It is part of the mass air flow meter which is located in the air intake tube just after the air cleaner.
it takes about an hour to do it. and it's easy.
wow, thanks for nothing. since there isn't a category for pre 95 Toyota pickups on this site, we have to assume that 93 pickup is what they meant. as far as the headlights, i believe you have to take the whole assembly out, the bulbs don't look like they can be replace seperately on my 94 at least. here's a link to a site that explains it better...http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281540&highlight=headlight
Toyota didnt make tacomas until 1995
There aren't bulbs in the digital display of a 94 Towncar. The whole cluster had to be replaced with a good one and needs to be calibrated to your mileage and such. Check with your local dealer after obtaining a replacement. I would start with a junkyard for replacements.
Pretty positive they don't have one.
if your speed sensors are failing you will get a light on your dash either abs or taction control light you will no longer have abs or trac control
Sportsters vent their rockerboxes into the airbox. Why? It gives a chance for the oil vapors to be combusted along with the gasoline instead of being vented to the atmosphere.
Quick rundown on pressures. High pressure likes to flow to low pressure. That's what makes sucking soda through a straw work. Well, the crank case of a sportster is pretty high pressure. When combustion happens in the cylinder, a small amount of the combustion gases leak past the rings into the lower parts of the engine, increasing the pressures there. These over pressures are moved up the pushrod tubes to the rocker boxes. Now you have higher pressures in the rockerboxes.
Where do the rockerboxes vent into? The air box. The air box has the engine sucking air out of it. This makes a low pressure.
Boom: High pressure to low pressure.
When you rev the throttle or even let it run steady on the interstate for a while, you allow the pressures to pull more oil out of your rockerboxes into the air box, saturating your air cleaner, and later in really kickin' engines, your pants leg.
How do you fix this? Well, going with a K&N filter set up (aka Screamin' Eagle Air Cleaner) is a good first start, 'cause those air elements can be cleaned. There are other solutions that have been tried like boring out (slightly!!!) the oil return port on the rockerbox. You can also put on a "horseshoe" that plugs the ports into the airbox and vents the rockerboxes to a small hose with a filter added to the end.AnswerAn overfull oil tank will do it. Even if not overfull just about all harley's will blow oil out the air filter. Unless there is a bunch of oil coming out, it's not a problem
What I've found is that the air filter eventually gets saturated and then starts to leak through. The level in the oil tank doesn't seem to matter. If you change the air filter the problem goes away, until the new one gets saturated and then it starts all over again. My plan is to get a K&N air filter, which you can clean yourself and save having to buy a new air filter every 4,000 miles or so.AnswerI had a sportster 1200 custom and now have a 85 wide glide and i can tell you keep from Twisting the throttle to much and you will notice less oil in the filter. The answer takes the fun out of Harley's but it blows oil when your wrapping it out for fun. If a person stays off the throttle you will notice that the filter will not have near as much oil in it.
A clogged tappet screen.
Buy a oil breather kit if you dont burnt oil will build up on top of the piston fauling out plugs and giving bad gas mileage and if its carberated it will clog up the carb !
The best thing would be to get a vacuum schematic. Get one from MOTORLIT.COM. You might also try to obtain an original Toyota workshop manual for the 22RE engine. Take a look under the hood of your vehicle....there should be a sticker (unless you have replaced the hood for some reason), that will show you a diagram of the vaccuum lines and where they are correctly connected. If you cannot find this sticker, try asking your local Toyota dealership for a copy of the sticker, diagrams from their repair manuals, or look into purchasing a Chilton's Repair Manual at your local auto parts store (about $20.00).
look for a tensioner pulley, if you don't know what it looks like. then go to the nearest auto motive store and buy the book on your car. there should be a diagram on how the belt goes around the other pulleys if it is just one big belt, if not then look on the alternator bracket there should be around three bolts that need to be loosened. be sure the belt is tight before you tighten the bolts,put some pressure on the altenator. Hope the info helps...
