Buick Regal

Buick Regals don't have timing belts. They have a timing chain.

check the fuses. These are usually located somewhere under the dash, Check

your owners' manual if you cannot find them. I am assuming that all dash lights

went out at the same time, so it is not likely that the bulbs all went bad. Many

cars have have a rheostat that let s you dim or brighten all the dash lights -this

may have gone bad. Finally there may be a short or bad connection in the line from the battery that lights the dash. To find this is not easy and will likely require expert help.

You may want to do what I did for my 1976 Plymouth and tape a little flashlight to

the steering column to light the dash.

what does the body control model do for a 95 buick real 3.8 litter

A full cup of water or less can hurt any car's engine. While some very small amounts of water may find its way into fuel tanks naturally, any more water than this will cause a car serious problems. Should water get into a fuel tank, it is important to get it out again so the car's engine will operate properly.

There will be no permanent engine damage. The engine will simply not run.

I will ask you a question. Do you have a timing light? If so, you are going to clean off the degree plate located on the timing cover, and take a piece of chalk and and write over the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. This is so the mark will show up better from the strobe light. Then you will want to unplug the vacuum advance on the distributor, and plug the hose with screw or something else that will make a tight fit. Next you will hook up the timing light- most now are inductive, with the clip being attached to the #1 plug wire, and of course the other lead goes to the battery. Make sure that everything is clear from the fan and other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine, and point the light down by the harmonic balancer and degree plate. Your car should have a specs sticker located either on top of the radiator, or attached to the bottom of the hood. It will tell you at what degree the timing is to be set at, as well as what the idle rpm should be while performing this operation. If the timing is off, you then shut the engine off. Then you will get a 9/16 distributor wrench (this is the easiest)if not then you may be able to reach the distributor hold down bolt with either a combination wrench or ratchet and socket, loosen the bolt for the hold down clamp, but do not remove this bolt. You then start the engine back up, and while holding the timing light at the mark, rotate the distributor until the timing mark is ehre it is supposed to be on the degree plate (about 6 degrees BTDC) Go back and stop the engine. Tighten down the distributor hold down clamp bolt. Start the engine back up and re-check the timing. If it all looks good, satop the engine once more, disconnect the light, unplug the vacuum advance line, and plug it back into the distributor.

if it's anything like a 92 skylark you have to get the window down far enough (if the motor is dead you can usually turn it manually) to get to the two bolts that hold the window on. Remove the bolts and push the window up. It may have to be held there with some strong tape. if you see bolts holding the motor in then great! remove the motor and the actuator in one piece. If there are rivets then you need to drill out these rivets with a drill not much bigger than the inside part of the rivet.( don't worry the new motor will come with bolts). very carefully switch out the motors on the actuator making sure to have it in the same position. Also, the motor might be riveted to the actuator so the same thing applies to this as well.then replace the motor and actuator then reattach window. on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the hardest i would rate this a six.

If it is the same as a 93 (it just has a carpeted part over the light) then all you have to do is pry the cover off (there are little ribbed plastic bolts that keep it in place) and you should be able to access the bulbs from there. When you're ready to put the cover back on just line up the holes, press down and you're good to go.

The firing order for a 1995 Buick Regal with a 3.8L V6 engine is 1-6-5-4-3-2. This sequence ensures the proper timing of the ignition and helps maintain engine balance. The cylinder numbering starts with the front of the engine, with cylinder 1 on the driver's side.

The M.A.S. is in the top of the metal tube between the air filter box and the intake manifold. It will have a wire connected to it and it is held in by 2 screws. This is an easy replacement and should take no more than 5 to 10 minutes, assuming you are taking your time. I changed mine in about 3 minutes.

17.5

Remove hose from pump with a 16mm crowfoot wrench and extension. There is a plastic bracket about midway through the hose, that must be cut from under the car (it's almost in dead center of the hose, in the rubber part, you may have to remove the two 10mm screws holding on the heat shield.)

The fitting on the rack (steering column) is the hardest to get to. I used a 18mm crowfoot wrench on a 6'' wobble extension, then a universal joint, followed by another extension, slid down from the top at an angle from the left side next to the firewall, down under the brake booster to get to the fitting. I would also suggest a few wraps of teflon tape on the new fittings, because you damn sure don't want it to leak.

Do not work near unnecessary tools, or your dog, you will throw the former and kick the latter. Remove small children because you will curse as well. Good luck.

I have a 93 and the signal relay is on the passenger side beneath the glove box. You can reach it by pulling the plastic panel out so that you can see and replace the flasher.

how much does the resonator in the buick regal 99 cost

On My regal the Cat is located under the car a little bit back from the oil pan. But mine is a 2001 so if its not there on yours, it might be connected to one of the exhaust manifolds.

The curb weight of the 2011 Buick Regal is 3600 lbs..

1994 Buick Regal center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. If there are multiple bulbs, you may want to consider replacing all at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

see here !!!!

http://www.regalgs.org/climate.htm

Climate Control Fading Fix

Written by Brad Moore with original instructions from fugedaboudit.

Pictures by Zach Walker.

1. Pry up the panel that goes around the shifter and pull it off, set aside (you don't have to disconnect the TCS wire - just lay that panel on the seat. The wire will extend far enough). After removing that, you'll see two bolts in the middle that go into the floor. Remove those.

2. Open the center console and take out the rubber bottom. It just sits on the bottom - no need to remove any screws. Under that rubber bottom will be two bolts which look the same as the ones in Step 1. Remove them.

3. Now look at where the center console piece and the dash meet. On the backside of this (down by the gas pedal) you will see a bolt on both the driver and passenger sides. Remove those two bolts. The entire center console should now be free to move.

