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VW Super Beetle
The Super Beetle was a VW Type 1 variant manufactured by Volkswagen in 1971. This revolutionized Beetle model featured a redesigned front end, larger front brakes and a MacPherson strut suspension mechanism.
694 Questions
What would cause the high beams not to work on a 1992 Nissan Maxima?
Bulbs Multifunction switch - The headlight switch on these go bad they run about $100 but are not to bad to replace. I would think that that is the most likely problem.
Fuse usually in the power distribution block under hood
1971 VW beetle not getting spark?
It could be a few things.
The first thing I do is turn the car on and look at the two idiot lights in the speedometer. If they didn't both come on, your problem is somewhere between the battery and the coil. The electricity to power the coil, which is where your spark comes from, comes out of the battery, goes through a 40-year-old piece of wire, a 40-year-old switch, a 40-year-old fusebox with possibly a 40-year-old fuse in it, then through ANOTHER 40-year-old wire (which is running past the transmission so it gets nice and hot all the time, which damages wire) through the firewall to the coil. There are LOTS of points of failure there!
If you have voltage at the coil, there are not many things it could be:
The condenser could be fried.
The rotor could be dirty.
The coil could be bad.
The points could be misadjusted.
The wire from the coil to the distributor could be bad.
Or, best of all, the distributor could be loose and popped out so it's not making contact with the distributor drive.
How early was vw super beetle made?
Hardtop Super Beetles were made between 1971 and 1975. For the 1976 to 1979 model years, the Beetle convertibles were based on the Super.
Why is 1972 beetle blowing fuses when key is turned on?
A 1972 Volkswagen Beetle blowing fuses when the key is turned on could indicate a short circuit in the electrical system. Common culprits include damaged wiring, faulty ignition switch, or malfunctioning components such as the starter or accessories. Inspecting the wiring harness for frayed or exposed wires and testing individual components can help identify the source of the problem. It's important to address the issue promptly to prevent further damage to the electrical system.
What is difference between 73 beetle and 74 super?
The windshield on the super beetle (and all super beetles) is rounded and makes a little dash board. The regular beetles windshield is flat and has no dash.
Irgleloid
Not true '71 and '72 Super beetles still have flat windshields, the curved windshield on a super beetle started in 1973 and also had non flat bigger plastic dashboard.
How do you set the timing on a 1973 Volkswagen super beetle?
You first have to set the valves, check the spark plug gap on all four cylinders (0.028"), and set the points. Use a dwell meter to do this; the "official VW specification" is 50 degrees of dwell plus/minus 2 degrees. Once you've done this, start the car and drive it five miles.
Timing at idle is officially 5 degrees after TDC. Hook up your timing light. If you have an original crank pulley, there's a notch in it. Put a little white paint on that notch. Start the engine, loosen the distributor clamp a little, aim the timing light at the pulley, pull the trigger, and rotate the distributor until the notch is aligned with the seam between the two case halves. Then tighten the distributor and adjust idle to 1500 rpm.
What do you do when the automatic seat bealt is stuck and will not move on a Mazda mx3 1993?
Mazda has a recall on their seatbelts for some models for this reason. ask a Mazda dealer if your model has the seatbelt recall. I believe the 92 mx3 has a recall for the auto seatbelts, but i am not sure about 93. Look into it though and they might fix it for free!
sounds like you have a short in the low and hgh beam switch take it to auto electrician
YES. The car is almost 50 years old so some steps are involved.
At the very least drain and replace the oil in the motor and try to siphon out the old gas and add fresh. (and the transmission if you have time.)
Also keep an eye on the gas lines as the bends have rubberized cloth hoses and they can rot and split and spray gas all over. They are great when new but don't have a long life. Some times even the metal gas lines can rust and seep gas so you'll have to keep your eye out when you first get it started. Check all the bands holding the fuel lines to the metal lines and such to make sure the fittings haven't shrunk and the bands have loosened.
Absolutely check the brake fluid and brake lines incase the rubber parts of the hose's have rotted and have holes in them. The rubber parts can swell -inside- and may keep the brakes from releasing and/or may not even pass any fluid to the brakes at all.
Things to replace as soon as possible:
-ALL rubber gas lines with new german oem rubber gas lines.
-Fuel strainer (filter) in tank.
-All rubber brake line parts.
How do you wire a voltage regulator on a 72 VW Beetle?
What wires go were on vw 72 voltage regulator . I took my old one off and now it will not start.It did start before I did this .Can you e mail a simple diagram.all I see is probally 2 big hots 1 ground and 1 back to the generator light.
Thanks carlyle101@hotmail.com
How can you lower the front of your 1970 Volkswagen beetle?
