Toyota Echo

Your car has the 1NZ-FE engine featuring VVT-i (variable valve timing with intelligence). This is a non-interference engine, with a timing chain. While a broken chain could cause damage to your engine, it is less likely to cause damage on a non-interference engine, and if the chain is damaged (but not completely snapped) you will often know it because it will make a lot of noise (stop driving it at that point and get the chain replaced). The chain is generally considered good for 250,000 miles unless it begins making noise.

I'm definitely not an expert in this area, but you can choose from different output alternators based on your power needs. For example if you have a big power drain from some custom sound system or gadgets you power from the car (but most common car gadgets like GPS or cell phone charger don't use much power at all), then you would want to go with a higher amp alternator. 70 amps should be plenty for normal use. The lower amp units are generally less expensive. But from what I understand, it should not use any additional gas to use a higher amp alternator UNLESS you are actually drawing the extra power from it.

Best thing to do is look at the sticker on the driver door jam or door and read the g.v.w

the gvw is not the curb weight, it is the max weight of the vehicle including passengers and luggage

I'm pretty sure there will be no fuel pump on the 20,000 toyota echo. Also pretty sure there won't be a 20,000 toyota echo. But if you want to check the fuel pump on a 2000 toyota echo, see related links and questions.

Yes, all cigarette lighters are protected by a fuse. It may be using the radio fuse.

There are two gaskets, so I'm not sure what one you are talking about. There is one toward the front of the car, before the catalytic converter, and the other is between the catalytic converter and the muffler where there is a joint of two pipes.

To change the front gasket, you need to remove two bolts using a deep socket extension (you may need a breaker bar to get them loose), then you need to remove the big black rubber hangers that hold the entire exhaust piece to the bottom of the car. You need to clean the pegs first if they are dirty or rusty, then apply lubricant generously, then use an awl or similar thin metal object (a nail maybe?) to pry the rubber holder over and off of the peg attached to the exhaust. There are several of these and you need to remove all of them. You should have something ready to support the weight of the parts as them come down (empty boxes or buckets maybe). Once they are all off, you can pull out the entire exhaust system, you can then change the front gasket as well as other tasks like cutting out and welding in a new catalytic converter.

The rear gasket is easier because the piece the muffler is attached to can come off separately from the rest of the exhaust system. Look for the joint a few feet from the tail pipe, there is one 12mm bolt holding the joint together. Remove this bolt and the metal bracket unfolds so you can pull it away from the pipe. Note that this bolt can rust up and be extremely difficult to remove - you may need to actually cut it off and replace it with a new one which isn't that difficult with a grinder. Once the bracket is off, you need to remove the rubber holders as described above, but only the ones from the tailpipe to the joint. You may need a rubber mallet to separate the two pipes but there is nothing really holding them together except perhaps some rust. The gasket is inside this joint, you will see it when you pull the pipes apart, and it is easy to replace. You can also put high temperature silicone sealant around this joint and inside the channel of the metal bracket that binds the joint together in addition to replacing the gasket.

First, look at the obvious things. Is the a/c actually running. If it is and the a/c bely is properly tightened, you may need to add the chemical coolant to the system.

Often, its an issue where one of the parties is using the phone in speaker phone mode. You can ask them to not use speaker phone mode. If that is not the issue, then contact your carrier and complain.

Replacing a transmission is not a do-it-yourself type of job, but I'm sure if you had the time, a shop manual, and a lot of patience, it could be done. A lift would also be nice. Good luck. Personally I would take it to a transmission shop.

I bought a used jeep Cherokee that would stall out if you did not keep it revved up.

The night before my wife's first day at a new job I found the problem on my dining room table.

I thought that it was a carburetor problem, so I bought a carburetor rebuild kit for it.

That night while I was following the directions on how to replace needle valves and gaskets, I realized that the carb had two halves to it, one bolted on top of the other.

The curious thing was that someone had tapped threads into both halves and since both were threaded they could never really pull completely together and tighten down, thus not making a good seal and allowing too much air to be sucked into it.

