Chevrolet

Recomend picking up a Hayes auto repair manual and read over a few times before atempting this, and take your time

youare going to love this. It took a while the 1st time I worked on one to find out this trick !st run to warm up 3 to 5 min. idling with it on ramps crawl under neath and find little plug located right above the transmission oil pan on the right front corner. (ear engine oil drain plug) Reamove little plug from trans. if in drips out it is good, if not add some in small amounts. If pours out make sure vehicle is level and drain until correct.

4.0 in jeeps 4.2 in gm

Take the fuel line off of the engine and see if fuel comes out when you try to start the vehicle to see if it is working. If you need to see if it is pushing out the right perssure then you will have to take it to a shop and have it tested. If you have a fuel line pressure guage then make sure it is pushing out 5-6 psi. If not then replace the pump.

It depends where you live and if you have had the cylinder heads redone. If nothing has been done to the heads you will need to get a lead additive because today there's only unleaded gasoline. Up until the late 70's early 80's lead was used in gasoline and lead is what lubricates the valve stem sleeves (if you live in California you're s.o.l.). If you've had the heads re-sleeved then you can run gasoline with an octane of 87 to 94. I would recommend using higher rated octane due to the fact that the 283 has a 9.25:1 compression ratio. I have a 283 that's been overhauled and I use try to use 89 or higher. Anything lower than 89 may cause knocking. In conclusion I would use 89 for driving around town, 91 for long trips, and 91 or higher for racing. And if you find a place that sells 94, it'll cost an arm and a leg.

4:11 gear ratio

Pull the tank. It is easy enough.

I would say to pull the tank. It isn't too tough on that car. You can remove the fuel line, and crank it over forever, depending on how much fuel is in it, but, that could take forever. The only other option would be to siphon it out, by sucking on a hose, which, I have done many Saturday nights ago, but, I do not advise. There are just two boltsd holding it up in there, after you remove the filler neck. Drop it down, and dump it out, in a proper area. Then, you can clean it out, at the same time. Always a good idea.

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It is easier and more cost effective to buy remanufactured calipers than to try and fix your old worn out ones. Cost would depend on the application.

They are screewed into the exhaust system / pipes. There about 4 inches long and have a electrical wire in the end of them.

The odometer light fuse also controls other lights on your instrument panel. The odometer light can be removed by removing the instrument panel cover. Push the light bulb in and turn at the same time. The light bulb will come out. Replace it with a new light bulb.

You should change your oil because oil is the life blood of your engine. In engines, there is inevitably some exposure of the oil to products of internal combustion, and microscopic coke particles from black soot accumulate in the oil during operation. Also the rubbing of metal engine parts inevitably produces some microscopic metallic particles from the wearing of the surfaces. Such particles could circulate in the oil and grind against the part surfaces causing wear. The oil filter removes many of the particles and sludge, but eventually the oil filter can become clogged, if used for extremely long periods. The motor oil and especially the additives also undergo thermal and mechanical degradation. For these reasons, the oil and the oil filter need to be periodically replaced. Not at 3,000 miles as the Quick change industry would have you believe, but at the interval listed in your owner's manual. Every 5,000 miles is a good interval on modern engines using the correct weight premium oil and a quality filter. Read and follow the maintenance schedule listed in your owner's manual and you cannot go wrong.

The legendary 1969 ZL1 427 big block Chevy had a bore/stroke of 4.25" x 3.76" , while the newer LS7 small block has a bore/stroke of 4.125" x 4" , both of which feature aluminum heads and block .

5

Use a 5/8 deep socket. The pulley should fall down when loosened enough.

You don't replace the light, you replace the whole instrument panel cluster ( about $500.00 at the dealership) If the indicator has gone dark, you can find people on the internet who can repair that for far cheaper, but you will still have to send them the cluster. Google instrument panel repair, you will find them that way

Take care of all 4 problems with 2003-2006 clusters and have it rebuilt. Other failures include erratic gauges,total power loss,dim or dead back lighting and bad solder joints. Try gmgaugerepair.com for a 110 complete rebuild.

The bolt pattern for the Chevy Equinox is 5-115.

The battery is located in the trunk under the furthest location. I just had mine replaced

Regular 87-89 octane.

3/10 US fluid ounce = 8.9 cc

the headlights and the tail lights will not turn on when i press the switch, also the dash will not light up like it it suppost to. i checked everything except the wiring. what is the best place to find headlight specific wiring diagrams?

Before removing the belt either draw the belt's path or note the sticker showing the belt's path. Put the correct size socket on the center bolt of the idler tension pulley - pull the tensioner pulley up to loosen the belt - slip the belt off. Install in reverse order. The spring in the tensioner pulley is pretty stout, you might need someone to help you slip the belt back on.

no oxidization

I believe it is 8x6.5" = 8x170mm