If it's NOT a Super Beetle (struts) then just search for - lowered front end for Beetle - and you should get alot of hits for parts and info on exactly how. Depends on how much you want to spend and and "how low ya wanna go". Don't forget to tell them what Wheels and Tires you want or have as there is only so much room under the fenders unless you want to buy wider fenders. www2.cip1.com Toplineparts.com (for Super Beetles) mamotorworks.com/acvw and a lot more...
Wanted to add: Super Beetles can be lowered also, suggest using lowering struts and springs although it is possible to modify the original struts if you are a good welder/fabricator. There are numerous narrowed beam type setups for using wider wheels and tires and give room for turning the tires when the car is lowered. There are adjusters which can be welded into the original beams that is the easiest way, again requires a good welder fabricator. There are also lowering spindles which will add disc brakes at the same time, be aware that they can widen the front track a little. A combination of a narrowed beam with adjusters and lowering spindles seems to be the popular setup.
1973 super beetle light for heater lever illumination?
Get the Robert Bentley service manual to show you how to remove it. I got mine form Lowes or Ace or one of the chains like that.
I am sorry but I HAVE a hardback of Bentleys manual and no where within it does it cover anything about the light other than in the wiring diagram, where it says it is on track 56 ( whatever THAT means cos they do not tell you that either) and they call it "Light for lever illumination". No section on it anywhere nor what type of bulb or how to replace it. really sucks!
What does a 73 super beetle have an alternator or generator?
I believe the early '73s had Generators and the late '73s had Alternators. It depends on what the previous owners put on? (It may have been the '74s tho.) A lot of people put alternators on for a few more amps.
The generators are barrel looking, kinda like a coffee can and the Alternators have a lip or flange all the way around on the rear near the pulley.
How do i lower the rear suspension on a 1967 vw beetle?
hey mate.. you need to drop one spline on the rear torsions,, i am doing the job on my brothers 67 sortly.. we have just fitted drop spindles in the front and the tyres rubbed the guards..so we fitted a 65 profile tyres,,had 80 profile,, now it is sweet and low at the front,, so we have to drop the rear to get it looking good all round,,
i will let you know how things go
cheers
t.j.
Just lifted mine last week, so this is pretty fresh in my mind. Also I now know all the things that they don't tell you in the manual!! Once you know this stuff, it is pretty easy...............oh, this was done on a swing axle car - I would guess that this is everything pre Super Beetle? Oh, sorry if it's a bit dumbed down, but I would like to think this could be done by anyone who has the time and inclination!
- Equipment required.
- Method.
1. Equipment required:
- Trolley jack,
- Strong arm bar,
- Ratchet
- 15mm, 17mm and 19mm spanners and sockets,
- x2 10mm spanners,
- Axle stand,
- Wheel chocks,
- Assortment of levering tools (I used some old tyre levers, chisels and jemi bars),
- Brass or copper dolly (or wood if you are desperate {a dolly is a tool that is used as an intermedetary between a hammer and the thing you are hitting - to stop you from damaging the part you are attacking})
- An internet.
- A protractor (yes an old school plastic one will do).
2. Method:
- Decide how much lift/drop you want and then look at www.bugbabe.co.UK to work out how to rotate the torsion bars.
- Chock a front wheel - hey you don't want it rolling off from you - oh and putting the handbrake on is a good idea!
- Pull back the gator (rubber shroud) from around the hand brake lever, slacken the 10mm nuts (M6) as far as you can, a then pull the retaining plate off the small tit on the lever mechanisim (if you don't do this, you won't be able to pull the axle out of the way in four steps time) .
- Jack the car up and remove a rear wheel, and place on axle stand (put the stand under the subframe (the chassis bit your side of the engine/trans).
- Remove the 3 bolts that attach the spring plate (the long thin pivot arm) to the axle casing, you will then be able to remove the bottom bump stop (the rubber cone thing).
- Remove the long bolt at the base of the shocker.
- Pull the axle backwards out of the spring plate.
- Now for the H&S bit: YOUR SUSPENSION IS STILL SUBJECT TO TORSIONIAL (twisty or to be more precise rotational, or angular) PRESSURE, THE SPRING PLATE WANTS TO SPRING DOWN. DON'T PUT SOFT BODY PARTS BETWEEN IT AND THE GROUND!!
- At the inboard end of the spring plate, remove the four bolts that hold the bush housing, then remove the housing and the rubber bush.
