Toyota Echo

Depends on the driver. It can get up to 40MPG highway, 32 or higher city. I average 35 to 38 on mine.

I think a general rule of thumb would be about 150,000 miles, but personally I would only change it if there is a problem. A problem will be indicated by small leaks which should be obvious (you will see coolant on the ground and coolant levels declining), or by the pump making a lot of noise. If the temperature malfunction light comes on however, you should stop driving the car.

Changing out your water pump on your own is a very difficult job with the Echo, see other answers for how it is done, but I recommend you pay a professional to do it. The cost should be around $300 for parts and labor (the pump itself is a $25-$40 part). It can take several hours to complete this job.

Remove the immobilizer unit?

http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/oilchange.msnw

manual recommends Dot 3.

Under the dash, on the passangers side.

It has a 108 horsepower 1.5-liter engine. But if you are asking this question - you are probably looking at the wrong car! :) You should be asking what the total cost of ownership is and how many miles per gallon it gets. That said, this car has a lot of zip due to its light weight. It can do 0-60 surprisingly fast, and can even tow 2000 lbs (has mounts for a hitch).

You may simply need to clean the MAF Sensor. Simple fix.

I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like an electrical problem if the guages don't work - but what guages are you talking about? Fuel gauge for example? I'd take it to the dealer.

It is STRONGLY recommended that you detach the air intake hoses first, these are easy to remove temporarily and this will give you the needed room to open and close the air box. If you are persistant enough, you CAN do it without removing the hoses, but I would not recommend it as you could tear a hose or not property close the air filter box (rear hinges properly in place) when done which would be VERY bad for your engine. One thing you could do is install a K&N performance air filter (for echo the model number is 33-2211) that only needs cleaning every 50,000 miles. You might save some money on replacement air filters, improve performance, and not have to deal with as many air filter servicings. However some research has shown that these can allow more particles through than traditional paper air filters, so they might not be the best long term for your engine and I personally would not recommend them. When you change the air filter, remove the air intake hoses (technically its one piece, but there is a secondary hose too, so you must detach in two places. This is not THAT big a deal, there is one big clamp which can be loosened with the attached screw, and the smaller hose clamp can be loosened just with pressure on the spring release. After you remove these, the job is easy. Be sure to wipe down all areas around the air filter box first with a wet paper towel, this will prevent dust/dirt from getting into the air filter components. Step by step details with pictures of an air filter change can be found here: http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/airfilterandmafsensorcleaning.msnw

oil filter, which would normally have been changed each time the oil has been replaced. every 5000 - 10000Km (3000-6000M)

air filter should also have been done regularly. depending on conditions of where the car has been driven, aprox. every 15000 - 20000Km (9000-12000M) , but check the owners manual to be certain.

it is also a good practice to flush & replace the brake fluid & clutch fluid every 50000 - 100000Km (30000-60000M)

some manufactures books recommend checking certain engine bolts, & seat belt bolts to ensure they are still firm (occasionally, i.e every 50 - 100thou Km)(30000-60000M)

brake pads would have been replaced at least 3 times (& of course a few sets of tyres)

possible that CV joints may have needed replacing, but only if they would have needed it.

replace plugs, if already replaced, replace coil that is plugged into sparkplugs.

Could be many things really - but yes if plugs are old, replace them first. Engines also misfire when they do not have the expected amount of fuel and air, so any problem with either of those could cause a misfire (air filter clog, fuel pump dying, bad fuel injector, bad wiring to the plugs or fuel injectors). Not likely, but if you hear a lot of noise, a bad timing chain could also be responsible.

It is also possible that a bad MAF or O2 sensor could cause a misfire. If your O2 sensors are old (>100k miles) you should replace them, only use genuine Denso replacements (they can be bought for around $35 shipped), other brands do not work well with Toyota's extra sensitive requirements.

To stop running the DRL daytime running lights in the 2005 Toyota Echo the headlight relay needs to be modified. The DRL module on the relay needs to be cut and relay inserted into the harness.

You can either fix whatever problem is causing it, or have it reset with a code reader. If you reset it with a code reader, chances are it will come back on.

$5

drl main relay location at left side of the dash panel , you can not disable drl from relay No. 5 , I will tell you how to disable drl Toyota echo . first you pull out toward you the dash panel cover , it will come out easy , you will find at left side of panel two small boxes fixed on a bar , first one is red door lock/ unlock relay , you have to loose from bar to reach the second one which is black , that black one is drl main relay , only you have to take out harrness and no drl any more but in this case your parking brake lights will not go on if you use park brake , another way you can cut the red wire in harness pin 12 and return back harness to relay , your parking brake light will be working only you disable drl , hope you understand ?

I had the same problem, in searching the internet I've found lots of people that reported this same problem. The head unit (stock) still works fine, the light comes on, I can scan for radio stations, CDs act like they are playing, etc. but no sound come out at any volume. There is no mute. The radio fuse is located in the fuse box below and to the left of the steering wheel, at the back of the storage compartment behind a plastic cover that says "fuse" on it. The one related to the radio is labeled "ACC" on the sticker on the plastic panel. But this fuse is not broken. I checked all the fuses, none are broken.

The problem turned out to be a short in the rear speaker wiring. This is common because Toyota puts very cheap speakers back there with flimsy wiring that also hangs down into the top of the trunk space - if a bag, box, stroller, etc. bangs into it, the wiring can easily short out.

You can temporarily disconnect the rear speakers if damage is obvious, and tape up the wires to prevent the short. Replacing them is a good solution, not very difficult or expensive. They are 6x9 oval size.

Cylinder 1 is located in Cylinder Bank One. A V6 or V8 will have 2 banks of cylinders. A 4 cylinder only has 1 bank of cylinders.

I'm just guessing as I'm doing the brakes on this car that my sister-in-law owns, but they're probably permanently lubed for the life of the joint.

You can buy a new, book (paper) version directly from the Toyota website, but they are expensive. I don't know why they don't sell cheap electronic versions (are they really focused on profits from repair manuals??). I bought my repair manual used on eBay for a big discount over new so do some searching.

Finally, its totally unauthorized, but if you really search, you can find an electroinc (PDF) version of the echo/yaris repair manual floating around for free on the internet. I believe its technically the 1998 Yaris manual, but its pretty much identical to the 2000-2002 Echo manual although its missing some portions of the real manual.

Two. One before, and one after, the catalytic converter. The one before the catalytic converter (closer to the front of the car) is more critical and usually first to be replaced, although both have a recommended replacement interval of 100,000 miles.

You need a battery that will; a) physically fit the spot where the battery is mounted, b) has specs that match or are compatible with the manufacturers requirements for the vehicle, c) will allow for operation in your climate/conditions and use of any additional accessories without affecting starting and charging of your electrical system.

any reputable shop selling batteries will be able to sell you the required battery. I do not recommend buying used and make sure the physical dimensions of the battery match the original, including location/type of terminals; do not use terminal adapters unless absolutely necessary.

The light comes on with 2 gallons still left in the tank, so you could potentially drive 60 to 80 miles before refueling, although it is considered bad practice to wait until the last drop runs out, you could damage the fuel pump or get stranded somewhere.

Its about a foot toward the front of the car from the oil drain bolt, but up a little, you have to reach up to untwist it.

Open hood , remove neg battery cable , remove intake hose , air filter box , remove throttle body and wires , water hoses that are connected to it , remove intake manifold , there are 2 sensors under the intake , one of them is the oil press switch , other one is the knock sensor , knock sensor is the one closest to the cylinder head