Please take the time to read my complete answer fully. You won't be disappointed, and I promise you will learn a lot!

The 800 & 801 SERIES of Ford tractors were built with many different options.

**Including models: 820, 850, 860, 811, 821, 841, 851, 861, 871, 881. **

- Please understand, each different Model within the Series carried different options! **This is a CRITICAL thing to understand!**

Engines included several different fuel types, including: gasoline, LP gas (propane), and diesel.

The rear PTO (Power Take Off) options could be any of the following:

No PTO at all, the "standard" PTO (aka: non-live PTO), a "Live" PTO, or a fully "Independent" PTO.

- The "No" PTO option was typically found on the industrial or standard versions, and often had a front-end loader or setup as a T/L/B (tractor/loader/backhoe) associated with them.

- The "Standard" (non-live) PTO was typically found with the 4-speed transmission. This PTO required depressing the clutch to disengage the PTO, which in turn stopped forward or rearward motion at the same time. It also would stop the operation of the hydraulic pump, therefore making the 3-point hitch unable to lift until the clutch pedal was again released. Very commonly found on every Ford 9N, 2N, 8N, NAA (Jubilee), 600 with 4-spd., and 800 with 4-spd.

- The "Live" PTO (utilizing a 2-stage clutch) option was typically found with the 5-speed transmissions, and was more commonly found on the later 600/800 and 601/801 Series of tractors.

- The fully "Independent" PTO option was linked with the Select-O-Speed 10-speed transmissions.

Tractor could have a rear 3-point hitch (with or without).

Tractor could have live rear hydraulic remotes (2 quick-connect hoses & couplers for operating a remote cylinder on, say, a transport disc or a transport style tow-behind rotary mower).

You would need to know which options your tractor has to accurately gauge its worth. Obviously, the more options it has, the MORE it's worth.

Live and Independent PTO's and any 3-point hitch is VERY desirable, and would boost the tractor's value considerably.

Additionally, Power Steering options on the later 800 & 801 series, as well as optional front end loaders will also jump a tractor's value significantly higher.

Also, the overall condition of the tractor is a major factor. Everything from the running and operating condition of the engine, clutch, and transmission, to the body (tinwork), brakes, and tires all play into the equation.

Check the below link to learn more about the Ford 800 & 801 series of tractors:

(You will likely have to Copy and Paste the link below, into your browser:)

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/tractor-brands/ford/ford-tractors.html

**** As a generic baseline, and my observations... Current 2011 values put a Ford 800 series tractor, reasonably equipped with 5-spd, 3-pt hitch, and live PTO, in good operating condition around $2,000 to $3,500. ****

I've seen really ratty ones (including non-running ones) sell for as little as $800 to $1,800. Keep in mind, these all needed some sort of repair work done to them. Again, I repeat... Overall CONDITION plays a HUGE role in farm tractor values!

Additionally... you can get a better understanding of all older farm tractor values by going to farm equipment auctions, talking to dealerships, looking on-line, and watching eBay and other "live" auctions.

For example, I currently own a Ford 860 gas. She has good paint, very good rubber, 3-pt hitch, live PTO, and 5-spd tranny, that is easily worth around $2,500 -$3,000. More if I ever get around to restoring it.

I also own a Ford 871 gas. She has good paint, very good rubber, 3-pt hitch, independent PTO, 10-spd Select-O-Speed tranny, rear hydraulic remotes, power steering, and a fully-functional hydraulic FORD front-end loader... Basically the works.

Worth about $3,500-$4,500. More if I ever get around to restoring it.

Hope this is of help to everyone out there! ~ AJ superturbodiesel2@yahoo.com

• Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

Remove intake hoses any wire harness alternator and alt mount free up the heads loosen in sequence in quarter turns

front of 6 4 2 8

engine 5 1 3 7

clean remaining gasket inspect block of any cracks no cracks take heads to machine shop for inspection and resurfacing if heads check out buy head gaskets clean all gasket surfaces with scotch brite pads starter spray then final wipe with rubbing alcohol let dry copper spray new head gaskets put gaskets inplace gaskets marked up put new heads inplace torx

1.37lbs

2.loosen full turn

3.22lbs

4.90degrees

5.90degrees

each step in sequence

Cylinder Heads

Removal

Rotate crankshaft to zero degrees top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Drain engine cooling system.

Remove air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body.

Mark and remove vacuum lines to upper intake manifold.

Disconnect EGR backpressure transducer hose from EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube, loosen lower EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nut and rotate EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube away from EGR valve.

Disconnect the throttle position sensor (TP sensor), idle air control valve (IAC valve), EGR backpressure transducer and EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connectors.

WARNING: COVER FUEL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE WITH SHOP CLOTH TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL FUEL SPRAY INTO EYES.

Relieve pressure at the fuel pressure relief valve (Schrader valve).

Remove fuel line safety clips.

CAUTION: Cover fuel line ends with clean shop cloths to prevent dirt from entering opening.

Disconnect fuel lines.

Remove upper intake manifold as outlined. Discard old intake manifold upper gasket.