It depends on which engine you have but it should be in the intake manifold. There should be a hose going from it to the throtle body.
it has 3, one by your left foot (kick panel)
one under the hood right behind the battery
and the is a small box behind the glove box tha holds 2 or 3 fuses
4.5 quarts with a new filter.
There is a solenoid & plunger next to the ignition switch inside the steering column that stops functioning. The plunger must be retracted in order for the switch to turn all the way so the key can be removed. I manually inserted the plunger and took out the key.
This part failed in my 2001 Grand Prix GT as well about a year ago. My local mechanic explained the part and what it does to me and recommended to just remove it and not reinstall a new one.
As it was explained to me, this interlock makes sure that the car is in PARK before allowing key removal. Note that without it, the ingnition can be switched off and the key can be removed while the car is moving (a dirty trick, which will lock the steering wheel). Also, without it, you might accidentally shut the car off and remove the key while parking without actually putting it in PARK.
Probably a nice interlock to have.
OR - You have the vehicle in gear. Shift to park and remove.
I thought the solenoid/plunger was the problem with our 01 Grand Prix GT as well (couldn't remove key and the steering wheel didn't lock) but the GM service shop told me the problem was the solenoid(?) at the base of the shift lever on the center console. Required replacement of the entire shift lever assembly as can't replace the solenoid part only. Total bill was $821.67 parts & labor. Bit of a shocker! Am wondering if I was taken!?
Let me put my 2 cents in, I have been dealing with the same problem for about 2 years. My work around is to tilt the sterring wheel up and reach under the column and press up on the solenoid while I turn the key out of the lock. A lot cheaoer than a repair.
I just had to deal with a somewhat similar situation. I have an '03 GTP, coming home from work when I would go to use my directional the engine would shut down, every freaking light on the dash would begin to flash like a bad Las Vegas sign. The key wouldn't come out as well.
I got the car home and started checking the harnes for breaks. Everything was fine, good continuity on all the wires (combination switch, ignition switch, series II and leads to keyed tumbler). After doing some reading and talking with a fantastic non-GM mechanic I replaced the ignition switch itself.
Everything previously mentioned goes through the ignition switch and reports to the security system and, as far as my experience goes, grabs your key and holds it. Also, the book says you don't have to have power on to reset the ignition tumblers - BALOGNEY! If the battery isn't connected, the ignition won't cycle properly allowing the tumblers to seat correctly and the plunger to release your key! $94.00 cost for the new ignition switch purchased at an aftermarket parts shop. :)
The Cv joint in the front axle has worn out and needs to be replaced. Most of the time it is cheaper to replace the whole axle than to rebuild just the joint itself. I would suggest that you investigate the bearing(s) at the top of the strut tower. If the popping occurs when you turn the steering wheel, then it is this bearing not the CV joint... the CV joint will make noise as the front wheels are turning. Your question seems to indicate the problem when turning the steering wheel. It could be one or both of the bearings on either side. Judging by the year, this could be the problem. It requires dropping the strut and replacement of the bearing then a wheel alignment for either one or both bearings.
I'm pretty positive they don't have one. If there is one available it's as an after-market add-on.
FRANKLY, TIS OPERATION SHOULD BE LEFT TO FACTORY TRAINED TOUOTA TECHNICIANS.
Chuck25 year retired Toyota Service Manager
To keep from messing something up, get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM
Timing belt replacement
1) REMOVE ENGINE UNDERCOVERAlso known as the factory skid plate.
2) DRAIN ENGINE COOLANTFrom the radiator drain valve. Of course, make sure the radiator is cool to the touch before draining! Also remove the radiator cap.
3) DISCONNECT UPPER RADIATOR HOSEActually, completely remove the upper hose. If you plan on replacing the water pump, you might as well remove the lower hose from the thermostat housing also.
4) DISCONNECT POWER STEERING PUMP FROM ENGINEAt this point the FSM instructs you to disconnect two power steering (PS) hoses from the air intake chamber, and to remove the bolt holding the PS pressure tube clamp to the frame. We didn't perform either of these two steps. Next, remove the PS drive belt by first loosening the adjuster clamp nut, then backing off the adjuster itself. Once it's loose, go ahead and unbolt the adjuster bracket from the water pump housing, and move the pump away from the engine.
5) DISCONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR FROM ENGINEFrom underneath the vehicle, loosen the adjuster clamp nut, then the adjuster, until the drive belt is slack. In this step the FSM has you remove the A/C compressor. The reason for the removal is to gain access to the timing belt tensioner. By using the special Snap-On tool, we'll avoid having to unbolt the compressor from the engine.
6) LOOSEN FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND FAN PULLEYSIf the fan pulley wants to rotate while you try to loosen the nuts, the shank of a screwdriver may be wedged between two studs to hold the pulley.
7) REMOVE DRIVE BELT FOR ALTERNATORFrom underneath the vehicle, loosen the adjuster clamp nut, then the adjuster, until the drive belt is slack. (On supercharged V6s, first remove the oil dipstick and dipstick tube by unbolting it from the engine. Then use a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar to release the automatic tensioner and remove the belt from one of the pulleys. If replacing the water pump, the whole tensioner assembly can be removed now.)
8) REMOVE NO. 2 FAN SHROUDThe fan shroud is two pieces. The bottom section is held on with two clips. Instead of separating the two pieces, remove the fan first, then just remove four bolts and take out the whole shroud.
9)REMOVE DIPSTICK AND GUIDERemove the bolt, oil dipstick, dipstick tube, and the o-ring. Block the hole from the dipstick tube so coolant doesn't get into the crankcase if you are replacing the water pump.
10)REMOVE NO. 2 TIMING BELT COVERDisconnect four spark plug wire clamps from the top of the cover. Remove six bolts around the cover. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector by pinching the locking tab. Then twist the connector to release it from the cover. After the timing belt cover is removed, inspect below and behind the camshaft timing pulleys for any leakage from the seals. You want to discover this before going any further, since their replacement is beyond the scope of a diy. Remember to also inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any leakage or worn bearings as components are removed in the steps that follow.
11)REMOVE THE FAN BRACKETIt really is just a bracket, the water pump is behind it.
12)REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEYThe FSM calls for a special service tool to hold the pulley while you loosen the bolt, but you may be able to make the tool yourself. We used 1/2" thick steel plate cut 5" square, then welded to a long bar for leverage. The pulley bolt takes a 19mm socket, so we cut a hole in the center of the plate to clear the socket, and drilled two 3/8" holes to fit the shank of two 3/8" drill bits. The pulley has two 3/8" holes in it, so if you space the two 3/8" drill bits 3.27" apart (measured to the outside of the drill bits), they will fit perfectly into the pulley holes.
13)REMOVE STARTER WIRE BRACKET AND THE NO. 1 TIMING BELT COVERRemove two bolts for the starter wire bracket, and four bolts for the cover.
14)REMOVE TIMING BELT GUIDEThis looks like a large washer and it's on the crankshaft right in front of the timing belt. While removing this, note which side goes against the belt (the rounded or convex side).
15)SET NO. 1 CYLINDER AT TDC/COMPRESSIONTemporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt so the crankshaft may be rotated. Turn the crankshaft (always clockwise) until it aligns with the mark behind it, and the two camshaft pulleys align with the marks behind them (on top). If the camshaft pulleys are not aligned, turn the crankshaft one more revolution. Remove the pulley bolt when finished.
16)IF REUSING TIMING BELT, CHECK INSTALLATION MARKS ON TIMING BELTIf you're using this article to get to the water pump, and will re-install the belt, make sure the marks (one at the crank, one on each camshaft pulley, and a mark to indicate the front of the belt) are present. If the marks are gone, be sure to apply new ones before removing the belt.
