Dodge Caravan

Let's see... There's two in the dash, two in the front doors, two in the back of the van, and if equipped, two small 2" or so tweeters in the rear pillars.

No.

The BIOS (Basic Inputs Output System) initially 'boot's the computer. You know how the computer turns on, then beeps? Before that beep, it is doing a 'POST" (Power On Self Test), a very rudimentary test that makes sure all computer peripherals are working. CPU, Motherboard, RAM, storage controller, video, etc.

If it passes, it gives the single all-clear 'Beep!' If there's a problem, it will produce a beep code to inform you what went wrong.

It will then initialize and configure your computer based on the CMOS settings, such as what speed the processor, RAM, and videocard run at.

Then it boots the operating system from a storage device.

It also, behind the scenes, manages many of the more basic hardware functions of the computer.

Without the BIOS, no computer would work.

Trouble code P0340 means:Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction

You can find caravan holiday parks at Park Holidays, Turu, Park Resorts and Visit Scotland websites. Caravan holiday parks are like time shares in the US.

Did you try checking for Spark, then fuel. When those are bad it wont allow it to start. If you get no spark then check out the Coil, see if theres any voltage going to it, if there is and you get no spark from any plug it might be the coil, or the rotor, for fuel pump, just see if theres any fuel getting into the injectors, find out if that pump is getting fuel. If neither is working, could be the ASD (Auto ShutDown), when that is bad it wont allow juice to get to the coil or pump... By Juice I mean volts. or could be the Fuel Pump Relay... Hope that I have helped.... If it wont crank that's another story.

Start at the RR, then LR, RF and end at the LF.

Again depending on age could be choke not working properly Could be a vacuum leak check connections depending on the car.

The fuel pump is in the tank

Noisy pump, hard starting, stalling.

Regular power steering fluid.

Answered it for myself. Solenoid pack leaking. Dealer charged about $300.00. If there's a next time I'll do it myself and save about 120.00. Can anybody tell me what good warranties are when they don't cover anything.

315/70/17

A vapor leak in the fuel system.

A vapor leak in the fuel system.

The system is in your car to recycle vapors released from gasoline in your gas tank. Instead of allowing the vapors to escape to the air, the government started requiring auto makers back in the 70's to trap those vapors and burn them in your engine. What makes up the system? Your gas tank, gas cap, evaporator canister, hoses, check valves and a purge valve solenoid that controls it all and triggers your check engine light to come on when there is a vacuum leak in the system (which usually ends up being you did not tighten the gas cap when you last filled up which can trigger p code 442 (evap system leak).

I would really like some pictures if possible.

any petcocks on the throttle body or intake are vacuum lines excluding fuel lines

Yes, there are bleeder valves for cooling systems for 99 Malibu.

The body computer is on the back side of the under dash fuse box.

That is another name for the under hood fuse box.

I went to close the side door on my vehicle and it was jammed locked. A gentleman came over and had me pull on the inside handle (as to open it) then he pulled on the outside handle as to open it and it released. Hope this helps silverpenny

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

The design of the spare tire winch has been the same from 1996 up to now, perhaps excepting Stow&Go minivans. It works as follows. The nylon "stem" of the wheel holder has a collar that gets caught by a spring latch inside the square tube protruding downward. This is the tube which the cable comes out from. The latch itself is a stamped piece of metal with two "claws" that extend into the tube through the slots on its rear-facing side. That piece is attached to the tube by means of a flat spring, whose one end is riveted to the latch and the other one to the tube, some 3" upward. To operate the latch, there is a rod which pulls it away from the tube (the claws have tabs on their ends so they cannot come out completely). The other end of the rod is hooked to a looped flat spring. The spring is shaped like a hose clamp with two long straight "ears", and the round portion is pressed onto the bottom end of the winch's main shaft. So, as you begin to unwind the cable, the clamp/spring should turn together with the shaft and pull on the rod, thus releasing the latch. And this must happen before the weight of the wheel transfers to the latch throgh the plastic holder (which would occur if the latch fails to move on the first few turns of the shaft). Apparently, when the latch claws get stuck in their slots due to dirt or rust, the shaft just slips inside the spring. It could be a fail-safe feature to prevent the parts from breaking, but it also easily prevents the latch from releasing. Recently (as of this writing), I inspected the winch on my minivan and the wheel was found to be stuck. The previous inspection was two years ago. Back then, the latch did work and I sprayed it with silicone grease. A stuck latch should be easy to release if you lie down on your back and support the weight of the wheel by pushing it up. If you can hold the wheel close to the floor pan, there's enough room to reach the latch with a finger, through the center hole of the wheel. If it's too difficult to hold the wheel up, you can insert a long screwdriver through one of the holes in the wheel and unhook the latch with it. It still helps to at least partially support the wheel so its full weight is not resting on the latch. This time around, I cleaned the mechanism with WD-40 and then brush-painted the claws and their slots with anti-seize, and also applied it between the flat spring and the square tube, to make sure nothing holds it there. Do not lubricate the spring itself, and the machined neck on the shaft where it is clamped on. Now I believe that the winch has to be inspected and serviced at least annually. Don't forget to pump up the spare tire at the same time. Hope this helps.

The input and output speed sensors are on the front of the transmission case. Both are two wire sensors. The input is closer to the engine.