It happened to my van a long time ago, after I loosened the gas tank cap, it never happened again. I guess the ventilation or gas tank cap malfunctioned so no air was let in. You can try this one. .
If your car is cutting off at when u stop change your plugs and plug wires out. If this doesn't stop the problem change out the mass airflow sinsor. thanks and good luck!Answer
What is less expensive changing a bunch of parts (and possiblily installing a defective part) or taking it to an independent garage and have them troubleshoot it and replace the right part?Answer
My car kept stalling out in traffic and when I called AAA they came and Checked and told me the O2 sensor holder had broken so the sensor was hanging loose; they attached it with a twist tie! Worked like a charm ever since and the twist tie is still there!
MY CAR HAS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM IF YOUR PROBLEM STILL EXIST AFTER YOU TRIED EVERYTHING IT COULD BE YOUR TPS (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR)
Does it have a carburetor or fuel injection? If a carb and you give it throttle real slow does it still die? If not look at the accelerator pump in the carb.
Another possibility is the catalytic converter may be plugged. Easy check is get a vacuum gauge. and "T" it in to a vacuum line n the engine that pulls vacuum whenever the engine is running. slowly throttle up, and if the gauge jumps up then slowly drops off to nothing at the same time the engine slows down and dies .the engine is choked and you have a restriction in the exhaust
Have you checked the ignition system out? Sometimes bad ignition components can cause this problem. Change the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotary button. Also, check the carburetor's acceleration pump for operation. With the engine off, remove the air cleaner and look down the carburetor barrel. Quickly move the throttle lever from closed to fully open (or have a helper quickly push the accelerator pedal to the floor a few times). If the acceleration pump is working, you should see a stream of gas spray into the carburetor barrel.
Lets also not forget to check the fuel filter for clogs, and or dirty fuel, rule of thumb is to replace the fuel filter at 30-40,000 mile intervals, also is this vehicle carbureted or fuel injected, if injected its possible you have a bad fuel pressure relief valve problem(low rail pressure to the injectors) follow manufacturers repair/diagnostic procedures. Also if this happens only after the car is driven and warmed up a while, it is possible to have a clogged catalytic converter, consult a certified tech for testing procedures if you are not familiar with this diagnostic procedure.
Be certain you have a good gas cap on the tank as a poor /clogged gas cap vent can sometimes cause stalling on acceleration.
weak fuel pump.
I'm not really qualified to go into the whys; there are a number of possibles. Try using a winter oil (5W-xx or 10W-xx) and run a tank of super unleaded through it. run gas line antifreeze in tank if it's really cold, also if you have fuel injection it may be a faulty temp. sensor, if it's a carburated vehicle it could be the atomatic choke not working as it should, but yeah 5w30 oil is good for the cold season :)
i have a 2000 ford expedition, min did the same thing....twice. first time had a bad O2 sensor replaced that ran fine. second time was plugs Would help to know make and model of vehicle. But the most likely cause is an engine miss due to a bad plug wire or plug or a dead cylinder [no compression]. Other causes could be a vacuum leak or the fuel/air mixture may be way off. The engine is still missing at higher speeds you just don't notice it as the higher engine speed simply covers it up. This is why engine misses are usually diagnosed only at idle or under load while the vehicle is stationary. bestalucktoyou Check passenger side motor mount. A bad one will make the car vibrate at idle. The car very much may be out of time. At higher engine speeds you will not notice it. If you recently had the timing belt done or your timing belt jumped, would cause this. But first try a tune up.
Sounds like your battery has a weak cell and needs to be replaced.
If the rpms are above normal the most likely problem is a vacuum leak at the intake side of the engine. This condition will also typically cause a rough running situation at idle. Another thing that could cause a car to rev up and shake is a bad ecc(computer).
also check your motor mounts if you have an old car.
if its a manual then it could be three things, clutch cable or throttle cable, or IAC (idle air control valve) but if its an automatic it could be throttle cable or IAC.
The linkage in the transmition is loose.
I am having the same problem. I have brought the car in 3 times. They tell me there is nothing wrong, obviously they have not spent much time looking at the car, this happens to me 25% of the time. HELP!!!
