Ford Escort

No. The 97 is a third generation escort and the 96 is a second generation escort.

It's fuel injected so it doesn't have a carburetor

The heater core is leaking. The whole dash has to come out to fix it. Even master mechanics dread a heater core repair. Try some alumapowder in the radiator. Try some of this, it really works and stops leaks without plugging up the radiator.

It is under the air filter housing.

On the back side towards the transmission. There will be a large batter cable going up to the starter relay or battery positive connector. On the lower back side of the engine at the transmission. There will be a large battery type cable going up towards the starter relay or battery. " Look fer it"

No , it is NOT an interference engine ( 1.9 liter 4 cylinder engine in a 1995

Ford Escort , according to the Gates website )

There are no vacuum lines running to the automatic transmission.

Just squeeze the 2 prongs together to take the tension off.

There is no distributor. It has the EDIS system. Electronic distributorless ignition system. The crankshaft positon sensor (CKP) sends an electical charge to the Power Control Module (PCM) which electronically distributes the secondary voltage to the plugs according to different sensor parameters..

To repair a transmission that is stuck in gear on a 1989 Ford Escort 1.9L CFI, it will be necessary to drop the transmission out of the vehicle. It will probably have to be overhauled by replacing a belt or fixing the linkage, that is causing it to be stuck in gear.

have u checked ur relays?

After removing the positive and negative cable, follow the negative cable to where it's grounded to the wheel well. Remove the end of the cable with the wrench. Track the positive cable to its connection on the driver's side of the engine and remove it with the wrench. Now, attach the new positive cable first and install the negative cable last and start the car to ensure that the connections are working on your Ford Escort.

I cant help you with a 1995, but when I was looking for a 1994 routing, I found a 1998 diagram of the escort serpentine belt. I found it on about.com under auto repair. http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/l/bl_img_ford004.htm There is the link. Good Luck. Hope this can help!!!

Check the 30 amp Blower fuse. If not that check the fan relay, if not that check the blower motor directly from a jump on the fan itself.

Most vehicle diodes are located in the alternator.

You don't repair them. You replace the ends. The ends wear out, especially if you forget to grease them or the rubber boot gets torn and lets muddy water splash in. If there's any play at all, they're shot. You straighten out the cotter key and pull it out. Take off the nut with a wrench. If you're lucky, a whack on the end of the bolt where the nut was will separate the end from the socket. Most of the time, though, you need a "pickle fork." That's a ball-joint separator tool. It looks like a tapered tuning fork. Essentially, it's two wedges on a stick. You jam it in the gap between the tie rod end and the actuator (where the rubber boot is) and whack it with a hammer to drive the wedges on either side of the tapered bolt. If you hold your mouth right and use the right cusswords and a big enough hammer, it pops loose. BEFORE YOU UNSCREW IT!!! measure and record the distance from the bolt on the old tie-rod end to the other end of the tie rod, or you'll mess up the alignment. Then loosen the lock-nut and screw the end off the tie rod. Put the new boot and grease fitting (if any) on the new end. Screw the new end on to the exact measurement and tighten the lock nut. Put the bolt through the actuator. Screw the nut on the end and tighten it two oomphs. Line up a slot on the castellated nut with the hole in the bolt and put the cotter key in. Spread the ends of the key so it won't fall out. Then check your toe-in.

Sounds like it could be a blown fuse. Pop open the fuse panel inside the car and look at the diagram for the fuses that operate those things and see if they are blown.

There's no way to set timing. Just align marks on camshaft and crankshaft during belt installation. There may be another problem if your car is still running rough.

Remove wheels remove and support brake caliper Remove center dust cap Remove cotter pin Remove slotted washer Remove center nut Wiggle rotor--outer bearing should fall out Remove rotor Remove grease seal Inner bearing should fall out

On the front (passenger side) of the engine.

Caution: If you do not know how to work on a car, do not attempt this. Take it to a good repair shop. Estimated cost at repair shop: $500-$700. Parts to do it yourself: $400. You need to buy the struts, top plate (hides in the rear fender), and like most escorts that old, springs and a sping compressor (auto zone has a buy back (rent) policy, $30 for the spring compressor.). You can get these preassembled, but it will cost a little more. First you have to remove the interior rear trim to get to the 2 nuts that hold the top plate in place. Usually somewhere in the trunk area. Loosen those up, but do not remove yet. Jack the car, remove the wheel. Remove the break hose from the strurt. Remove the two bolts holding the strut to the wheel hub. Your going to need a tourch and some liquid loosener, and a good, big, wrench, these will be tight, and rusty. The wheel will drop when the bolts are lossened, may take some hammering. Now finish the bolts to the top plate. The strut will come out after that, may take some wiggling to remove it. Check for rust and holes up inside were the plate was. If it is to holy and rusty, you have a whole other problem. Find someone to weld some steel in there. If you didn't buy the assemble strut, you need to put the strut, spring and top plate together before you insert it back into the car. This is where you need the spring compressor to compress the spring so you can screw on the top plate. Be careful with the spring compressor, if it pops off the spring while it's compressed, it can cause injury. Reverse the procedure for insertion.

in the thermostat housing on the left side of the engine

where can i find head gasket 2.0 diesel

6x9 for rear 6 1/2 for front

yeah only if you modify it. I bought the size 6x9 and i catch hell trying to mount these so. Know thanks to you I have to return them and geet my money back.

I sugest you taking the original speakers out and take them to the store of your selection and align the mounting holes right.

That would be a long trip! Check on the weight of the trailer that the Escort is rated to pull. Definitely, you would need to pack light and put the heavier stuff up front of the trailer. It might be easier in the long run to pay for a truck and tow the car--or to hire a freight company to ship the items across country.