VW Beetle Type 1

69mm.

Unless someone has done a custom hydraulic clutch setup on this vehicle- there is no clutch fluid. It is a cable clutch linkage on a stock vehicle. If it has been customized there will be a easily identifiable reservoir connected to the clutch pedal or connected to the clutch master cylinder by a hose.

First, this is a job that's easier to do when it's cold outside--so if it's cold outside where you are and your front bearings need replaced, go for it. I'll explain why it's easier in just a second. Start by jacking up the car and removing the wheel. You'll notice a dust cap in the middle of the brake drum. Pry it off--use anything you want, like a crowbar, a big screwdriver or the nail puller end of a claw hammer. If it's the one on the left side (or the right side if the car is right-hand drive), you'll have to remove the clip that holds the speedometer cable in place. HANG ON TO THIS CLIP!!! If you put the car back together without it, your speedometer will quit working. The brake drum is held onto the car with a retaining nut, which is pinched onto the axle with a socket cap screw. Loosen the cap screw (allen wrench--I think 6mm) then remove the nut. The one on the left side of the car is left-hand thread. Grab the brake drum--gloves would be good--and tug it sharply toward you, then push it back in. The inner race comes right out, as well as this big washer that sits between the nut and the bearing. Doing this usually totally wrecks the inner race, but you're replacing it anyway. Remove both of them from the axle, then slip the brake drum off. Finally, slip the inner race of the inner bearing off the axle. Now is the time to inspect your brake shoes and the drum. If you've got ridges or grooves that will catch a fingernail in the drum, or the friction surfaces on your shoes are 1/16" or less thick, this is now a brake job and you need more parts. If they're okay, lay the drum on the ground with the brake side up and look in the hub. You'll notice two slots you can see the bearing through. Use a three-pound sledgehammer and either a dull cold chisel, a big punch or a big screwdriver you don't mind ruining the tip of, and knock the outer race out of the drum. Go back and forth between the two slots. This is where it being cold outside helps: when metal gets cold it contracts, and that slight contraction makes knocking the race out of the drum a lot easier. Next, compare the bearing you bought to the one you just knocked out of the drum. Are the outer races the same? If they are, flip the drum over, set the outer race where it goes, and try to put the inner race in. If it does not go, flip the outer race over. It is thoroughly possible to put these things in upside down and if you do you need to buy another new bearing. When you put this in, set it in place and tap-tap-tap it in--tap in one place, move straight across from it and tap again, move 90 degrees and tap again, go across from that and tap again...just tap, don't hit hard. Now you need to pack the bearings. Volkswagen does things differently here--they put the grease in the hub. not the bearing. What I do here (okay, I'll admit it: I pack the bearing too--it doesn't hurt) is to first apply some grease to the inner race of the inner bearing, and stick the race back in the bearing where it goes. This kinda glues it in. I then pack a whole lot of synthetic grease in the hub. Regular lithium axle grease works too. I put the brake drum back on the axle, being exceedingly careful not to get grease on the inside of the brake drum or the shoes because lubricating brakes makes them not work. A lot of the grease comes out, so I shove as much as I can back in. Finally, I put the inner race of the outer bearing in place, then reinstall the washer and nut. Now it's time to set endplay. The easiest way to do this if you don't have a dial indicator is to try to move the washer around by prying its edge with a screwdriver. If it moves real easy, there's too much play. If it won't move at all, there's not enough. If it just barely moves, you're good. Tighten the cap screw, replace the dust cap, and put the wheel back on.

The 2014 Volkswagen Beetle has a 2.5 L base engine size.

the 8th digit of the V I N number will tell your favorite parts house engine Id.

The VIN is located on the dash, next to the windshield, driver's side. Now as you failed to mention what year it is, it may not have the VIN there if it is very old. If not it is located any number of places. Firewall under the hood, Glove Box, you get the idea, look! Now there is one other very easy way to find out. Look at the title.
chassis number's under the rear seat in the middle, VIN plate is under the bonnet next to the latch.

I had to drill a small hole below the location of the plastic hook that broke off. I sprayed a little wd-40 inside the track and with an awl and plyers i was able to slide the track down and remove the unit. reverse the process to install. Good Luck

A lot of people are wondering the same thing: what year was my engine built? The simple fact is, in most cases we don't know, for a couple of reasons. First, VW liked to use parts in a range of years. Since we're talking engines, Volkswagen made an engine code AH. That engine was made from 1971 to 1974. Second, VW's demand-prediction abilities were sorely lacking. They'd order 22 million of something, build 20 million cars to put it in, and wind up putting it in next year's models. And third, your engine has probably been rebuilt three times by now. Is an engine that was originally built in 1971, and that was rebuilt in 1979, 1986 and 1997 still a 1971 engine? I think not, but maybe that's just me. I can give you year groups for your engine code, and that's as good as you can get without writing Volkswagen. Credit: John Muir's How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive and sources all over the Internet. For Type I Engines:
Engine Codes 1200 to G1500
Years 1950-1965 Engine Codes FI, HI and HO
Years 1966-1967 Engine Codes HI, BI and H50000001
Years 1968-1970 Engine Code AE
Years 1971-1973 Engine Code AH
Years 1971-1974 Engine Code AK
Year 1974 Engine Code AJ
Years 1975 to end of production For Type II Engines:
Type 2 vehicles used the same engine codes as Type 1 vehicles thru 1970. Engine Code CA
Year 1971 Engine Code CB
Year 1972 Engine Codes CB, CD
Year 1973 Engine Code AW
Year 1974 Engine Code ED
Year 1975 Engine Code GD
Years 1976 to end of production Type III vehicles:
Engine codes 1500T-1600
Years 1961-1967 Engine codes V1600-V0510144
Years 1968-1971 Engine codes V1600-V5000001, U5000001
Years 1972-1973 Type 4 vehicles: These were made from 1968 to 1974. There were two engine codes used throughout the period of manufacture: V 1700 and W 1700.

