geo formd like babby

hi, the geo prizm was made by Toyota and gm.

REFER TO THIS FOR MORE INFO

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Prizm

hi, the geo prizm was made by Toyota and gm.

REFER TO THIS FOR MORE INFO

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Prizm

Remove number one spark plug and squirt some motor oil into the cylinder. Now do another compression test. If the compression goes up considerably in number one cylinder you probably have bad/worn or cracked piston rings. If the compression doesn't change much you probably have burned or bent valves.

I really don't understand the question. But I did have the problem where the handbrake was not fully releasing on a 1994 Geo Prizm. (I think the brake light stayed on). In order to solve this had to clean the rear drun brakes of brake-pad dust and buildup.

1. Set the car in gear and put wheel chocks on the tires to keep the car stationary.

2. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear tires.

3. Jack up the car. Put a kack stand under the car to be safe.

4. Remove the rear tire.

5. Place wet newspaper underneath the brake drun to collect any dust which falls when you remove the brake drum.

6. Remove the brake drum. The hand-brake was to be released at this step.

7. Don't blow on the exposed brake pads! Use brake cleaner to remove dust. Also clean out the brake drum.

8. Replace the brake drum

9. Replace the tire and put the lug nuts on finger tight/light torque. Don't try to tighten at this stage.

10. Lower the car and torque to spec (80 ft-lbs).

My daughter has replaced all the interior door handles on her 1998 Chevy Prism. We purchased new handles from a local dealer and she was able to install them herself by carefully removing the handle and reversing the process to install the new unit. However, she needs to replace an exterior door handle and we can't figure out how to start with this one.

I bought one from Ebay and uninstalled the previous one by removing the screw at the center, sliding the whole thing towards the steering wheel, prying it out a bit (at the side farthest from the steering wheel), popping out the "wire" that pulls the door opening mechanism from the plastic clip, and then prying the whole thing all the way. The wire is L shaped and goes through the yellow part (or white) first then continues to where the yellow parts meets the rest of the handle. To install, first pop the wire in, then push the whole thing in, then slide it back away from the steering wheel. Screw it in to secure.

I would start by checking and cleaning the battery cables.Might be something as easy as that. Also I would try hooking up jumpper cables to the connections under the hood. this would elimanate the battery and all cables from under the rear seat. If it starts fine with jumpper cables trace it backward to fine bad cable. now the bad news,if none of this helps it is most likely a bad start solinoid witch is mounted on top of the starter. More bad news the starter is under the intake manifold.This is a a job to remove the manifold and injectors and wiring to get to the starter.Hopefully the lose or dirt battery cables fixes the problem. Good luck, hope this helps, Ben Parker, San Jose, Ca.

difference between ordinary prism and constant deviation prism

It's inside the gas tank. Remove your back seat cushion and you should be able to access it through there. Of course you'll have to remove the plate covering it. If you put in a new one, make sure you get the strainer too. And change the fuel filter under the hood.

I just bought the instrument cluster out of one with the tach in it out of a junkyard. All of the wiring plugs are identical. Just a couple of screws to remove and three plugs on the back of it. 93 to 97 should be the same.

You need a special strut spring compression tool. Very very difficult to do it by yourself, unless you have this tool. Getting the struts off is not too hard, putting the new strut in is the hard part.

because the water causes the temperature to be lower

Either one are both good parts so it really does not matter. Go with the lowest priced.

The AC comp should have a bolt(s) to loosen that will release tension & maybe addit'l idlers. Do that, slip off belt, put new 1 on, pry against the belt with a crowbar & tighten bolt.

Most of gm's toyota/geo motors tend to burn oil after about 60,000 miles. Not much you can do about it except keep filling the oil up, or have the valve seals replaced in the motor=$$$$$$

I really don't agree with your answer. I've got a 93 Prizm with 123,000 miles on it and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. A friend has a 97 Metro with a 1.3 in it and it has 222,000 miles on it. Up until a couple of weeks ago when it blew the crank seal, it didn't use any oil either. This person could possibly have a clogged PCV valve or hose causing it to suck oil back through the intake system and burning it. Is the back of the car covered in a kind of black, greasy type looking film? If so, check that PCV system. A bad EGR valve could also be guilty.

Well, alot of car tend to burn oil when they get alot of miles on them, but 60k seems alittle early=you're screwed

New Input: Same problem with a 1999 prizm. Changed the PCV valve and added Lucas Oil Treatment. Since it cleared up immediately, I assume it was the PCV.

Just my 2 cents. I have 150k on my 94 Prizm and I don't burn any noticeable amount of oil. I change it about every 4 to 5k and that's it.

geo prizom 1995

it just pulls right off. It may take a little effort since rust due to the age of the car.

same way you change any other tire just take off lug nuts and take off tire you might have to kick tire pretty hard so be careful not to knock the car off your jack trust me it is hard to get up off the ground

How you would use a wet-bulb thermoter and a dry-bulb theremometer to fine the relative humidity?

My 1990 geo gets 29-31 mpg. My odometer reads 280'000+ but Idont know how correct that is. I have a '91 that gets 35-36 mpg on the freeway and it's an automatic.

GEo is such as acid plants. You can find them in a river