17)REMOVE TIMING BELT TENSIONERAlternately loosen two bolts, remove them, the tensioner, and a dust boot. This step was omitted. We were replacing the belt, so the old one was just cut off. If you are reusing the belt, remove the top center pulley first to make the belt slack.This entire step can be omitted if you're using the Snap On Tensioner Compressor. The aftermarket tensioner compressor only works if the old belt is removed. Place the tool between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley. Turn the hex portion to spread the tool, which compresses the tensioner. Continue compressing it until the pin supplied with the tool goes through the hole in the tensioner. This pins the tensioner in the retracted position while the timing belt is installed (during assembly).
18)REMOVE THE TIMING BELTIf the belt is still too tight, remove the top center (No. 2) idler pulley. We cut off the belt, so this step was already completed.
NOW YOU'RE READY TO REPLACE THE WATER PUMPMake sure that hole from removing the dipstick tube is covered, we don't want any coolant in there. Remove the thermostat housing, and then the water pump. The pump uses Form In Place Gasket (FIPG) material that may make it difficult to remove, be sure that any prying you do will not damage the gasket surface. Thoroughly clean the engine and thermostat housing surfaces with a razor blade/gasket scraper, then wipe these surfaces, and the new water pump, with an oil free solvent. Apply new Toyota FIPG (or equivalent) material and assemble within 5 minutes. The bead should be 2-3mm (.08-.12") wide, more material is NOT better! Torque the water pump bolts and the thermostat housing nuts to 14 ft. lbs. Take your time cleaning the gasket surfaces and adding new sealant. If it leaks, you will not only have to re-do all this hard work, Toyota also recommends that the timing belt be replaced if any coolant gets on it!
1 )INSPECT TIMING BELTDo not bend, twist, or turn the belt inside out. Do not let it come into contact with any oils or solvents. Visually inspect the belt for any separation, cracked teeth, or other damage/wear. If damage or unusual wear is found, check the belt guide, and the pulleys and gear teeth for nicks or misalignment. Even if replacing the belt, an inspection can also help to identify marginal components.
2 )INSPECT IDLER PULLEYSFor any oil leakage at the seal, and that they rotate freely without any roughness in the bearing.
1 )INSTALL TIMING BELTMake sure all the pulleys are free of oil or water that might contaminate the belt. Note the marks on the belt, one for each cam, and one showing forward (an arrow). Pull the belt tight to simulate the tensioner (after it's released), and check the alignment marks on the two camshaft pulleys and at the top of the crankshaft gear. On this truck, the marks were just a tad bit off of the marks, but it was equal at all three marks (which is somewhat visible in the pictures).
2 )SET TIMING BELT TENSIONERThe tensioner was not removed, because the SnapOn tool was used. If you didn't have the special tool, the tensioner would be off the vehicle and this is where you would compress it in a vise and pin it with a small hex key or Allen wrench.
3 )INSTALL TIMING BELT TENSIONERIf you removed it. Now, once the belt is in place and ready for tension, put the pin out of the tensioner, and double check all the belt alignment marks.
4)CHECK VALVE TIMINGNothing was removed, so the engine timing never changed.
5)INSTALL TIMING BELT GUIDEThe cup side facing outward, smooth side towards the belt.
6)INSTALL NO. 1 TIMING BELT COVER AND STARTER WIRE BRACKETInspect the cover gasket to make sure it is still in usable condition. Torque on the cover bolts is a very slight 80 in. lbs.
7)INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEYThe Toyota FSM shows the crankshaft pulley bolt as a replacement item. We reused it on this truck. It's interesting to note that in the FSM timing belt illustration and text, the torque for the bolt is specified at 217 ft. lbs., but the illustration in the water pump section shows 184 ft. lbs. I found an earlier FSM that has 184 ft. lbs., so my guess is that somewhere between the T-100 model and the Tacoma, the torque was increased. This truck was torqued to 184 and hasn't had any problems.
8)INSTALL THE FAN BRACKETAnd the PS pump adjusting assembly.
9)INSTALL NO. 2 TIMING BELT COVERInspect the cover gasket to make sure it is still in usable condition. Torque on the cover bolts is a very slight 80 in. lbs.
10)INSTALL OIL DIPSTICK AND GUIDEMake sure the o-ring is in place to seal the dipstick tube. Install the alternator adjusting bracket.
