Drywall

This could be caused by the drywall being damp. But you also shouldn't have any spackling compound there, - it should be drywall mud.

13 sq. ft. is a closet, that's only 3x4 and a bit. How tall?

It shouldn't be a problem. The glue is water based and the mud should adhere to it.

If it is necessary to paint a hair-on cowhide rug, use spray paint for fabric. If latex or oil paint is used it will make the rug stiff and sticky.

Yes, you can use it....but what are you trying to do? The drywall primer is specifically designed to seal the drywall and make the surface uniform. You will not get any benefit from using it on top of a finish coat except for using it as a base coat for changing colors.

Rub it with a damp rag, it will come off quite easily.

One 4x8 x1/2 inch sheet of the currently produced 'Light' drywall is about 32 pounds. The old style one that it replaced was 54 pounds.

You use an air compressor with an attachment to spray the compound on the wall.

Hog squash. You can apply it with a roller, however, it is easier and makes a better appearance if you use the air gun to spray it on. If you use a roller, the easier way to go is to get the powder texture. However, you must know that the majority of times when you apply with a roller you will get small points or peaks and they become a pain to paint.

Basically just follow the manufacturer's guidelines on the mix, you'll want about a pancake batter consistency, and just roll on.

Well, most metallic paints are actually car paints. So it will be very hard and expensive to do it to dry wall.

Never heard of that before. The drywall may be very dusty, or the primer iwas not mixed totally.

Yes, you can.

There are a variety of different ways a fast, simple, and easy way would be to measure how much you added the first time. Or drill a small hole in your wall take a paper clip, straighten it, bend it slightly, stick it through the hole about half way down the edge of the paper clip next feel around to see if there was a soft area, this is the drywall, make sure to get as far back as possible with the soft area and then pull out and take some of the drywall to then take a flashlight and ruler to measure the length of the wall surface to the back of the soft spot, it should be about one fourth of a centimeter to a full centimeter.

1/8inch

The drywall wasn't primed properly.

$4.44 for a sheet of 4x8 1/2 in drywall at menards in Morris Illinois

Around 350 square feet

how much will it cost to rip out 1300 sq ft of drywall and insulation and replace said

12.5 regular sized sheets will do it.

If you are looking for a professional painter no less than $15,000

If you are ok with 'just a painter " probably you can find somebody to do the job for $7-8000.

That all depends on the location of your new house.

PVA is a better primer for new drywall. Do you need it, not really. Any good latex primer will do the job just as well. I guess it really just depends on what you expect your primer to do. Cheap primers will seal the drywall, but not much more. I find bonding primers and pva primers will provide a much more solid platform for topcoats. They may cost more and be a little overkill, but they will provide you with layer of primer that will allow your topcoat to dry in even. You can also dry a high build primer, which is the product I prefer to use. They give you a great platform to work from, and since they are usually about 3 mils thicker that standard primer, they fill in a lost of voids in your wall. If you go with this kind of primer, it is best to spray it. You really can't achieve the mil build up you need from a brush and roller application. If you use the roller application, and are worried about really sealing the wall and filling voids, I would recommend two coats of primer.

That's going to depend on how many rooms there are in the house, and how high

the ceilings are. Neither of those numbers can be calculated from "2500 square feet".

I'm ripping off my nasty carpet and talked to my contractor friend and she said to paint the plywood with a water based opaque deck stain. She mentioned the brand Fortune. Then you seal it with a gloss or whatever finish. Do not wet the plywood, it needs to be cleaned without getting it wet. I'll let you know how it works. The cheapest paint-grade plywood would be BC grade. It's smooth finished on one side only. If you need something nicer, you can go with any smooth plywood. Check for divots, or "footballs" (the plugs they use to fix divots found at the plant).

If it's small spread mesh tape over it, then mud it. If bigger than doorknob size, put a patch of drywall into it then mesh tape and mud.

yes...but the right way (and easier) is to scrape off the "hard-rounded little bumps"

Use a speckling compound or joint compound.