- You will now see that the only thing stopping the spring plate from coming down (remember, with force, and quickly) is a small lip on the chassis. Use your levering devices (jemi's etc) to prise the plate over the lip. When you manage, there will be a bit of a bang as the torsion bar comes to a relaxed state, but don't worry, as long as your legs wern't under it, it's okay!!
- Now for the first thing they don't tell you........
- Measure the angle between the subframe and the spring plate. I think (though only guessing) that standard is about 70 degrees. For some reason the manuals give you the angle from desired horozontal, which I found of no use! My car was lowered at the back, and when the spring plates were in their relaxed state, measured abot 60 degrees, one turn on the outbord side gave me an extra 10 degrees.
- IMPORTANT: If you are only going to turn the spline position at the outboard end, you do NOT want to dissengage the shafts at the inboard end. This is the second thing they don't tell you! Oh and no, marking the position of the arms is not important, only jotting down the angle!
- Lever the spring plate, no more than 1/2" at a time, then, with the dolly, knock the shaft back home to ensure it does not come out of the splines at the inboard end. If you are moving the bar at both ends, ignore this bit, you just need to move everything 'till you get the desired angle.
- Right, you have now got your desired lift/drop. Lets box it all up!
- This is the 3rd thing they don't tell you in the books....
- Whilst the suspension is still relaxed, replace the rubber bushes and end caps (do not tighten fully yet, but this is by far the easiest time to replace them - trust me - if you try to do it when you have the spring plate jacked, the shaft ends up off center and the end cap becomes a sod to re-fit)
- Jack up the spring plate as high as you can, and push the axle back in to place.
- Fanny on with the jack, to enable you to replace all of the bolts for it and the shocker.
- Jack the car up under the hub, so that the suspension is compressed, and the spring plate is above the stop on the subframe.
- Tighten the bolts on the end plate - the manual does specify a torque for this, but, if you don't have a torque wrench, here's another tip - engineers tend to be fairly clever chaps. a 15mm spanner is the length it is for a reason! The average human force on the end of it will give the normally ideal torque for that size nut/bolt, without stretcing the threads too much. I tend to tighten 'till I find the "nipping point", then tap the spanner with my palm, or a small hammer a further 20-30 degrees. That's just what I do, read the book for the correct settings!
- Put the wheels back on, re-connect the handbrake, take out the stands and chocks, and man, you are soooooo good to go......
How do you change the starter on a 1974 Super Beetle?
With jackstands and wrenches.
1. Unhook the battery.
2. Open the hood, reach behind the engine on the right-hand side and find the 17mm nut. Remove this. That holds the top bolt in place.
3. Crawl under and remove the bendix wire, the starter wire, and the bottom bolt.
4. Use both hands to pull the starter back, then out of the car.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
A word of caution - please!
1. I removed my starter exactly as answered. My replacement starter came with a small brass bushing attached and instructions that stated "I must relplace the old bushing with this new one"
2. Upon more research I found some "yes you have to's" and some "not always"
3. I decided upon prudence and removed the old bushing. This is done by getting a tap of the right size (forgot size at the moment) and tapping out the hole, which makes the old bushing ride up the tap.
4. I was proud since I was almost done, I thought.
5. Instructions indicated that the new bushing needs to be tapped into the now empty hole. Tap-tap-tap...it would not go in now matter how I tried. Compared sizes and discover the old and new bushings were identical.
6. Tip number 1: if the old bushing is identical in size and it's in good shape, don't try to replace it.
7. I continued to fiddle with the bushing when it slipped out my slightly greasy hands and fell. Where did it fall? Well, there is an opening in the flywheel bell housing directly beneath the bushing hole. This opening is very small and the bell housing is very deep and dark and greasy.
8. My heart sank. I tried everything to retrieve the new bushing -- no success. Being brass, no magnet I had would server as bait, and gum and other sticky globs failed to find and grab the missing bushing.
9. I was afraid to just leave it in there so I called around and my best and favorite mechanic finally gave me the bad news. "Gotta drop the engine so we can take the housing apart to remove the bushing."
10. So there. I hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. In hindsight, it would have been trivial to cover the offending opening before beginning the bushing operation. That's what I'll do if I ever have to replace a starter again.
What is the proper direction of installation of the thermosat for a 1992 240SX?
Spring and "bulb" assembly go TOWARD the engine block.
How can you lower your 69 vw bug?
Thats fairly easy actually. You can replace the front spindles with dropped spindles. New dropped spindles are around $89 to $100 a set.
Most offer a 2.5 inch drop in the front which is typically enough to give a bug a nice raked stance. The rear however takes a little more work. I won't sit and explain exactly how to do it but, I'll post a link for you to follow.
http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_suspend.htm
Great info on how to do it.
Hope it helps.