1)INSTALL A/C COMPRESSOR BRACKETTorque to 35 ft. lbs. We didn't remove this.
12)TEMPORARILY INSTALL FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND FAN PULLEYSTemporary because it's not torqued yet. We found it better to do the next step before this one.
13)INSTALL NO. 2 FAN SHROUDWhich is the lower piece. We just installed the whole shroud before installing the fan.
14)INSTALL AND ADJUST THE ALTERNATOR BELTIf you have the supercharger, follow the info in disassembly step number 7.
15)TIGHTEN FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND FAN PULLEYTorque to a very slight 65 in. lbs.
16)CONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR TO ENGINEInstall and adjust the belt. Torque to 18 ft. lbs. This was not removed, so it didn't have to be installed, but the belt had to be adjusted.
17)CONNECT PS PUMP TO ENGINEInstall and adjust the belt. Torque to 31 ft. lbs.
18)CONNECT THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
19)FILL ENGINE WITH COOLANT
20)START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS
21)INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER
22)PERFORM ROAD TEST
23)RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL4x4wire.cm
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1. Remove radio 2. Unplug antenna cord (usually on the left of the radio as you are facing the radio) from the back of the radio. 3. Thread antenna cord by gradually pulling it through to where a hole is located down and in front of the driver's side car door(this is where the antenna cord comes down from windshield/window column). 4. Tie about four feet of a strong line or string to the end of the antenna cord plug (this will help when threading in the new antenna cord). 5. Unscrew the two screws holding the antenna assembly near the roof on the windshield/window column. 6. Carefully pull the antenna assembly up from the windshield/window column at the same angle as the column. Do this until the end of the antenna cord, with the string attached to the plug, is visible. 7. Untie the string or cord from the old plug and tie it on to the plug of the new antenna cord. 8. Carefully pull the attached string or cord from the hole located down and in front of the driver's side car door. At the same time make sure the cord is being fed through the hole where the antenna assembly fits. Keep pulling on the new cord until its plug appears at the hole located down and in front of the driver's side car door. Pull the new cord out through the hole eliminating all of the slack in the new cord. 9. Repeat steps 1 through 5, but in reverse order. Added: Excellent advice was given above. I was able to replace the antenna on my '92 Paseo. One word of advice: You may have trouble pulling up the antenna assembly up from the windshield/window column. This is because there are two clips located underneath the steering wheel assembly that are holding the antenna cable in place. I found this by accident when I was following the antenna cable starting from the end ( that plugs into radio) along underneath the steering column.
There are complete pictures for the removal of the door panel so you can access the speakers at www.dynamat.com go to the "gallery" then down to 2000 Toyota Tacoma at the bottom of the page (Company vehicles and projects). I installed Dynamat on the inside doors mostly following these pictures--and the speakers need to come out to do this installation. I recommend the purchase of a special tool (available at Crutchfield for pulling the door panel and avoiding damage). $9.99 S&G Tool Aid 87650 Door Trim and Panel Removal Tool Item #18187650 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5nxyTEUSCJE/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=18187650&g=764&search=panel There are some tricks. (keep chanting, if the guy at Best Buy can do it in 15 minutes... so can I!) 1. Unscrew everything that you can find on the door panel (handles, door opener assembly). Remove the window crank if you have one (see 3). Use the panel removal tool to gently lift all the internal connection pins straight out. (I put a piece of construction paper around the end of it to avoid scratching any paint). There are one or two visible panel pins, the rest are internal. To remove the visible pins without damaging them, release their grip by pushing the center portion all the way in with a pen or pencil. The pin will release. Be careful when you reset the pins they can break! 2. Pull the door opener assembly thru the door panel. It does require some fine manipulation to pull it thru the door panel. 3. If you have window cranks... gently look under the window crank cover using a towel covered screwdriver to pry it up... find the end of the pin (not the hooped top portion) and push it out from one side with another small screwdriver. It will fly out so either cover it on the other end or watch where it lands!) The handle will pop right out then. This was the hardest part of this job... it requires some care and patience. After everything is done and you are replacing it, put the pin back on the removed crank handle and then push it firmly onto its original position. It will click and hold. There is probably a specialized tool for this, but it is seemingly impossible to hook it from the top and pull it out... I tried using a paper clip. Pushing the pin out from the bottom is easiest.