Disconnect engine control sensor wiring retainers from rocker arm cover stud bolts and each fuel injector, and position the engine control sensor wiring out of the way.

NOTE: Fuel injectors and fuel injection supply manifold may be removed with lower intake manifold as an assembly.

Remove fuel injection supply manifold and fuel injectors.

Remove ignition wires from spark plugs.

Remove wire harness retainers from valve cover retaining stud bolts.

Remove ignition coil and bracket from LH front cylinder head and set aside.

Disconnect upper radiator hose and heater water hoses.

Remove camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) and housing.

Disconnect engine control sensor wiring from engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) and the water temperature indicator sender unit.

If LH (front) cylinder head is being removed, perform the following:

Disconnect generator electrical connectors.

Remove drive belt.

Remove drive belt tensioner.

Remove power steering support bracket and power steering pump as an assembly and set aside in a position to prevent fluid from leaking out.

Remove oil level indicator tube retaining nut from exhaust manifold stud bolt. Rotate or remove oil level indicator tube from exhaust manifold.

If RH (rear) cylinder head is being removed, perform the following:

Remove intake manifold support.

Remove valve covers.

NOTE: Regardless of cylinder head removal order, the No. 3 cylinder intake valve push rod (6565) must be removed to allow removal of lower intake manifold.

Loosen rocker arm seat retaining bolts enough to allow the rocker arm to be lifted off the push rod and rotated to one side.

Remove push rods. Identify the position of each push rod. The push rods should be installed in their original position during reassembly.

Remove lower intake manifold.

Remove spark plugs.

Remove exhaust manifolds.

Remove cylinder head retaining bolts and discard.

Remove cylinder heads.

Remove and discard the old head gaskets.

Installation

CAUTION: Use care when scraping aluminum surfaces to prevent gouging which may cause leak paths.

NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation except those specifying special sealant.

Place shop cloth in valve tappet valley to catch any dirt or gasket material. Clean cylinder head, intake manifold, valve cover and head gasket surfaces. If the cylinder head was removed for a head gasket replacement, check the flatness of the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces.

Position new head gaskets, noting UP designation on head gasket face, on cylinder block using the cylinder head to block dowel for alignment.

NOTE: Replace cylinder head to block dowel if damaged.

Position cylinder heads on cylinder block over cylinder head to block dowels.

CAUTION: Always use new cylinder head bolts when installing cylinder head or damage to engine may occur.

Install new cylinder head retaining bolts:

Tighten retaining bolts in sequence shown to 70-90 Nm (52-66 lb-ft). Then back off bolts 360 degrees.

NOTE: When cylinder head retaining bolts have been tightened as outlined, it is not necessary to retighten the bolts after extended engine operation. However, the bolts can be checked for tightness if desired.

Tighten the cylinder head retaining bolts to: 40-55 Nm (33-41 lb-ft) 85-99 Nm (63-73 lb-ft)

Install lower intake manifold as outlined. Connect engine control sensor wiring to the engine coolant temperature sensor and to the water temperature indicator sender unit.

Dip each push rod end in Engine Assembly .Install push rods in their original position.

Install rocker arms, rocker arm seats and retaining bolts.Tighten bolts to 7-15 Nm (5-11 lb-ft).

CAUTION: Rocker arm seats must be fully seated in cylinder head and push rods must be seated in rocker arm and valve tappet sockets prior to final tightening.

Final tighten retaining bolts to 26-38 Nm (19-28 lb-ft).

NOTE: If the original valve train components are being installed, a valve clearance check is not required. If a component has been replaced, perform a valve clearance check.

Lubricate all rocker arms with Engine Assembly Lubricant.

Install lower intake manifold as outlined.

Install spark plugs if removed.

Position valve covers on the cylinder heads and install retaining bolts. Note the location of ignition wire retainer stud bolts.

Connect engine control sensor wiring to fuel injectors and valve cover stud bolts.

Install upper intake manifold and intake manifold upper gasket.

Install ignition coil and bracket assembly. Tighten retaining bolts to 40-55 Nm (29-41 lb-ft).

Connect ignition wires to the spark plugs and ignition wire separators (12297) to valve cover retaining stud bolts.

Connect intake air temperature sensor (IAT sensor), throttle position sensor, idle air control valve and EGR backpressure transducer or EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connectors.

If LH (front) cylinder head was removed, perform the following:

Install or rotate oil level indicator tube to exhaust manifold retaining stud bolt. Tighten nut to 16-20 Nm (12-15 lb-ft). Install power steering support bracket and power steering pump assembly. Tighten retaining bolt to 40-55 Nm (29-41 lb-ft). Install drive belt tensioner.

If RH (rear) cylinder head was removed install intake manifold support.

Install generator. Tighten long retaining bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) and short bolt to 37 Nm (27 lb-ft).

Install the drive belt.

Connect fuel lines as outlined.

Install fuel line safety clips.

Connect upper radiator hose and heater water hoses. Tighten clamps securely.

Connect vacuum lines to premarked locations.

