in the water.