Chrysler Sebring

The manual said to take the battery out first (which I did), but that only opened a path to see it about 2' away. After about 30 minutes of hunting, I realized I had to take the Air Filter and the air manifold that runs to the engine. After that, I had to take off the horn assembly to gain very, very limited access to wedge an extended ratchet into the bowels of the engine. I think the same socket that undid the horn assembly fit the CKP nut. It took 10 minutes to undo the bolt a couple ratchet clicks at a time, at least 15 to get the thing to wiggle out, probably 15 minutes to unconnect, reconnect, and snap back to the fram the wire harness, and at least another 10 minutes to ratchet the bolt back in click by click.

Now I know why they say shops charge $500 in to do this - I think they must take the entire engine out... Very painstaking job that requires patience and precision... but quite satisfying to finish it yourself.

Everything explained above is spot on but there is an extremally easy way to remove the bolt on the CPS. Remove the front left tire then remove the plastic inner fender liner. You'll have a straight shot at the bolt (10 mm on my 97) but you will need 30 inches of extension to reach it. Once I figured this out I had the old CPS out and the new one bolted in in 5 minutes.

I had the same problem with my '03 Sebring. For me, it was a bad motor; however, a simple leak in the system will cause the same problem. Removing the interior of the car to look for leaks and/or expose the motor for replacement is fairly easy.

Here are the steps for replacing the motor, best as I can remember them:

1. Lower the top for easier access
   1. Seat is held in place by two clips at the leading edge of the seat. Insert a pry bar next to each location and gently pry up.
2. Remove back seat bottom
   1. Once the seat bottom is removed, 4 nuts at the bottom are exposed. Remove the 2 inner nuts.
   2. Lift up from the bottom; the seat back will unhook from the three clips at the top. Slide the seatbelts behind the seat back and remove the seat back.
3. Remove seat back
4. The insulation behind the seat back is held in place by a few clips. Pop them loose and fold the insulation down to expose the motor.
   1. Gently pry off the speaker grill
   2. Remove the 2 screws next to the speaker holding the panel to the car frame.
   3. There is a felt pad on the top of the panel held in place by 2 screws. Only one of the screws holds the panel to the car's frame, the other just holds on the felt pad.
   4. Gently pry the panel away from the frame. It is held in place by 2 white pin/socket assemblies at the leading edge of the panel. If the pin(s) comes loose from the socket (probably will) then it will be left in the car frame. Gently remove it for later assembly, and slide it back into the socket.
   5. The interior panel has a small metal bar that slides under the rocker panel trim, and can be slid out once the panel is loose.
   6. Disconnect the speaker wires
5. Remove the side interior panel (x2)
   1. Without disconnecting the hydraulic lines, unbolt the piston's bottom bracket holding the piston to the frame.
   2. Manually pull the top about halfway up to expose the piston's top connecting bolt, and disconnect.
   3. If necessary, replace the pistons with new ones now.
6. Remove the hydraulic pistons.
   1. The motor is held in place by four rubber grommets, and just pops out.
   2. Carefully remove the rubber fill plug to release pressure in the system. Watch out for oil spraying / leaking out.
   3. The wiring connector is held to the frame by a push-in plastic mounting connector. Remove and disconnect electrical connection from the motor.
   4. Remove the 2 hydraulic line fittings on the motor. Oil will leak out, plug the holes with the caps shipped with the new motor.
7. Remove the motor
8. Connect new motor to the hydraulic fittings and electrical connection. Do not re-mount on the car frame yet. Fill with Dexron III auto trans fluid through the fill hole in the motor, and re-plug the hole with the rubber stopper.
   1. Hold the motor as high as possible (cut the existing wire-ties holding the hydraulic lines to the car frame). Hold the motor so that the rubber fill plug is straight up.
   2. Hold the pistons upside down, with all fittings connected.
   3. Power the system through a couple of close/open cycles, or until the pistons move in and out freely. It may be necessary to push the piston rods into the cylinders during the first cycle(s).
   4. Turn the pistons right-side up and repeat a couple of cycles. End up with the piston rods fully retracted.
   5. Check the oil level in the motor. It will probably need to be topped off. (within ½" of the top)
   6. Extend the piston rods in preparation for re-installation.
9. Bleed the system
   1. Once again, manually hold the top about halfway up to re-mount the top of the piston rods to the convertible top.
   2. Re-attach the bottom of the piston with the bracket. Be sure that the rubber gaskets & white plastic bushings haven't been lost.
   3. Be sure that the hydraulic lines are routed behind the seat belts.
10. Re-install the pistons.
    1. Push the mounting grommets into the holes in the car frame. This is a bit difficult; be sure the grommets are all seated and secure!
11. Re-install the motor.
12. Re-install the side interior panels. Remember to re-connect the speaker wires!
13. Re-attach the insulation. Closing the top will make it easier to get the clips back into the holes.
14. Re-install the seat back & seat bottom.

Fuses That "Blow" Repeatedly

Without being able to "hands on" troubleshoot the circuit served by the repeatedly blowing fuse, none of us can identify the specific defect which is causing your problem.

Therefore, the following generic answer can be applied to any electrical circuit, whether in a vehicle, or in a building, whether direct current [DC], or alternating current [AC].

Fuses [and Circuit Breakers] are safety devices designed and installed in electrical circuits TO PROTECT the conductors [wires] and other components from short circuit conditions and/or overload conditions which cause an extremely large flow of electrical current [measured in Amperes], which causes overheating of the conductors that results in damage to the insulation and the conductors.

And in a worst case scenario, the probability of a FIRE which could destroy the vehicle, house, or other structure in which the circuit is located.

When a fuse or Circuit Breaker [and replacement fuses, or repeatedly "tripping" Circuit Breakers] "blow," especially if it happens repeatedly, is an indication of an UNSAFE CONDITION in that circuit, usually a short.

The fuse or circuit breaker is doing what it was designed, intended, and installed to do; that is to protect the conductors and components of the circuit which it serves.

The proper "fix" for this issue is for a qualified technician, who knows what he or she is doing, to troubleshoot the involved circuit, find and identify the defect, and make proper repair [s], BEFORE replacing the fuse again [with the properly sized fuse or before resetting a circuit breaker].

Some ignorant few people will suggest installing a larger fuse or breaker to solve the problem, BUT that will only increase the hazard, not correct it.

Do not follow "bad" advice by installing a larger fuse in a misguided attempt to correct the problem. To install an oversized fuse would almost guarantee damage to the wiring and the probability of an electrical system fire.