I am still having the same problem. The VW dealership had it for over a week and when I got it back they had put a 5 centimetre scratch on the hood and cracked my windshield, then proceeded to tell me that it was there when I brought the car in. They have also told me that what i perceive to be the car having problems shifting gears, is just the car "downshifting" because it's a "low-emissions vehicle". Well, I'm still having the same problems and I haven't gotten any answers form the dealership. This is the first and last VW I'll ever own. The lack of customer service is appalling at the two dealerships I've dealt with.
Pas side frame rail under car
Sounds like the catalatic converter is either pluging up or starting to fail. Either way if this is the problem it will either start having worse performance or just stop runing entirly.
I had this same problem and it was a faulty fuel injector. Check to see if it is wet around any of your fuel injectors.
I have a 1992 q45 I had the same problem i changed my back cats and it still did the same thing coul it be my front ones to
I have a 1995 Mazda 626, I have a similar problem. It dies right at 15 seconds after I hit the gas and remain at 3500 RPM, and I can hardly get up a hill. I have already changed the fuel pump, the injectors were fine, the O2 sensors were fine, changed the air filter, no clogs in the fuel delivery system (yes changed the fuel filter too), changed the plugs and wires, changed the fuel regulator... the only thing left is the catalytic converter is plugged... it's as if my car has asthma, so I'm looking at the Throttle position sensor. Will keep you updated.
I have this cutting out problem and i think Ive managed to diagnose mine to a faulty fuel pump as you can sometimes hear it activate but when you don't the car does not start. but anyway this is what i tried. fortunately my sister has same cars as me, maybe some of these will help you diagnose your problem.
- throttle position sensor
- crankshaft sensor.
- camshaft sensor
- fuel pump fuse/relay
- lambda sensor
- Cat could be broken up and blocked exhaust system causing poor flow.
No but you will need to buy and replace the thermostat. Shouldn't cost more than $5.00 with tax.
Not always the thermostat, it could be vaporlock. You could have air coming into your cooling system do to a hole in the radiator or a leak in a hose. But no serious damage unless you keep running the car hot, you could blow your head gasket, and that can get messy, and rather expensive.
Both of these are completely wrong. I am an ASE master certified technician with an automotive degree. I currently run a repair facility. I have never heard of vapor lock on a coolin system. It is impossible. The thermostat could have caused your initial overheating, but would not cause it to die. 98% of the time your engine has been damaged. If it restarts and runs rough, hopefully it's just a head gasket. If it will not start at all, more than likely you warped your head beyond repair. Alot depends on the vehicle and if it is an aluminum head or cast iron. Neither of these individuals should be answering automotive questions.
most likely cause is the alternator not charging correctly. normal charge voltage with all accesories on is around 13 to 14 volts.anything less than 13 volts means that your alternator isn't charging and the car runs off of the battery until it can't run anymore. As the voltage drops, there is less power to produce a spark and the spark gets weaker or disappears until it can no longer ingnite the fuel/air mixture. You will probably notice that the top speed you can go keeps dropping as the battery drains. When it stalls you will not be able to get it to crank again without charging it.
Hey Bob==You don't say what kind of car it is but if it is a GM it can be the torque convertor needing a new solonoid. GoodluckJoe
it is a 1990 420sel mercdes benz
Fuel filter is plugged or fuel line is cinked, after highway driving where fuel flow is greatest the pump cannot maintaine the flow and engine "runs out of gas" after an hour the fuel line is full again by gravity.
Run with a greater than half a tank until you get it fixed
You might have a faulty TFI (Thick Film Integrated) ignition module. Sometimes it is located on the distributor and sometimes attached to the engine compartment of the vehicle. If it is damaged and becomes overheated, the module will intermittently lose power as it heats up and then finally die on you. It takes about an hour for the module to cool down.
My guess is the fuel filter and or pump. the faster you go, the more fuel your engine requires. Thus, if the flow is restricted your engine may stall.
