VW Beetle Type 1

The EPC (Electronic Pedal Control) is the "fly by wire" system that controls the throttle, it took the place of the cable that went from the gas pedal to the throttle body on VW. If this light is on and there is also a P0102, MAF (Mass Air Flow) related code stored in the vehicle's computer, the EPC may be caused indirectly from a faulty MAF. If the EPC is on and there is no other codes stored, it could be a faulty electronic throttle body or need to be re-programmed. The vehicle's computer must recognoze the throttle body so when replacing it with new or used it will need to be programmed at the dealer. Recently I replaced a MAF (a common problem on VW's) on a VW Golf and when I cleared the code the EPC went off as well.

Stock is 1600 cc or 1.6 liter. The bore and stroke are 85.5mm and stroke is 69 mm.

The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle has a 5-speed manual.

1965 to 1979 is the same.

1 - 4 - 3 - 2 (the word "Zundfolge" you found on your engine means "firing order")

That is a case casting number, not used in "what year questions."
Standard procedure is to look at the case serial number prefix. Cases without it or tampered numbers can be narrowed down by country code, oil galley sizes, and subtle construction differences.

The 2012 Volkswagen Beetle has a drag coefficient of 0.37 Cd.

One key difference was the engine. The 66 VW Bug has a 50 horsepower engine and the 67 had a 53 horsepower engine. The late 67 VW Bug suspension had an integral sway bar in the rear.

Most Beetles have automatic chokes, you don't need to do anything special to start the engine.

No....BUT...

You can swap over certain years brakes/rotors from the Karman Ghia over to the Beetles. Or you can buy the "kits" that do the same thing.

If it's a Super that was made for the US market, it came with a 1600cc engine.

It's in three places: in the windshield frame, on the driver's side on the transmission tunnel under the back seat and on a data plate in the trunk. Oh, and it looks nothing like the VIN on a newer car. It looks a lot like this: 118 123 456 The first two digits are the last two digits of the car's "type" number. Your car's "type" is 111--regular old Bug, left-hand drive. If you lived in Australia these two numbers would be 12--regular old Bug, right-hand drive. The third digit is the last digit of the year--1968 in your case. The next numbers are a one-up serial.

The factory jack is inserted into the square metal tube located under the running boards on both sides about a foot ahead of the rear wheels. Using other types of lifts and jacks would require placing them under the front or rear suspensions. Always use care to block wheels and put on the parking brake on level ground when lifting any vehicle, use jackstands when possible.

hi, the manuals recommend 5W40 for the 2003 1.4 model...hope it helps...

That depends on several reasons, first you could have a low engine coolant level, or you could have a leak in the radiator, or maybe something in the engine is not being lubricated properly and is generating more heat than usual. The only way to know for certain is to have a mechanic look at your beetle. And for your second question, cars produce lower amounts of torque when they are heated pass what they are used too. This leads to lower acceleration, or secondly, your car could be equipped with a "engine reduced power system". These systems are put on most modern cars and when the engine overheats, it automatically lowers the amount of power the engine is producing, leading to low accl.

Open the trunk lid. You can see the gas tank, and right above it is a black vertical cover that's held on by at least twenty screws. Take all the screws out and pry this cover off--it's got some kind of a mastic sealing it to keep gas fumes out of the passenger compartment--and you'll see the back of the radio. Now go into the passenger compartment and remove the knobs from the radio; you'll note there are hex nuts holding the radio to the dash. They're not on very tight, and can be removed with needle nose pliers. Take off the two nuts, then go back into the trunk. Unhook all the wiring from the radio and pull it out of the car. And once you've got the radio out, scrape the old mastic off the cover and recaulk it with either butyl caulk (sold mostly as "gutter mastic") or polyurethane caulk (the best brand is Sikaflex Construction Sealant, but PL Premium Polyurethane Door and Window Sealant is also good) to keep the inside of your car from smelling like gas all the time.

In the US it was a 15" by 4", later years went to 4.5".

Passenger side front of tran with 2wires

the generator output varies with engine speed, so the regulator makes sure the battery is always charging at around 14V, or it'd blow up. a 6V battery charges at 7V.

Google/Yahoo.... "Torque Tool Flywheel & Drum Plate Kit". Flywheel nut is held on with 238ft lbs and the axle nut is 253ft lbs. One man job with this tool. It also removes the rear axle nut. It's about $60 but well worth it. You can actually re-torque the nuts back on instead of guessing.

thesamba.com, cip1.com, etc.,,,,

By "fuel screen" do you mean the one in the tank, or the one in the engine compartment?

There are a couple ways to deal with replacing the one in the engine compartment. A lot of guys recommend replacing both the hoses, plus the filter itself, with one long piece of hose running between the metal fuel line and the carb. These cheap filters have caused a lot of engine fires. If you insist on having one, put it at the front of the car, right where the fuel line comes out of the tank.

To replace the one in the tank you start by emptying the tank.

do is 69 or 70 1200cc unless the engine number ends with x then it a replacment case

Find a copy of the book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot", it outlines the entire procedure in clear easy-to-follow steps. It also walks you through nearly every other aspect of VW maintainece and repair.

165R15.

sadly i would think that you would have to search in just about every antique store.....i know one thing for a fact and that i that the car and the bike rack or for that matter spare parts aren't manufactured anymore....but if there is any hope it would be in an antique store or online...aha! i just thought of it you can try searching on amazon, Craig'slist and/or eBay