It should be either in or next to the fuse block near the steering column. On the newer models it is incorporated with the hazard flasher module
Chilton or Haynes Auto repair manual, available at your local library. Its pretty straight forward, like most factory installs. If your adding an after market unit, you don't want to use factory speaker wiring. It's the minumin required, to power those cheap, paper speakers, installed at the factory. Same holds true, for the +12 volt pwr, going to the factory radio.
Open the trunk and you'll find the nuts on the wall behind the taillights. Unbolt them, there are about 5 to 7, and use the proper socket or pliers because they're a pain. If you just want to replace the bulb, there are wires leading to the twist-lock sockets. Untwist, pull, and you'll have bulb in hand!
First, you need the proper tools and a clean and dust free place to do this job. You should inspect the timing belt and the water pump as well, since they may also need attention. Replace the timing belt tensioner idler pulley if the bearing is not good. Test this by spinning it by hand. It is not necessary to remove the valve covers to replace the timing belt. For the valve adjustment, you must remove the intake plenum. It is two pieces, the top one is attached to the throttle body. The bottom one is attached to a third intake piece. Get replacement gaskets for these. Leave the throttle cables mounted to the bracket that attaches them to the intake because you don't want to change that adjustment. Once the intake plenum pieces are off, you should clean dirt, grease and oil from the valve covers before you take the covers off. This will prevent dirt from the wire harness and hoses and fuel lines from falling into the valvetrain when the covers are removed. Next remove the covers. Once you have access to the valvetrain, you need to begin measurement of the valve clearances. Intake: (.006-.009"), exhaust: (.011-.014"). Use feeler gauges to measure the clearances between the cam lobe and the valve shim ONLY when the lobe is pointing up. You should write all changes that need to be made for each valve in a small notebook. When you know what size shims you need for each valve that is out of specification, then you must purchase the shims from the dealer. It is easy to remove the shims. You can use a flathead screwdriver to compress the lifter. Next use a smaller flathead screwdriver to take the shim out of the lifter by forcing the screwdriver into the slot on the side of the lifter. Once the smaller screwdriver is under the shim, you can stop compressing the lifter with the larger screwdriver. Next use pair of strong narrow plyers and grab the shim and pull it out of the lifter. Be careful not to scratch the cam lobes. Once a shim is removed, do not crank the engine to align other cam lobes for shim removal since this will damage the cam, and may possibly break the lifter. You must replace the shim before the engine is cranked to align other lobes for shim removal. When the new shims are in place, heck the clearances again. If all are within specifications, then you are just about done. Poured a little new engine oil on all the cam lobes before putting the valve covers back on. Use new O - ring gaskets on the valve covers if the old ones appear cracked or damaged. On the front and back of each head, there is be a semi-circle that the gasket goes over. Put some gasket-forming sealant on the corners where the semi circles begin and end before putting the valve covers back on.
there isn't one if youre looking for the trans dipstick.AnswerThere isn't one. The 2005 Tacoma uses World Standard ATF, which Toyota claims never needs to be serviced. There is procedure to check and fill the transmission but it should probably be left to a trained technician. If your transmission isn't leaking the fluid level should be fine.
Take the VIN (vehicle indentification number)from the chassis of the vehicle to a Toyota Dealer. They should be able to tell you the month and year of Manufacture.
Try the VIN number on the dash board on the left side its a little metal strip with 14 or 17 stamped numbers or letters. the 8th digit denotes the engine code the 10th digit is the year code....P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T - 1996 V = 1997 etc, you can go up or down to find your year accordingly.
open the drivers door and look for a white label. somewhere on it you'll see "mfd-10/03" or whatever month and year your car was built.
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