With too much air entering the carb, the amount of gas had to be increased to keep the mixture ratio correct to keep running.

So maybe your mixture ratio is too lean and needs more gas or less air.

Full instructions can be found here:

http://wwww.gordosoft.com/echo/How-to-change-post-cat-O2-sensor-Toyota-Echo.pdf

(NOTE: This was online but I can't seem to pull it up now so I'm sharing a copy I made, its an excellent tutorial)

This is all the way over on the passenger side, its the top/frontmost thing touched by the drive belt, you need to remove the bolts holding it on and throw the new one in, and then put the drive belt back on, easier than you think

A manual (transmission) car has 3 foot pedals. You use your left foot on the CLUTCH on the far left. Your right foot is used for the BRAKE in the middle and the ACCELERATOR on the far right. The harder you press the ACCELERATOR with your right foot, the faster you accelerate. The harder you press the BRAKE pedal the more pressure is applied to the brakes, slowing you down quicker. The CLUTCH pedal when pushed in far enough, will disengage the gears from the engine, allowing you to change gears. When you lift your left foot, the clutch engages the engine to the gears and will provide power to your gears, and in turn, to your wheels.

And what if you have an Parking brake operated by foot and its a manual ? O-o 4 pedals !

You have a blocked vent, its more common than you might think, lots of info if you google it. Most vehicles have a vent that allows for the displacement of the air in the tank as you are filling it, and if the vent is plugged the air cannot escape and the fuel filer nozzle will shut off. The evaporative system vent needs to be checked.

Depends on the plugs. This model year came with Iridium plugs that are capable of lasting more than 100,000 miles. I used mine for 120,000 miles. If you replaced them, you should go by the recommendation of the manufacturer of the new plugs. Some are only good for 20,000 miles, the average might be 30,000-40,000 miles. If you notice a drop off in fuel economy or any type of engine performance problem or sometimes a check engine light related to the plugs, then you probably waited too long to replace them.

Look at the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) dip stick - this will tell you both the level, and quality of the ATF. Fresh ATF is bright red and has a distinct petroleum smell. If the dipstick shows a low level, is off color, has black specks in it, or smells like burnt toast, your transmission fluid is no good, and the tranny may already be damaged. By the way, changing it at that point may cause more harm than good.

I know this diagram applies to 2000-2002 models for sure, but it probably applies to other years as well: http://wwww.gordosoft.com:443/VViz//echodrivebelt.jpg Its an easy job. I do recommend using penetrating oil on the alternator bracket and bolts and loosening ALL THREE bolts (one lower, two on the bracket itself) to remove or remount the drive belt. You don' t have to go nuts in tightening it, but you should pry the alternator forward as best you can.

4 x 100

Pull the knobs of the air conditioning off, then unscrew panel (using a plus-head screwdriver). You have a three wired plug-in's that's attached to the back of the console (you might need a flat-head screwdriver to unclip them) that need to be removed. I think that you'll also have to unplug the cigarette lighter from the console too. The whole thing takes about five minutes to remove the console from the Echo.

(3.7 liters or 3.9 quarts, 5-30 SAE)

This includes the oil in the filter.

For a detailed explanation - including many visuals - see the .pdf file via the Related link.

Under the car, towards the rear, on the driver's side. You should get the service manual if you want to identify it. Also note that MIL's related to the canister should not automatically be assumed to be a problem with the canister, they can be triggered by a hose that came off under the hood near the air filter or at the VSV valve, could also be a leaky hose.

Check Oil Pressure Switch. It's about $60 at Toyota

Depends on the driver. It can get up to 40MPG highway, 32 or higher city. I average 35 to 38 on mine.

The install is difficult because insert hole is on driver's side, closest to firewall. The Toyota dealer charges $150 for part and install. Canadian Tire charges less than $100 (both less tax) Part is same. Install time charged at CT in Westbank, BC was 1/2 hour and part was $46. Routed cord myself. Heater is not inserted inside block but is clipped in place to heat the outside of the block.