4. Remove the ash tray to help gain a little bit of clearance. Pull the console unit back (start by pulling from the area where the dash and console meet), possibly pulling up and pushing down on the black part of the shifter unit (where it says PRNDL...etc). Just work it a little - enough to get the entire console moved back a few inches to get clearance for the climate control unit. (See Picture Below)

5. There are two Phillips head screws holding the climate control unit in place. Unscrew those and remove the unit (disconnect the wiring also).

6. There are a few tiny bolts holding the plastic cover on the climate control unit. Take those out and pull the cover apart to reveal the circuit boards.

7. There are two circuit boards - one is the power supply and one is the display board. The display board is the one with the digital display built in - you do NOT need to mess with this board. I recommend not disturbing it much, as I dropped the plastic things that are behind the buttons and spent a long time trying to find them! :) Just unplug the connector that runs between the two boards and focus on the power supply board. The PS board is also held on by four bolts similar to the ones holding the climate control casing together.

8. Flip the power supply board over so that you are looking at the side that would be facing the rear of the climate control unit (I think. My memory is a little fuzzy on this one, but you'll find what you're looking for eventually). Look around the board for some small resistors (we think they are resistors anyways - they are flat and black) that have the number 241 on them. There are about 7 or 8 of them overall and bunched together. A few of them are a couple of inches away, but they are all in the general vicinity. These are the problem pieces. (See Picture Below)

9. Using a small soldering iron, touch the iron on one side of the resistor to melt the existing solder. Then add a little bit of fresh solder. Only add a little bit - that's all it takes! I generally added too much, so I had to mess around with picking that stuff up. A more experienced solderer would probably not have a problem with it. Also, if any of the resistors slides away when you do this, push it out of the way (keep it facing the same way that it was), apply a little bit of fresh solder on the contact points of the board, and then put the resistor back into its spot. Then, holding the resistor with a blunt object (toothpick, etc), melt each end into the fresh solder. Try not to keep the iron on the board too long - you could damage something.

10. Once done soldering, put the board back in the climate control casing and connect the two boards together. Go out to the car and connect the wiring harness to the unit, turn the car on, and see if it works. It should work now! I had problems at first because I didn't have the wiring harness from the car hooked up tight enough, so I was getting some strange results - so be sure that you have it plugged in tightly.

11. Once you are convinced it's working properly, put everything back together and you're all set!

I own a 95 Buick Regal with 104K miles on it.

The Coolant Level Sensor is attached to the radiator.

Look a few inches below and to the left of the radiator cap.

Its a little gray box with a plug and, hopefully, two wires attached to the bottom.

It has a little wire latch on top and a small metal clip near the bottom that holds it in place.

Just in case you know very little about cars... I've never removed mine, but it would probably be a good idea to drain the coolant before doing so.

On a repair note...

I've read that sometimes the sensors get old and needs to be replaced, but sometimes they are just dirty.

Also, the wires connecting the sensor to the module may be bad or not grounded.

You may have a very tiny pinhole in your coolant hose that is allowing air to enter, this will make the light flash.

Lastly, oil may be leaking into the radiator which is very serious.

I am not sure, but I think this happens because of a bad header.

On a personal note...

When it is very hot outside, 95 plus degrees, and I drive for a long time my 'Low Coolant Light Alarm' will start flashing.

It is not supposed to flash if the coolant is low, but show a steady alarm light.

I think my sensor is going bad but this only happens like 7 days out of the year and my engine is in near perfect condition with no leaks whatsoever.

1988 Cutlass Supreme,1961 impala, and a powder blue bentley, with blue 24's.

Knowing the firing order of an engine is an important part of owning a car. The firing order of a 2000 Buick Regal 3.8 is 1-6-5-4-3-2.

if you're trying to locate it, it's inside a square looking black thing under your hood. Look to your right, you'll see it. I hope this answers your question.

To find out the cause of your check engine light, you have a couple options, take it to a shop, and pay them, or, make a trip to your local autozone, or parts america, and ask them to scan it. They normally can pull the codes, and tell you what they mean. Of course they can also sell you the part to fix the problem. Sometimes they will even reset your check engine light, but some local states have passed laws making it so they cant do this. So you can ask to borrow they little code scanner, and you can personally reset it, that is, if the parts store will let you borrow it. Or you can spend about 50 bucks, and buy a scanner/reset tool, and do it yourself, and have the scanner for future use.

The Kelley Blue Book does not go back to 1984. However, the asking price for a 1984 Buick Regal ranges from $3,380 to $5,820. Much of it depends on the condition of the car as well as its options, mileage, and maintenance record.

White smoke from the exhaust is one of two things. In the winter it can be nothing more than condensation. But it can also be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. You say it lasts for an hour, so this would make me think you have an internal engine problem such as a blown head gasket. Does the white smoke smell sweet? Are you loosing coolant with no apparent leak. Do you notice the oil level has increased above the full mark? Is there a white foamy substance on the underside of the oil fill cap? Is the engine overheating or running at a slightly higher temperature than normal? If you answer yes to any of these, you have a serious problem. Stop driving the car and have it looked at by a professional. If you keep driving this car with a blown head gasket you will ruin this engine.

(2) On December 14, 2008 at 00:42 am Hunt3r [0] said:

: The smell is kind of like deisil or something not really like burning coolant though. (1) On December 14, 2008 at 00:37 am Hunt3r [0] said:

: I flushed the coolant, changed the oil, replaced a valve cover gasket and tried putting sealant restorer into the oil and coolant. Yesterday I put a gallon of gas in it and some engine cleaner in the gas. After this it stopped smoking for a while but today it starting smoking when I started it. The coolant is still clean and oil looks normal. Also it seems to run well and doesn't overheat or have power loss. this is my first time using wiki answers so i didn't know where to write this, its also in discussion