VW Beetle Type 1

traction control light

It doesn't need coolant. It's aircooled if you didn't already know that.

Unless your a Mechanic ( which you probably arent since your asking this question ) then take it and have it done at a shop

You will need a 21 mm wrench or socket and a large screwdriver. You will notice two slots on the inner half of the pulley located 180 degrees apart. Insert the screwdriver into the slot to hold the pulley while undoing the 21 mm nut. There are shims located between the pulley halves used to adjust the gap between them which adjusts the belt tension. More shims loosens the belt tension and less shims tightens it up.

You should get Muirs book and or the Bentley manual as they have a HUGE amount of info. They have a two piece pulley system. Put a medium size straight screw driver in the slot of the inner Generator pulley and then it will hold the pulley from moving when you take off the nut. Keep track of the "shims". Put "shims" between the two pulleys or between the nut and outer pulley to tighten or loosen the belt. Once you get it right put the remaining "shims" between the outer pulley and the nut and then torque it down.

Set your valve lash to 0.006". You actually need two feeler gauges to do this--a .006 "go" gauge and a .008 "no go" gauge. When the .006 goes in and the .008 won't, you've got it.

They used to say set the exhaust valves to .004. You tend to break valves at that clearance.

The ground clearance of the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle is 0 ft. 5.7 in. (5.7 in.).

3800 series 2 3.8 liter 231 cubic inches

If you look on the hump in the middle of the car near the back seat. it should be right behind the hole where transmission leaver and the gear shifter connect.

Because the carb is flooding - starting fluid (ether) dries up the piston and lets it fire - too much ether can damage your piston because it can strip it right dry

Look on the sticker under the hood it shows pics.

You'll have to look in John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" for pre-1970 cars, but 1970s and above have a serial number that looks like this: 134 2215475 The first digit is the "type"--type 1 is the Beetle, Super Beetle, Beetle Convertible, Karmann Ghia and Thing, type 2 the Transporter, type 3 Squarebacks and Fastbacks, and type 4 is...well, the type 4. If you have one, you know it. The second digit is the specific car you have. In type 1, 1 was the Deluxe Beetle, 3 is the Super, and you'll have to fill me in on KGs, convertibles and Things. The third digit is the last digit in the model year. The last number is a one-up serial. If you are looking for a super simple solution just to get information and not figure it out go to www.decodethis.com (this website decodes vin numbers for free, except for the VINs on aircooled Volkswagens--I just tried it with the VIN on my own car, and it rejected it.).

The Fusebox is located on the side of the Dash panel where the Dash Panel meets the Driver's door. It is behind a rectangular shaped plastic Door.

It's on the passenger side of the transmission.

Google/Yahoo---fuel gauge for 1973 Beetle. It will probably just be the "vibrator" part. Make sure you checked for loose wires and power to the tank.

There is no difference. The term "bug" is just a nickname created in the U.S. for the beetle (or superbeetle).

That is a pressure controlled brake light switch, when you step on the brake pedal and develop pressure in the brake fluid the brake lights are switched on.

Classic Beetles weigh around 2100 lbs give or take a few.

Oil is a preference,but I have used,with great success,both on the street and racing,Castrol GTX. I live in the south where the climate is pretty hot so I use 20W50,10W30 works just fine elsewhere.

I believe the right lever by the shifter controls the heat.

Make sure the tubes coming from the "doghouse" are there and not crushed. Make sure they go under also. Make sure the heater cables aren't broken. Look at the heater boxes and make sure the cables are moving the levers all the way. If the previous owner put J-tubes on you can't get heat now. They replace the heater boxes.

Jack up the car. Remove the entire strut assembly - spring and shock cartridge - on both sides. Buy new shock cartridges. Take the strut assemblies and the new cartridges to a Midas Muffler shop or somewhere that's got a spring compressing machine. They'll change the cartridges for you safely, and cheaper than buying the tool you need to do this. Then go home and reinstall the strut assemblies.

The car has only one transaxle, AKA transmission, then no, you cannot remove the tranny without removing the tranny.

If you mean without removing CV Axle or drive axle or Axle shaft or CV shaft (same thing) then the answer is still no. You cannot remove the transaxle without removing the drive axle/CV shaft.

220 lb-ft, plus however much more torque it takes to align one of the castellations in the nut with the cotter pin hole in the axle. If that pin is not in place, your back wheel will fall off.

Did you bleed the entire brake system? First must bleed the rear right, the rear left, then front right and then front left. Don't ask me why but it is what it is. I have a 74 VW Bug

Some of the very early Type I and Type II engines were pretty much the same, that similarity ended in the 1960's. Most type II engines have a fan setup quite different from the Type I vertical fan housing. This means that stripped down, the blocks looked the same, but all of the cooling metal carburators, manifolds etc., were different. Most of the later type II engines were also bigger than the Type I engines, as they were in bigger heavier vehicles. Some parts will interchange, others can with modifications. Giving specific answers to a particular situation would require that I know what specific Type I and Type II year(s) you were interested in. For example the Type II got the 40 HP engine ~ 1958 or so, the Type I did not get that engine until 1961, then they were the same for another couple of years, then the Type II got a bigger engine.