Flooring

Tatami.

I have this same problem and have not yet contacted a plumber about it but I may. My home is super insulated and uses an number of technologies for heat retention that were more common in Canada in the past. Now building code in the northern U.S. has begun adopting standards such as HRV's (heat recovery ventilators) and perhaps some heat retention plumbing techniques as well. Here is my guess. More than likely this is a vent stack check valve to slow the penetration of sub-zero air from freezing the water in your P traps. The valve has gotten old and the soft rubber O ring has either fallen off and washed down the sewer or just hardened. As your waste stack drops its load and draws air behind it this check valve opens and closes intermitently and as it slams shut you hear an audible click or tapping noise. This can even happen when the barometric preasure above the stack changes relative to the preasure below the valve. Even wind can cause mine to process once and awhile. If you discover differently please post as I am not ready to pay for the damage it would take to excavate this valve from the wall and replace it. ABS has a very high expansion rate. I bet it happens when you run hot water. The pipe "grows" and ticks as it rubs against wood or sheetrock. Then it ticks slower as it cools.

shall affect the air conditioning performance by marble floor

If you're referring to a "stack", the pipe that protrudes from the roof of the structure, then yes. All indoor plumbing; sink drains, bath and shower drains, toilets, etc. require a stack. The stack pipe has nothing to do with eliminating smells. It's necessary to provide a vent for the closed system. Without the vent, waste water will not flow properly to the sewer/septic. It's like holding your finger on top of a straw. The fluid won't drain out of the straw as long as your finger is there. Most building codes around the country require vent stacks on residential plumbing systems.

no

I would tile up to the pan where it sits. If you remove it, you will have to tile completely under it so it stays level and raise the drain. If it is in the basement or or over a finished ceiling this can be a problem. If there is a vanity, I would remove it and tile under because is is much less hassle and gives a better result.

There are 9 sq feet in one foot of space. Now you must multiply. The answer is 441 square feet.

you can replace the water closet and vanity sinty /or pedistal lav

they also make a remodel plate to change from a 2 or 3 handle faucet on a tub to a single handle

It was probably live set back then with a mud bed and metal lathe,demo in that case is rough, you can tile over the existing tile if its stucturly sound.this will add weight so if its the floor check the joists you may have to sister them. NEW INFO: Try adding a new vanity, new mirror, and new lighting. Simple pieces that will add a lot of new style to the space without a major overhall.

Old carpeting can be a health hazard only if it has been poorly maintained and has been allowed to become contaminated by mold growth or by chemicals that are themselves health hazards.

Carbon Dioxide is heavier than air so the monitor will work best near the floor. However is your monitor for Carbon Dioxide or Carbon Monoxide.

If the latter, CO detectors can be placed near the ceiling or near the floor because CO is very close to the same density as air.

Depend on state to state requirements, but in most states all that is required is that it is safe and serviceable, both of which would be hard to prove one way or the other.

The other obligation is to adhere to the "lease". if there is no promise or requirement in the lease fro them to replace it at some interval or condition, then they are not obliged.

You may want to play the unsanitary & Black mold card if you think it applies. The BBB or consumer affairs office of your city or state is a good place to ask.

5500sqft will cost you 900rs per sq feet without finishing and the rest depends on what you want in it...types of furniture lighting kitchen dinner...

What is the floor covered with? Do you have access to the underside of the floor?

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and look for your tile type. The install cost is shown on the shelf. Anything higher is a ripoff and anything lower has no experience. I do not live near you but average price for standard 12"x12" tile over concrete floor that is level is $2.00 you can add these amounts for more complex jobs:

SECOND FLOOR JOB OR EACH ADD. FLOOR .....................$0.50 SQFT

level concrete floor with liquid mixed leveller....................$0.50 SQFT

8" x 8" tile ........................................................................$0.25-0.50 SQFT

6" x 6" tile ........................................................................$0.50-0.75 SQFT

4" x 4" tile ........................................................................$0.75-1.00 SQFT

USE BACKER BOARD OVER WOOD SUBFLOOR

INCLUDES TAPED JOINTS AND SCREWS EVERY 6 INCHES..$3.00 SQFT

ADD PLYWOOD UNDER BACKER BOARD..............................$2.00-2.50

INSTALLED ON DIAGONAL (DIAMOND)................................$2.00 PER CUT

EACH ADDITIONAL CUT.......................................................$0.50-2.00

scrape and dig.

Use a high-quality sealant and its specifications depending upon the requirement would be the best solution for the slate tile before grout.

Our eyes adjust to brightness automatically. I don't think I'd want to spend a lot of time in an all white room, though.

From a design perspective, though, I recommend toning down either the wall color or tile color. If the room has already been built, it will be much easier to change the wall color than the tile.

Even using an off-white or light tan on the walls would make a world of difference.

Tile installation is roughly equal to what you paid for the tile. That will include the labor to prepare the surface and the necessary tools. If you are doing a floor, it might be cost effective to buy at least 12 inch square tiles.

a few days reading how to books

I guess the question needs to be - a professional, or a DIY (do-it-yourselfer).

I believe 15 years of experience in a variety of trades (carpentry, electrical, painting, plumbing, roofing, drywall, etc.) is necessary to be considered a true professional in the field

The bathroom floor should be of a slip-resistant material surface, whether it be tile, stone, vinyl, or carpeting.

Fees & charges change from town to town, region to region

I would need to know how the pipe you want to use is set. I will guess that it might be horizontal? There is a saddle clamp available that could possible be used. A section of pipe could be cut out and an inlet added. Rubber couplers would be used to connect the two. You also have to consider how and where a toilet would be vented. Is there a vent behind where you are planing to install the toilet and if not can one be added?

Almost for certain, you have water damage in your sub floor which is weakening the floor, causing it to sag, causing the tile to crack. Yes you could replace the sub floor and flooring, but find what's causing the water damages and fix that first.

or a joist could be broken