Ford 500

On the passenger side of the car near the firewall. It is mounted to the strut tower under the motor mount cross member.

It's just a trim level , no particular meaning

According to the 2005 Ford Five Hundred Owner Guide :

The engine coolant system capacity is ( 11.6 US. quarts / 11.0 litres )

IF you have the black buttons on the steering wheel, on the RIGHT side, I believe the RESET button gives you the option to do the System Check. When the Oil life appears on the screen hit the RESET button again. A screen will then show up asking if you want to reset the oil life to NEW, if so select RESET again. The timing is very hard. It took me 3 tries my 1st time.

to wear your seatbelt

i just replaced the plugs on my 2007 ford five hundred...not quite like swapping plugs on an old 5.0L but not impossible either...first, if you are not ready to take your intake manifold off, take it to a shop...second make sure you have the right tools...something specific is the T-20 torx bit you'll need to pull off a "valve" on top of the manifold just after the throttle body...

i removed the upper airbox, air intake tube and disconnected the hoses attached to it...careful with the mass air sensor connector clip...

then i disconnected everything attached to the manifold and throttle body...

hoses(i'd say about 5 or so)

wires

throttle body motor clip

then remove the bolt between the 2 torque arms that are attached at the engine and one at the strut tower brace...the top arm will swivel to the side so you can reach behind the manifold...

there is a double vacuum hose grommet that needs to be removed to access one of the EGR valve attachment bolts...

the hardest part for me was accessing the three 5/16" bolts that attach the EGR valve to the manifold...in the back behind the area just after the throttle body...you can loosen them and finger them out the rest of the way...you can reach 2 of them from under the throttle body with a 12pt combination wrench(don't drop it)...the other one i used a 1/4" socket wrench with a short extension(5/16" socket)...in hindsight i would have tied the wrench to my wrist just in case i lost any grip...

after that, it's on to the manifold...there are 8 bolts that go all the way to the heads and there are 4 smaller screws(3/16" i think) that attach the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold...the fuel rail is attached to the lower intake manifold which stays behind...you won't be able to take off the whole lower assembly because of the fuel rail...

wiggle the upper intake manifold and just lift it out of the way...i did not completely remove the manifold...there are still a couple things still attached to the manifold...just move it enough to where you can access the rear bank...

remove the coil-on-plug retaining bolt...pull the boot...pull the spark plug...install new spark plug(don't forget anti-seize)...repeat for all six...compare old and new plugs and make sure you have the right plugs...seems like an obvious thing, but I've met some crazy people...

now reverse the order to put it all back together...i did this in my driveway in about 3hrs...i did not use any manual, just some simple mechanical knowledge...if it seems too complicated, then it probably is and you should rethink the notion of even attempting this...i think i covered everything you'll need to know...just don't break anything...

good luck...

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Five Hundred

Having bought one, and still having the sticker, it was $2240.00.

It may require downward pressure and spinning at the same time. I just did my rear brakes on an escort with rear disc brakes and this was the case.

The 3.0 liter Ford V6 engine :

Front wheel drive

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of vehicle > driver

---------------------------------

rear wheel drive

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of vehicle

changing brake pads on ford 500 and the capipers seem stuck, took out the 2 bolts and it does not budge am I missing something?

( 6 quarts ) with engine oil filter change , according to the Owner Guide

Right behind the front bumper (About a foot back) in the center. Really well placed, it's right where you can reach it. I think the oil pan plug is a 15mm.

the fuse box is in the top of glove box

For a 2005 Ford Five Hundred ( according to the Owner Guide )

( 19.0 US. gallons )

To replace the rear axle seals, lift and support the rear of vehicle, remove the tires, remove the drums, remove the nuts holding the bearing/seal retainer in place, install the drums backwards (that's right, backwards) and secure drums to axle flange with two or three lug nuts, using a large hammer, tap on the drum as to force axle/bearing assembly out from the axle tube, take the axle assemblies to a machine shop to have the old bearings and seals replaced then reinstall the assemblies back into the vehicle. Unfortunately the original bearings have to be destroyed in order to replace the seals.

Open the hood, on the passenger side of the engine bay (compartment) you will find two plastic tanks mounted on the fender wall. It is the second tank back. Look at the outside of the tank for markings to indicate levels. (MW San Diego)

According to the 2006 Ford 500 Owner Guide :

( Motorcraft FL-820-S )

Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power steering

fluid ( according to the Owner Guide )

some times it can be found on gem module but most of the time take it to dealer and let them retrive the information from the vehicle computer if you can not find the orignal code card with the owners manual the shop should not charge you more than a half hour of labor for retriving the info for you.

This is the FREE!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cadt0N4M5g&feature=youtu.be

The price of a 1968 Ford LTD when it was new typically ranged from around $3,000 to $4,000, depending on the options and trim levels selected. Adjusted for inflation, that would be approximately $22,000 to $30,000 in today's dollars. The LTD was a full-size car known for its comfort and spacious interior, appealing to buyers looking for a family vehicle during that era.

it is down by the brake pedal on a metal box

Have noticed that Ford still uses the screw style pistons on the rear calipers. To retract the piston use either a caliper/piston tool or a set of needle nose pliers. Turn the piston clockwise to get it back in but take note of the position of the grooves as they normally need to align so that a imaginary straight line through the grooves points to the center of the caliper.

If you chage the pads before they are worn down to the metal and no groves in the rotors you do not have to turn them. I have owned several cars and replaced the pads or had the dealer replace the pads. Turning the rotors every time is a ruse to get you to buy new rotors. Every time you turn a rotor you shave metal off of it which makes it thinner. Eventually it is below specs. and they sell you a new rotor. They will shave so much off the first time, the next time you go nfor a brake job you will be convinced you need new rotors. To qualify my statements, I have been retired for 7 years from a major auto co. ,and when I was much younger I used to rebuild cars as a hobby. These quick lane oil and brake shops that advertise lifetime brake jobs will not give you the life time guarantee unless they turn the rotors, thus insuring your return to their shop for replacement pads and now a new rotor because they will say that if you have them turned again they will be underspecs, thus you will have to purchase new rotors.