CAUTION: Engine coolant is corrosive to all engine bearing material. Replace engine oil after removal of a coolant carrying component to help prevent future failure.

Drain and change engine oil.

Install air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body and engine air cleaner (ACL).

Install crankcase ventilation hose to valve cover.

CAUTION: This engine has aluminum components and requires a special corrosion inhibiting coolant to avoid cooling system damage.

Fill and bleed engine cooling system.

Connect battery ground cable.

Start engine and check for coolant, fuel, oil, vacuum and exhaust leaks.

Check, and if necessary, adjust the accelerator cable and speed control

The cheapest way is to do the job yourself. These cars were known to have gasket failures. A lot of times the gasket would allow coolant to leak into the oil. If your dipstick looks like a milkshake, chances are you have done some damage to bearings in the engine. You might not hear anything until a few months later.

As far as stopleak or dropping an egg into rad, I cant see any cheap way to do this job. The problem is you are trying to seal combustion chamber pressures from the cooling system, and visa versa. hope this helps...…..

I had good results from 2 small containers of alumaseal from discount auto supply.

I had this problem. I tried bars leak 3 times, didn't work. Did the head job, and then the oil pump died. We were told the bars leak probably did it. Also Bars leak killed the thermostat, had to replace it (but since the headgasket blew, change it anyway). It can also damage the heater coil.

No cheap way. The head set gasket set is 55 out the door, and the Haynes repair manual is 15. If you want JUST the head gasket (not a good idea) they're 17.00.

The one other thing is the bolts are Torque to Yield, you need to spend the 30 bucks extra for new head bolts. Also, you need RTV gasket maker too.

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

If you haven't already done one, I wouldn't recommend it, but if you insist, get a manual on the subject, remove everything that's in the way, pull the rocker cover, disconnect the timing chain (you might want to check the timing marks and turn the engine to TDC), remove the head and take it to a machine shop. It doesn't matter what it looks like, the head is almost certainly warped if the head gasket has blown. TAKE IT TO A MACHINE SHOP ANYWAY. WHen you put it back together with the new head gasket, torque the head according to the sequence specified in the manual. Then put everything back in reverse sequence. But like I said before, if you haven't already done one, get someone else to do it for you.

My father used this website when he removed the door panel for his 1999 Expedition. He doesn't have any factory shop manuals so this was helpful. kwmuth.com

-James

I know this is a lot of info, but it very detailed and makes no mistakes! The Weenie!

Make sure the window is completely shut. Remove the 'sail' panel at the top front edge of the door. First pry the top out towards you, then lift it straight up. Remove the Phillips screw behind it. Remove the door handle trim. To do this pull the handle out and hold it while prying the trim piece on the speaker side, then lift and rotate it to reveal a 5/16" bolt behind it. Remove the 5/16" bolt to remove the handle. Set it aside. Pry up, also speaker end first, the power window and door lock switch panel. Unplug the three connectors and set it aside. Remove the Phillips screw now visible through the switch panel opening in the panel . Pry off the courtesy light lens using indent along the bottom edge. Remove the Phillips screw in the reflector well. Lift the door panel straight up and off. If it does not lift off easily you missed something. Reach under the top edge and unplug the power mirror connector. Reach down and remove the courtesy bulb socket. 1/4 turn anti-clockwise. Put the door panel aside. Remove the four 1/4" bolts holding the speaker. Unplug the connector to the speaker and set the speaker aside. Using your or your mates hair dryer apply heat to the stuck-on insulation layer and peel back enough at the top left corner of the door (about a foot). Heating the adhesive allows it to come off more readily and will help control accidental tearing. Peel back just enough to expose the door handle mechanism. (Use the dryer again when reassembling). Remove the two 3/8" nuts and push the door handle out along the bottom edge first. From outside the door observe how the C-clip is installed around the key cylinder in the handle and the position of the key cylinder arm. Remove the clip and the key cylinder should slide off. Leave it on the push rod for now. Twist the door handle around to release the hook shaped door latch push rod. Remove the key cylinder from the key lock push rod. Install the key cylinder in the new handle/keypad. Reinstall the C-clip. Thread the 8-wire bundle through the handle opening and through to the inside. You will fish it along the door later. Hook the keypad handle onto the hook shaped pushrod. Seat it in place, top edge goes in first, and fasten it with the two 3/8" nuts. Connect the key lock push rod by snapping it onto the key cylinder arm. Fish the wire bundle back through and along the outer wall of the door and out the speaker opening (temporary). Pull straight down below the handle towards the reinforcing bar that is spot welded to the sheet metal. Using a nylon wire tie, tie it to the reinforcing bar immediately below the handle. This will keep it away from the window travel path. Put another nylon tie about halfway along the door length. A third tie will be installed later. __________________________________________________

Door Panels

Removal & Installation

1. Remove the sail panel (Front Doors Only). (Triangle looking shape near the side view mirror)

2. Remove the door panel by carefully lifting the panel upward to release the retaining clips.

3. Remove the electrical plugs that control the windows, exc.

The installation is the reverse of the removal.