Sure sounds like ignition to me, Particularily cap,rotor and wires. If replaced were they autozone junk or quality ones? Did you use dielectric grease on them?
check underneth hood at dark and watch 4 fire or sparks b careful watch where you place your hands
Have the same problem. 1999 ford escort. When at dead stop, sometimes, when peddal is pressed to go, car dies. Also , lately, chokes and dies at startup. Seems to be when its hot, .....I live in Hawaii. If you found the solution, radio it to me.
Thanks, its been hard to find a similar problem
It Sounds like it has a corrupted moral sensor on the right side.
Now that I have been informed that this is a real question, I'll give my opinion: The "SEVERE DUTY" Crown Vics such as yours came with 2 different 4.6 motors. So this may not matter in your case. However, the original motor mounts were subject to heat damage from extended idling. There are revised motor mounts with heat shield to prevent this from happening. Should yours have been weakened, and the engine shifts too far when making a right turn only, it may be extending a harness too far, or stressing out a connection that will make a positive contact once the centrifical force of the turn is relieved, it could stall the motor. Therefore, check your motor mounts and jack up the right side of the motor around the mount area, but not directly on it. With the motor running while your doing this you can observe any abnormal movement. If this is the problem I would repolace all motor mounts as other weaken when one goes bad. I do sincerly apologize for offending you, but the thought of a former patrol car killing, did kind of remind me of "Christine."
Try replacing your IAC motor (AKA: idle air control valve). This worked on my car, and the part usually runs from $20-$80. Usually simple to install, just plug it in!
We were having the same problem with our 1983 Nissan (or more correctly Datsun in those days). The culprit turned out to be a loose connection at the positive battery terminal (not the terminal itself, but the multi-spade connector that's piggy-backed to it). It would slide off under the centrifugal force caused in the turn and diconnect power to either the fuel pump or the ingnition. Since the starter and switch are powererd by the main battery cable, the engine would still turn over and you'd still get dash lights, but the car wouldn't restart. I cleaned the contacts in the connector, added a few wire-ties to keep it secure and we were back in business.
Hope that helps.
The air intake sensor is located in the air tube connecting to the air cleaner box. The tube runs driver's side to passenger's side at radiator location and is on the bottom side of the tube. Make a note.....the coolant temperature sensor and air intake sensor are the same.
Try a higher octane gas and see if that helps Your engine may be getting too hot. Check to see if your radiator fan comes on. or Take your Ignition Module to an autozone and have it tested.
If it is stalling when putting it into gear but not while idleing I would check your mass air flow sensor. It may need to be cleaned or replaced. If it is stalling when putting it into gear but not while idleing I would check your mass air flow sensor. It may need to be cleaned or replaced.
If your car has a automatic transmission, put car in neutral get a rolling start then switch to Drive. If car stays running your problem could be a solinoid switch in transmission. The trans. is stuck in second or third gear which would cause your car to stall out.
We had the same problem with our '98 Aurora. Had It to several repair shops and to 2 G.M. dealers. We were chasing the wind. Changed all sorts of expensive parts not to mention a complete tune up. Would have gotten rid of the car but I didn't want to stick anyone. I decided to change the EGR valve because it had solved mystery problems on other cars. It worked like a charm. I had to take it off 6 months later and clean it as the problem returned. All is well now. The part is expensive about $250.00 but it can be put in in minutes
Same problem with my '98 Aurora. It had a blown intake manifold gasket making it run lean and die at idle. The gasket was expensive to replace (as all Aurora parts are) so I had them glue it instead. Worked like a charm and saved me 400 bucks.
key words "today my girlfriend was running some errands. while idling in a parking lot, our car stalled. When she tried to start the car, it would turn-over just fine but wouldn't fire off. then she noticed smoke coming from under the so yeah, now it turns over but won't start. this should mean the computer or mpi relay is shorted out! hope this help. signed the mad scientistAnswerCheck the ECI fuse in the fuse box under the hood.
I figured it out after about 2 weeks. I tried everything, distributor coil, vacuum leaks, the problem ended up being the ignition switch! Random eh? The ignition switch is grounded with the fuel pump. Bad switch, no fuel, no start. I figure I post this to help anyone else out there before you spend about 1200.00 dollars on average to replace the distributor and random shop fees trying to figure it out. I replaced it and hasn't stalled since.
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