There is a small "stud" that guides your top gear. Make sure this stud is straight UP. Make sure all studs, including the bottom gear, are straight up. Any timing marks to be straight up.

1966

Note that nothing from the New Beetle is compatible with the early Beetle. There are some minor differences in the parts for the early Beetles that would take a book to write about. There already is a great book out about the air cooled Beetles called "How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" by John Muir. It give great insight into this lengthy subject, check it out!

The relay is located in the pass. rear side of the car under the back window, next to the computer. It is a double relay.

under the bumber there are holes on wach side right behind the wheels the bulbes are in those holes

The fuel pump on a stock Type 1 Beetle is located on top of the engine case to the immediate left of the alternator.

California Import Parts, Ltd (Cip1.com) has one for $260.00 new. This also includes the fuel gage, which is mounted in the speedometer assembly. This is assuming that you want one that is "stock". There are a variety of aftermarket speedometers out there if you want a more "custom" look.

On "Type 1" engines (Beetles and pre`72 US-market Buses) it's stamped in the rear of the case, just below the generator/alternator pedestal. "Type 3" (Fastbacks/Squarebacks/Notchbacks) cases have it stamped on the top of the case, alongside the parting line in the center. "Type 4" (411/412 and `72-up Buses in the US) have it both on the engine case and on the cast-aluminum fan shroud (which can be transferred from one engine to another and should therefore not be considered definitive).

There are many replacement cases out there (mostly Type 1 or 3) which have no I.D. number anywhere - their vintage can be determined by the casting numbers on the side of the sump and physical characteristics (things like the number of oil pressure control valves and the diameter of the oil pump studs - head stud diameter is not a reliable indicator since it's not uncommon for them to be replaced and/or steel thread inserts installed where they screw into the case). And "Factory Exchange" cases exist which have had their original serial number milled away and a new one stamped into the resultant cartouche; there were also aftemarket rebuilders who would rivet their own I.D. plate over the original number. On these, the codeletter represents the configuration of the latest incarnation, not necessarily what the case was used for originally.

Grab the trim ring, pull it off, and you'll see a ring that retains the headlight bulb, There are five screws on it--three retaining screws, which hold it on, and two adjuster screws. Remove the retaining screws and the headlight bulb will drop out in your hand. Unplug the old bulb, plug in the new one and put the car back together. Then go to the other side and do it again.

1971 - according to Chilton's Manual VW Air Cooled 1970 - 81 Repair Manual. Charts are on this are located on pages 1-16 to 1-19.

See:http://www.superbeetles.com/history.htm

You need a 13mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, whatever size wrench you need to loosen the accelerator-cable barrel bolt (these vary), a screwdriver, a timing light, some rags, and a sharpened pencil. You also need a gas can and whatever you use to tune the car. Parts: new carb, new carb gasket. Be sure you get a 34mm carb - there are two sizes used on VWs, and the 31mm throat won't fit on your car. While you're at it, go ahead and change the oil, check the belt for tension and wear, etc.

Step 1: unhook the battery. Put the car in gear, set the brakes, chock the wheels and do whatever else it takes to keep the car from moving. Remove the air cleaner.

Step 2: There is a wire coming from the negative side of the coil to two points on the carb. Unhook both.

Step 3: Loosen the hose clamp on the fuel hose and slide it out of the way. Hold the hose in one hand while it's still hooked up and the pencil in the other, point facing the carb. Pull the hose off the carb and IMMEDIATELY, as fast as you possibly can, jam the pointy end of the pencil in the hose to stop the gas from coming out. Loosen the barrel bolt and remove the accelerator cable.

Step 4: Remove both the 13mm nuts holding the carb on, lift it off, drain it into the gas can, and put the new carb and its gasket where the old one was. Bolt the new one in place.

Step 5: hook everything back up. Adjust the valves, then start the car and tune it up.

Right in front of the left front tire.

Look at the rating of any oil you might consider using. If it's rated for American Petroleum Institute service CJ-4, it will be fine.

Dist. Points gap is .016" (0.4mm)

Mine weighs 3600 lbs. on the scales at the drag strip. SBC, auto, no air. GVW rating is 4800 lbs. for licensing and taxes.

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . If you did NOT take the brake lines off or take apart the slave cylinders then you don't have to bleed the brakes. You really should bleed them any way if its been a few years as brake fluid will absorb moisture over the years and can rust the metal lines from the inside and clog the passages. You will be surprised how much GUNK comes out. Just don't let the Reservoir run dry when doing it. You have to bleed them on ANY vehicle if you open the lines for any reason. That also means if your reservoir went dry too. Air compress's, Fluid doesn't. Bleed the farthest one away from the master cylinder and work your way to the shortest. Rear wheels first then the front.