Looking into the bonnet it is inside the black plastic box on the right
my 93 grand am was doing something similar to the question you ask. It would drive fine at times and then it would die and when restarting would buck, jerk, etc. and had a had time restarting. After sitting it would seem fine. I had to have my crank case heater assembly replaced and now it seems to be running fine.
My 93 SOHC 2.3l did this and I replaced coil pack housing (Actually mechanics shop replaced after testing) and it fixed problem. These engines are notorious for cracked coil pack 'housing' because of coil on plug design the housing takes alot of heat. Let us know what fixed cause it helps others looking for answers. Good luck
It is possible the torque converter clutch is staying engaged, there is a solenoid in the transmission that sticks and wont let the converter release. there is also a plastic orifice that breaks off and becomes lodged in the solenoid causing the same problem. This usually can be distinguished from an engine problem by noting whether the engine runs normally until you actually put the car in gear
Stop running or stop moving? Anyway, not likely unless it's a big truck with a hydovac break system.
The most likely cause is a dilution of the fuel/ air mixture caused by a vacumn leak. check for a hissing sound near the top center of the engine.
Please ask your question again and provide the following information.
start the car and let it idle while the car is running unplug the mass airflow sensor if the idle does not change then the sensor is probably bad if the idle does change or the engine dies out then it is working so leave it alone cause they arent cheap.
A Chrysler Cirrus does not use a maf.
More than likely. Get the clamp fixed! When going at speed, the clamp will vibrate, and will only be half re-charging the battery (the alternator re-charges it during operation). This means that when you slow down, you may not be getting any charge to it at all. Either that, or its just not making contact with the terminal when you have slowed down.
Im thinking you may want to look into a possible prob. with your alternater..
AnswerPersonally I've experienced this myself I'd say it was the advance not the alternator. On the distributor most often , you'll find either an electronic or vacumm advance . If it's a gas engine when it gets hot before it stalls if the engine starts to knock or sound like a diesel engine then it can be pretty safe to say it's an advance problem or if you don't have an electric distibutor see if the cap and the base are tight if one of those is loose then the timing for your spark would be off and as the vehicle gets hot the advance if working proparly would advance the timing out of sink beyond the reach of the spark inside the distibutor cap and Knock or diesel and eventually stall and not start until it cooled unless jump started in which case the extra juice gives bigger spark and extends its reach within the distibutor cap.check the distibutor for tightness if its not then try starting your car and ever so slightly turn the distibutor until your engine sounds better its a quick fix and may take a couple of tries but it should help. if it is tight then look into getting an timing advance most part store can help explain the replacement (very easy and straight forward) or even help diagnose it but if your part store doesn't seem to help or don't really know much them selves find a new store too
check your mass air flow sensor
No, Gm does not use inertia switches.
No, Gm does not use inertia switches.
The torque converter clutch may be staying engaged, causing it to kill the engine when stopping.
Have the same problem. 1999 ford escort. When at dead stop, sometimes, when peddal is pressed to go, car dies. Also , lately, chokes and dies at startup. Seems to be when its hot, .....I live in Hawaii. If you found the solution, radio it to me.
Thanks, its been hard to find a similar problem
If the noise goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed down, then the problem is most likely the clutch throw out bearing.
It may be the stainless steel shrouds on the exaust pipe. My 1994 truck will rattle when the engine is at a certain speed. The screws holding the metal together have begun to rust out, and the loose pieces are making the rattle. My 1994 truck does just the same. About 3 years ago I was advised by the dealer to replace the timing chain immediately for about 1600.-$CDN (typical advice for a female...) and shrugged it off ever since. I just replace the engine oil more often. I read a few times that the models around 1994 have a slightly lose timing chain causing the intermittent rattle but are of no major concern. I will post again if my engine blows up after all....
What year, make and model car? It could be a fuel pump failure (especially when it gets warm with EFI) causing lack of fuel to either injectors or carburetor, ignition module failing under heat, sensor(s) sending bad info to the computer, and on and on. Does it die suddenly, or sputter out? How far does it need to be driven before it occurs? Is it on hot days only, or anytime? What does it take to make it start running again?
It is a 1997 3800 v6 auto transmission. it started making a slight knocking noise at after being driven about 10 miles. the noise didnt occur again until the car was accelerated after being stopped at a stop light. it then made the noise alot louder and longer but when it reached about 25mph or so it stopped making the noise. but a few miles after that it started making the noise when i had my foot on the gas. then i went up a hill so i accelerated a little more to make it too the top and when i got too the top of the hill the engine died. i let it sit for a few minutes then tried to start it again but it wouldn't. NOTE: when vehicle was stopped at traffic light the needle on the oil gauge was towards the bottom of the gauge but when i accelerated it went back towards the middle
its a 1999 Honda civic lx once car warms up it shuts off but turn key off then on an it runs while driving its not on hot days
Because reverse is a lower ratio gear than drive and puts less load on the engine.
fuel pump or fuel pump relay...ignition module...crank sensor...most likely fuel pump though. take small rubber hammer along with you and beat the hell out of gas tank while your buddy tries to start car. if car wont start until you wake up pump(which is inside tank) by striking tank, then it is the problem.
A very dirty fuel filter is another possibility.
It has to be a dead charging system.... usually a short internal in the alternator