Buick Century

For Security so as nobody can jump in uninvited while you are getting yourself comfortable. Try pushing the button 2 or 3 times to unlock all doors.

Need to check all fuse

i have a 1996 buick century just came back from mechanic head gasket is gone and there is anti freeze in my oil i guess if you had water in your rad then you would have water in your oil.

There are several reasons that can cause your 1995 Buick Century to quit running. The most common reason is a lack of fuel. A bad fuel pump can cause the engine to quit running.

17 gallons

The horn on the 2001 Century is on the drivers side. It is on the frame rail just under the inner fender.

Trouble code P1860 means: TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit

Neither one of these. Your car requires SAE 5w30 weight oil.

Yes

The radiator tends to clog up after many years of operation. This causes poor coolant circulation and over heating of the engine. Flushing the radiator will clean this out and restore its cooling capability. Doing it yourself is a messy job but it can be done. You need to collect the old antifreeze also as it is toxic. Buy a radiator flush solvent and just follow the instructions on the container.

Hope this is helpful

Follow the top radiator hose back to the engine. The thermostat is behind the housing that connects the top hose to the engine block.

1) Check you're owners manual for fuse locations!

2)A new starter does not turn engine???

- Check fuel

- Check for spark

- Check battery 1) Check you're owners manual for fuse locations!

2)A new starter does not turn engine???

- Check fuel

- Check for spark

- Check battery

Follow the larger line from the air compressor - try by the drier at the passenger side firewall

more details:This one took me 30 mins to find, its at the back of the engine at the center of the firewall (below the windshield ) . This is where the a/c lines go into the car ( evaporator) its hard to see if your tall . Remove the cap and attach your gauge . Good luck.

Been there it's def. the seal on the bottom of the windshield it fell off and it still laying there under the vent for your windshield wipers re-silcone it change the in cabin air filter right there because it got wet and your done happens to impalas too as well as my 99century

The thermostat is mounted under the throttle body behind the water outlet to the upper radiator hose. Find your upper hose on the drivers side front and follow it down below the throttle body to the end of the hose. That is the thermostat housing.It is very helpful to remove the throttle body first, then removing the upper water outlet bolt completely, only remove the lower bolt 85% of the way. The bottom hole is slotted. Remove the water outlet and the old tstat and sealing gasket. Install the new tstat which should come with a new seal. Slip the outlet down onto the still installed lower bolt, and then install the upper bolt Tighten the lower bolt. Reinstall the throttle body. There is a special fill procedure to follow for this engines cooling system. Open the bleeder screw on the water outlet by the thermostat, and above the water pump. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of Dexcool and water. Add the mix until only the coolant and water mix comes out of the bleeders and not air. Close the bleeders and then start the engine.

Answer from a 1999 Buick Century owner: Having just done this to my 99, it's complicated. 1st, make sure you have your new thermostat, coolant, and a throttle body gasket. Yes you have to remove the throttle body, and replace the gasket. Also, a wide, short standard screwdriver, socket set with 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 1/2 sockets, and a 1/2" crescent wrench with the round end. I'll explain later. Next thing you need to do is unhook your negative battery cable, this will ensure the fan wont kick on while your fingers are in it, and jack up the car a few inches for a drain pan. Then you need to drain the radiator. To do that, open the radiator cap near the battery and grab a wide standard screwdriver, I used a 4" stubby. The drain plug is at the bottom corner of the radiator on the drivers side. You can see it from the top. I removed the chin spoiler to make it easier to access the plug. Insert the screwdriver and turn the plug 1/4 counterclockwise, and pull/pry off. Should come off easily. While that spills everywhere, head up top and begin by removing the sensors. There are 5 of them, they are color coded, write it down. They kinda fall back into place easily, and remove the intake hose from the filter box and the throttle body. Easy stuff is done, now you have to remove the throttle body. There are 2 bolts to remove, the 1st in top front, under the black bar holding the throttle cables. The 2nd is lower rear and has 2 nuts, the 1st nut unhooks the coolant line (The black pipe with the 2 rubber hoses leading into the t-body.) The 2nd is a pain to get too. You need a deep well socket and a small prybar. Use some ingenuity with the prybar and you'll get it off. Then, remove the 2 hoses from the coolant line. Not easy. The t-body "should" come right off. With that out of the way you can now see the therm housing. It also has 2 bolts, similar locations. The top is easy to remove, the bottom isn't. It;s wedged between the block and the exhaust with minimal clearance. The only way I could get it off was to use a 1/2" crescent wrench, with the round end, and use the round end to ever so slowly, loosen the nut. You're stuck under the fuel lines, and other junk so be patient. When you get that off, the therm comes right out, replace and work backwards. Good luck, it took me over 4hrs.

Above instructions are right on and saved me a ton of time and work....thanks to the poster. The only added comment is on the lower T-stat bolt, I was able to use a short (4") 1/2" box end wrench to remove the bolt. You have to be patient and be willing to contort your hands to reach the bolts, but it is rewarding to complete and save some labor charge since the T-stat itself is about $7. Good luck.

If you maintained an average speed of 65 mph, the time to drive 227 miles would be about 3 hours and 29 minutes. You would have to add time for stops, detours and other delays.

ALL harmonic balancers for ALL American car engines (and all other vehicle engines that I know of) are in the same place. They're integral to the front engine pulley that drives the serpentine belt or fan-belt, whichever your engine has. Yours has a serpentine belt. Some shops call it the "harmonic balancer", others call it the "harmonic balancer pulley", still others just call it the "front pulley". It's the same thing.

It is between the fan and the firewall. The two wires plug into the side of the fan. Two screws against the firewall do not have to come out, just loosen. Easiest with a quarterinch drive flex extension. It is located between the blower motor and firewall, right against the firewall. Three screws hold it up to the bottom of the housing. The back two only have to be loosened as they are very difficult to get to. Follow the two wires from the fan and that is it. It's a tight fit.

According the the Chilton's manual for this car the "power window regulator" cannot be serviced separately and "If defective, replace the regulator and motor as an assembly." But if the motors is still working, maybe someone will know how help you get the cable back into place.

Replace control unit located under dash usually in the middle section

Use a set of pliers to pull the cable even if the plastic latch is broken...

Purchase a recharge kit from your local auto parts store. It will come with instructions. Keep in mind if the system is low or empty, it will probably leak out again after you recharge.

It requires a special tool that can be purchased at a parts house. Be sure to release the fuel pressure first.